(HPL) Oil recommendations on a new engine design - '24 Mazda CX-90 I-6 Turbo

[Pablo]

Seems like MAYBE you could get away with a non-API oil (I would use an API for a year or two/20K) but sliding up on the viscosity, that's on you.

I am not lecturing you, or telling you not to use HPL, but just letting you know. I personally decided to go 0W-30 on both our 0W-20 engines, so it would be pretty hypocritical to do so.

That said it would be ridiculous if Mazda claimed 0W-30 did harm. That would be on them.

Your call man.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

HPL No VII Euro 5W-30 would be a solid choice.

Or 10w20 No VII even PCEO.

 

[cammyfive79]

Seems like MAYBE you could get away with a non-API oil (I would use an API for a year or two/20K) but sliding up on the viscosity, that's on you.

I am not lecturing you, or telling you not to use HPL, but just letting you know. I personally decided to go 0W-30 on both our 0W-20 engines, so it would be pretty hypocritical to do so.

That said it would be ridiculous if Mazda claimed 0W-30 did harm. That would be on them.

Your call man.

I feel I have some leeway working for the dealer group and, in my experience, Mazda Service is not a super stickler on stuff like this (certifications, etc). They would be more concerned about an OCI outside of the "max" according to them of 7500 miles even though the owners manual says you can go a max of 1 year or 10k miles. I do know that 99.999999% of oil changes we do here are with our Mobil Super Syn bulk oil of either 0w20 or 5W30.

@Pablo I may DM you here in a bit with some thoughts.

 

[tcp71]

Looks like a 5w30 API SM/SN/SP is fully acceptable.

 

[VTECOverRated]

25$ jugs of valvoline or castrol or mobil at walmart 5w30 and cheapest filter you can find.
You should not be doing 10k mile OCI's anyways so cheapest and most often = best.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Amsoil SSO 0W30

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I mentioned in another post that we traded our '21 CX-9 for a new '24 CX-90 about a week ago. We went with the standard output 280hp inline 6 turbo. As this is a brand new engine and 8 speed transmission Per the owners manual, the USA/Canada recommendation is 0W20 API and Mexico/other countries is 5W30 API.

Being a brand new engine, I'm thinking a UOA at 5 when the initial factory fill is drained is in order to check levels of fuel dilution or any unique characteristics I'm a fan of HPL for a variety of reasons so my first instinct is to go with their (in my mind) flagship oil - Euro No VII 5W30. However, after doing some more reading I could run their @OVERKILL OW20 that that gentleman spec'ed.

As we less than 200 miles in the first week or so of ownership this is more of a thought experiment than urgent matter. I work for the dealer group so I've also thought about running the Mazda brand 0W20 GF-5 with Moly as we have it in stock and I could spec it during the first OCI at a reasonable price.

Thoughts?

Mazda doesn't recommend API SN+ as a minimum. This tells me they're currently not concerned about LSPI. I would probably run an API SP 5w30 in Euro flavor. Obviously HPL is a boutique oil but IMO unless you're doing long drains one is not realizing a benefit as mundane products will likely perform just as well on a 5k/oci.

The engine is so new we're just guessing as to how it will wear and how hard it is on oil.

 

[Titan]

I'm a fan of inline 6's, and might buy one of these in a couple of years. Wish they put it in a smaller vehicle than the CX-90. Otherwise, it's BMW for an inline 6 I guess...

 

[dnewton3]

The OP hasn't mentioned his planned OCIs, but I suspect it will be at or less than the OEM IOLM limits.

If HPL is the brand of choice, then I'd get the PCEO basic product. It is way more than capable for anything the engine will need, and save money over the other upper tier HPL choices. Sticking to the OE OCIs would never bring any differential out between the HPL choices.

Honestly, if the OE OCIs are the plan, then I think HPL is overkill and a waste of money, as any decent SP syn with a good Noack score would suffice well. But if the OP is dead set on HPL products, then at least reduce the waste by choosing the lowest cost HPL lube.

 

[cammyfive79]

The OP hasn't mentioned his planned OCIs, but I suspect it will be at or less than the OEM IOLM limits.

If HPL is the brand of choice, then I'd get the PCEO basic product. It is way more than capable for anything the engine will need, and save money over the other upper tier HPL choices. Sticking to the OE OCIs would never bring any differential out between the HPL choices.

Honestly, if the OE OCIs are the plan, then I think HPL is overkill and a waste of money, as any decent SP syn with a good Noack score would suffice well. But if the OP is dead set on HPL products, then at least reduce the waste by choosing the lowest cost HPL lube.

Indeed. It's been hard for me to shake the notion that the priciest elixir on the market is X times better than a competitor when I'm not doing long OCIs. As you alluded, I'll be doing the severe schedule according to Mazda of 6 months/5000 miles like clock work. I had assumed that with all of the talk of HPL No VII that it was a silver bullet against the problems of fuel dilution and build up with its top tier cleaning powers. With my quite short OCIs I'm coming to realize that may be lost on me when I'm changing the fluids so frequently anyway.

This engine does take exactly 6 liters of oil and that not equating to the neat 6 quarts that some brands make you order. Interestingly, Liqui Moly allows you to order in liters so that's a positive. LM, Amsoil OE, Mobil1, etc I'm sure will all work well for me changing every 4-5k miles with a new OEM filter everytime. I have plenty of time to game out these ideas as it will be a few months before the car is ready for its first service!

 

[Propflux01]

How does the engine feel when driving? Smooth? powerful? Average?

 

[cammyfive79]

How does the engine feel when driving? Smooth? powerful? Average?

We got the 'standard output' 280hp version and are pleased with it. Power builds very linearly like an inline 6 should; we haven't pushed it really since we have around 200 miles on it now. Makes a nice sound and fuel economy is super impressive so far - 25mpg in my mix of urban and rural commute of about 9 miles one way. Car&Driver tested the high output 340hp version and got 29mpg at a steady 75mph highway loop.

 

[Pablo]

We got the 'standard output' 280hp version and are pleased with it. Power builds very linearly like an inline 6 should; we haven't pushed it really since we have around 200 miles on it now. Makes a nice sound and fuel economy is super impressive so far - 25mpg in my mix of urban and rural commute of about 9 miles one way. Car&Driver tested the high output 340hp version and got 29mpg at a steady 75mph highway loop.

What is the price people are paying for the 340HP version?

 

[cammyfive79]

What is the price people are paying for the 340HP version?

Turbo S starts around $53k MSRP and go up to a hair under $62K if you go with the Premium Plus trim - nappa leather, fabric or suede dash, cooled 2nd row seats, 21" wheels, maxed out with options. Surprisingly, we've seen fairly good demand for that top trim. The car itself in base form starts in the very low $40s. Our Preferred Plus package - mid level - was $47K but employee pricing coupled with rebates for owning a Mazda already and incentive specials put that in the lower $40s. IMO, it can't be beat at that price range.

 

[FlyPenFly]

Mazda Financial is offering $7,500 off on leasing the PHEV version of the car through the IRA tax credit that can be captured on the car through leasing. Since it’s made in Japan, it’s not eligible for the credit with a normal purchase.

Not completely sure the buyout price will reflect the tax credit off the net cap cost though.

Drove one around a bit, handles really well for a 3 row and the interior design is fantastic, great build quality and materials. A bit less interior space than competitors because of inline 6 but I love love the front end and proportions.

 

[cammyfive79]

Mazda Financial is offering $7,500 off on leasing the PHEV version of the car through the IRA tax credit that can be captured on the car through leasing. Since it’s made in Japan, it’s not eligible for the credit with a normal purchase.

Not completely sure the buyout price will reflect the tax credit off the net cap cost though.

Drove one around a bit, handles really well for a 3 row and the interior design is fantastic, great build quality and materials. A bit less interior space than competitors because of inline 6 but I love love the front end and proportions.

Agree with all of your points. If you are regularly using the 3rd row for 2-3 medium sized folks and up.....it's not the best choice. For us, we consider it a 2 row with a huge trunk for dog crates, suit cases, etc. Honestly, I think many folks are attracted to these mid-size 3 row SUVs for the massive cargo area and comfortable seating for 2 rows with a once or twice a year use of the 3rd row.

 

[TomYoung]

You have a spanking new engine, new to North America in a fresh car. You are not chasing any problem, and you are hearing that the factory fill is an excellent oil. That's what I suggest you go with, or alternatively move to something like PUP or Mobil 1 for future accessibilitytside. If this post stays up long enough, you'll get 50 different opinions on weight, brand, ambient temperature, additives etc. You'll get some vocal advocates (you already have) of boutique oils. Just go with what the manufacture suggests in either of the weights suggested (0W20 in my opinion) and don't try to fight city hall.

 

[cammyfive79]

The OP hasn't mentioned his planned OCIs, but I suspect it will be at or less than the OEM IOLM limits.

If HPL is the brand of choice, then I'd get the PCEO basic product. It is way more than capable for anything the engine will need, and save money over the other upper tier HPL choices. Sticking to the OE OCIs would never bring any differential out between the HPL choices.

Honestly, if the OE OCIs are the plan, then I think HPL is overkill and a waste of money, as any decent SP syn with a good Noack score would suffice well. But if the OP is dead set on HPL products, then at least reduce the waste by choosing the lowest cost HPL lube.

Went this route after a few PMs with Dave @High Performance Lubricants the other day. Went with the "basic" PCO 5W30 per his recommendation. Did some thinking and A LOT of reading here and will work my way up to a max 1 year / 10K miles to stay within new car warranty specs. While they are plenty already, I do plan to do UOAs at a 5k change, 7.5k change, and then finally a 10k change. Will be interesting to see the results on this new engine.

*I did return the M1 I bought at Costco two days before.

 

[2015Corolla]

Went this route after a few PMs with Dave @High Performance Lubricants the other day. Went with the "basic" PCO 5W30 per his recommendation. Did some thinking and A LOT of reading here and will work my way up to a max 1 year / 10K miles to stay within new car warranty specs. While they are plenty already, I do plan to do UOAs at a 5k change, 7.5k change, and then finally a 10k change. Will be interesting to see the results on this new engine.

*I did return the M1 I bought at Costco two days before.

 

[PimTac]

I'm a fan of inline 6's, and might buy one of these in a couple of years. Wish they put it in a smaller vehicle than the CX-90. Otherwise, it's BMW for an inline 6 I guess...

Wait for the CX-70 which should be coming out early next year. It should be similar to the CX60 which is sold in Europe.