Hyundai 2023 SmartStream 1.6T-GDI Excessively Frequent Recommended OCI?
- Thread starter AJW001
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5w/30 conventional oil is recommended as is 7,500 mile intervals.
No turbo. Good luck with your Hyundai. We have received good service from ours.
I have a 2021 Kia K5 with the 1.6 GDI. My manual recommends 0W20 at between 5000 and 8000 km. I use 0W20 or 5W20 in the winter and 5W30 in the summer. Both at 6000 km intervals. I used this same strategy with my 2011 Kia Optima with the dreaded 2.4 GDI and never had a broblem with it. I mostly use Penzoil but will buy whatever is on sale.
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Did the use of a higher weight oil impact your gas mileage in any way?
No, not at all
On this note, I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the past 10 years without looking at others in my old ST. I haven't been following the tech lately; but I like PUP in that it's a true synthetic (gas-to-liquid). I'm sure it's appropriate for use in the smartstream 1.6T. But are there any others that would be even better?
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- Jul 11, 2014
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Nothing is better or worse. Its for you to decide on 'marketing' for whatever spec you want for you HyundaiKia product. There is no best oil.
Weather permitting, I'd go as thick as possible. Maybe consider a 5w30 synthetic and go from there.
The higher GDI PSI will reduce soot buildup. I didn't know that Hyundai stepped up to 350bar already. And, GDI pressure doesn't determine compression ratio.
I would not exceed the recommend oil and filter change interval no matter how fancy the oil marketing is.
Delphi claims that its industry-first 350-bar system reduces the size and number of particulates by up to 70 percent and that its forthcoming 500-bar system betters the former by a further 50 percent.
The Delphi Difference
Our industry-first 350 bar pressure OE technology reduces emissions and improves fuel economy
https://www.borgwarner.com/technologies/highlight/500-bar-gdi-system
https://www.delphiautoparts.com/usa/en-US/product/gasoline-direct-injection
Weather permitting, I'd go as thick as possible. Maybe consider a 5w30 synthetic and go from there.
The higher GDI PSI will reduce soot buildup. I didn't know that Hyundai stepped up to 350bar already. And, GDI pressure doesn't determine compression ratio.
I would not exceed the recommend oil and filter change interval no matter how fancy the oil marketing is.
Delphi claims that its industry-first 350-bar system reduces the size and number of particulates by up to 70 percent and that its forthcoming 500-bar system betters the former by a further 50 percent.
The Delphi Difference
Our industry-first 350 bar pressure OE technology reduces emissions and improves fuel economy
https://www.borgwarner.com/technologies/highlight/500-bar-gdi-system
https://www.delphiautoparts.com/usa/en-US/product/gasoline-direct-injection
It's a Hyundai. You have 8 injectors with that motor, so no issues with carboned up ports/valves for you. I am a short tripper and am tuned, I dump at 5,500 km or 3,500 miles. I would never run a Hyundai/Kia on 0-5W-20 oil.I never worried about what oil they wanted me to run as any I put in my car was always better then what they speced, and they don't deny warranty on oil viscosity. Every dealer mechanic I have talked to said they check that was enough oil/ it doesn't smell like gear oil, it is on the clean side, and it is not red/ATF, if they are dealing with a blown motor. I run C3 speced oils and after running Redline Performance ACEA C3 5w-30 Euro for years, they price me out of the market in the last 2 years. I am now running Motul 8100 X-Clean Gen 2 5W-40 Mid SAPS. I run a modified Kona AWD, see the link in my signature.
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Hyundai/Kia 3.3 V6 is a completely different animal than their 4 cylinders. They are not comparable AT ALL when it comes to most things and certainly oil. The V6 is a relatively simple motor that is put in configurations were it is not stressed, and as a result is known to be fairly solid. Their 4cylinders are mediocre designs with tunes that push them to the limit to compete in power/economy with other makes, and as a result are very hard on everything including the oil, for various cascading reasons.
I get it. When I did a UOA on my old ST, now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I got good numbers and results because I generally don't spend a whole lot of time in a boosted state especially in city traffic which is 80% of the time. It was easy to avoid boost on the ST by simply accelerating smoothly and anticipating traffic. But being a 2.0T, the larger displacement meant it had an easier time doing a smooth acceleration without needing boost.
On the Kona N-Line 1.6T, however, they way it's set up it seems like it spends any and all of its acceleration time in a boosted state. This explains why I seem to have a hard time modulating a smooth take-off from 1st gear in manual mode now that I think about it. If this is the case, then I can see how the 1.6T can be harder on engine oil, than even my previous 2.0T Focus ST.
My first UOA in 4 months will prove or disprove my hypothesis; we'll see.
On the Kona N-Line 1.6T, however, they way it's set up it seems like it spends any and all of its acceleration time in a boosted state. This explains why I seem to have a hard time modulating a smooth take-off from 1st gear in manual mode now that I think about it. If this is the case, then I can see how the 1.6T can be harder on engine oil, than even my previous 2.0T Focus ST.
My first UOA in 4 months will prove or disprove my hypothesis; we'll see.
GDI + Turbo = 4,000 ~ 5,000 miles max OCI .
Be sure to account for the severe duty schedule, I don’t know the 1.6’s but the “normal” OCI recommendations are slashed to 3,000 and 3,750 miles for the infamous HyunKia 2.0-T and 2.4 duo respectively. (at least in GDI guise)
Ok, I ran 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 and 0w-40 in both my Kias in sig over last 9 years of ownership and while 10w-30 Castrol gave the quietest engine from very start my late go to 0w-30 Euro LX (Pennzoil or QS) gave me the smoothest and very quiet (after short warm up) engine. I ran Pennzoil, Supertech, Kirkland, Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline full synth and semi synth oils in those 9 years. The longest OCI was 8k km and shortest was 3.5k km. I settled on 6k km OCIs on both 1.8 MPI and 2.4 GDI engines thou. I also change oil if hit 150hrs of engine running time.
If you are at at any form of a mildly heavy foot you will get 13 psi to 17.5 psi boost with anything but Grandpa driving.You get full boost at 1,400 rpm. You really can't go by your first UOA other then seeing if they put the motor together correctly, seeing if over the top higher then normal metals are happening. You should judge your engine UOA's starting at 8,000 to 10,000 mile mark to be judging.
Is your 1.8L still original? Our 2013 1.8L Elantra GT tanked at 14,000 miles, and needed a new motor.
Both are originals, Forte has 153k km (95k mi) and Sportage has 137k km (85k mi) on them.
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