How to stop ticking noise?

[Vlaj]

Hey guys. I live in Michigan

Ford Contour, 2.0L, DOHC, VIN 3
165.000 miles

Motorcraft 5W30 Semi-synthetic Oil
Motorcraft FL-400S oil filter
Change oil every 3,000 miles.

The car has never been diagnosed with any problem.
Easy driver.
City driving with lots of stops lights.

My issues:

1. There is a load ticking noise when I first start the car. Then it goes away after the car warms up. Although, if I stop again and turn the car off even for 30 minutes and re-start the car, I still get that bad ticking noise. It sounds like two soup spoon tapping against each other.

A Ford tech suggested I add Lucas Oil Stabilizer to the oil.

I did some research online and came across this site talking about not using Lucas Oil Stabilizer because it foams up.

Can you recommnend what to add to the oil to help with that noise?

In addition, I just started noticing oil in my drive way. I guess I been lucky for the past 155,000 miles since my car never leaked any oil.

I think it may be the rear main seal. Don't want to pay $1,000 at this time to repair it. The car is payed off and I can't afford another car at this time.

Any suggestions what to do about the leak other than repairing it? I thought about Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair although, once again, I don't want to add anything untill I get feedback on here.

Thanks!

Vlaj

 

[Gary Allan]

You didn't mention the year ..but I went with 2000 as the last year I could find for a Contour.

The ticking seems visc related since it retreats with longer running. As a test, I'd use a 5w-20 for the next oil change. Your engine is approved for this weight:

5W-20 approved for this application per Ford TSB 02-1-9

Most likely you have some restricted arteries supplying some things. The seal leak will probably be from the same deposit formation.

I wouldn't use the seal sweller stuff until all else fails.

I don't like solvent adds/flushes to correct these conditions, but that may be a remedy to explore. I prefer to use Auto-Rx for these types of conditions.

You may try high mileage oils for the seal leak. I think that they're more productive as a preventative measure and/or where the seal issue is in the realm of weepage or seepage, not leakage.

 

[willix]

Its possible a valve shim has worn clearence beyond spec. some of these shims can flake off the hard coating and cause lobe wear. They can just get a couple of .001's out of spec. and be noisey Thats a lot of miles and I think ford intened the shims to be checked at 60,000mi and again at 120,000. In the real world no one does this because they dealer charges plenty for this service. I know some of the ford V6's have a cost of close to $1500 for the 60.000mi maintenance.

 

[ZZman]

Auto-Rx might help leak.

A heavier weight oil might quiet it down.

Rotella T6 5w-40 is good stuff.

 

[Kaboomba]

I agree with G.A. A cleanout cycle is in order, to make sure that oil is going where it should, when it should.

After 165K you will probably now have SOME clatter that persists.

K

 

[rclint]

The cheapest, safest, and best route in my opinion is a high mileage oil. I prefer Valvoline HighMileage, however many here rave about Mobil 1 high mileage... Take your pick Also give it 3 OCI's to give your verdict as this route will not be an instant fix... nothing will be an instant fix unless you replace the rear main on the leak. The tick could be anything, if it goes away as you say it's nothing I would worry about.I have hard engines do that, one was pulled down for a head gasket issue, no problems with anything worn, maybe engines just get a little ticky in the early morn till they get warmed up... On this issue the high mileage oil may help, or a 5w-20 as previously stated may help.... I would try the high mileage first to see if you can get rid of the leak/fix seal killing two bird with one stone.

 

[hominid7]

Sounds like dirty/gumed up HLA's to me.

I would start by changing the oil and using something cheap, like walmart supertech, and adding a 1/2 bottle of risoline (an entire bottle at once may be a little too much of a shock). I'd run that for 100-200 miles and then change the oil again, using the other 1/2 bottle of risoline and inexpensive oil, run for 500 miles, and change the oil again, back to your motorcraft.

Thicker oil may be counter-productive in this particular situation.

I like the other posters idea of trying MC 5w20 and seeing what that does as well, although with an exisitng leak, it may make it worse. Then again, the risoline may make the leak worse as well. If you dont mind putting a little $$ into the car, getting the leak fixed with new seals would be ideal.

 

[Vlaj]

Thanks for the replay.

It is a 1999 Contour.

Many of you are suggesting a heavier oil although, I am already using MC 5W30 and not 5W20. So you mean 5W40..something like Rotella T6 5W40,as ZZman suggested?

In addition, I have tried Castrol High Mileage GTX 5W30 on my last oil change. No changes, so I went back to MC 5W30.

What is OCI? Is that the Auto-RX thing?

Do I try the Risoline stuff as hominid suggest?

 

[willix]

I'm sticking with checking cam/shim clearences. 165,000mi is along time. FORGet about additives.

 

[willix]

OCI is "oil change interval" and ARX is a cleaniing additive that would be only appropriate for a oil change abused engine.

 

[marcre]

I'd go with a Seafoam treatment and see how that does. It cleared up a similar noise for me on an Isuzu Rodeo before.

 

[splacek]

Sounds like an exhaust leak, possibly a manifold leak, to me. I had the same issue in my 2000 Landcruiser - both exhaust manifolds were cracked. So it may not be the oil at all.

After driving for awhile the heat swells the hairline crack and the noise dissipates...after it sits and "cools" - the noise is back.

Repairing the exhaust manifolds in my LC was expensive - but parts were at or around $600 of that bill, had use OEM.

 

[Gary Allan]

Good alternative, splacek. That could explain the short time line to the reemergence of the noise. Normally a noise like this only occurs after a prolonged cool down, not 30 minutes.


...and

to you too!

 

[Vlaj]

I just had the car checked. He said for sure the rear main seal is leaking and would not be worth the investment to repair it. Although, he could for $800-1,000.

He also suggested a heavier oil..10W40. And not use MC since it has synthetic properties to it.

So it doesn't look like any additive would help me on this issue. Perhaps I just use the thicker oil 10w40

 

[countryboy9799]

Gary,

How come you recommend autorx and not the amsoil engine flush? Just wondering because I just bought a couple of amsoil's engine flush.

 

[Vlaj]

Now I have to deal with the leak issue.

If I use Auto-Rx, couldn't that make the leak worse? That's what I was told by the auto shop today. That if the seals have sludge on them, they are preventing leaks. And if you use a engine cleaner and remove the sludge, the leak worsen or you create new ones..like head gasket, etc?

 

[Vlaj]

Has anyone heard about this before?

 

[splacek]

Thankx Gary...I have a ways to go b/f I near your no. of posts!

B/F BITOG I was using Fram filters and whatever 5w30 I could get my hands on...now I'm using Purolator PureOne oversized and Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic...don't know if there's a difference, but it's fun nonetheless! I joined IH8MUD the same time as here...both great sites, IMO.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: countryboy9799
Gary,

How come you recommend autorx and not the amsoil engine flush? Just wondering because I just bought a couple of amsoil's engine flush.


Well, now that they have a new product specifically for sludge, I'll have to (just got the email Hotwire). Normally anyone requiring Auto-Rx would not normally be an Amsoil customer. I like Auto-Rx. It's been extremely effective for me in a number of my vehicles. It's not for everyone.

How could I tell someone to wait 6000 miles to start using Amsoil products? I would sorta consider it an added service to those who may want to assure that any residuals are removed before the first fill with Amsoil (Amsoil's engine flush).

In the OP's case, he's also got a seal leak. The Amsoil product will not do anything for that condition. Auto-Rx might if the leak is due to a distorted seal due to deposits.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: Vlaj
Now I have to deal with the leak issue.

If I use Auto-Rx, couldn't that make the leak worse? That's what I was told by the auto shop today. That if the seals have sludge on them, they are preventing leaks. And if you use a engine cleaner and remove the sludge, the leak worsen or you create new ones..like head gasket, etc?


Sure, temporarily. It can't fix a damaged seal. If it's fouled by dirt, it will clean the dirt. This can make it leak worse until the seal relaxes to its form shape. If it's just torn or cut ..it's going to leak.

No head gasket leak. Gaskets can leak if there's dirt plugging tears/holes/gaps.