How to stop ticking noise?

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You already have a leak. Ditto what Gary says above. Also, best oil for leaks and consumption I have found is Maxlife, which is high mileage Valvoline. Price is right when on sale or everyday at Wal-mart.
 
Before you go to too much trouble...make sure that all of your spark plugs are tight. A loose spark plug can induce a loud ticking noise like you are talking about. Then once the engine warms up the metal expands and "tightens" the plug making the noise go away.
Another possibility is a bad plug wire (if this car has wires instead of coil packs).

Just a thought...this is a lot easier than changing manifolds and putting in all kinds of additives that you may not need.
 
And I was about to ask which oil to use? I see techguy suggests Maxlife High Mileage Valvoline although, Auto-Rx states not to use any synthetic or high mileage oils.

Therefore, which brand oil and weight should I use?

I will still use the MC 400S oil filter
 
If you're using Auto-Rx, just go with the cheapest conventional you can find in your spec. If you're not, and just want to see if you can lessen your drippage, go with a high mileage oil.
 
Is Auto-Rx only available online?

Also, I was thinking of using the heavier oil for the summer.

It calls for 5W30. I could do 5W40 or 10W40.
 
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Gary. For my purpose, which Auto-Rx Application(s) sould I follow?

Basic Application
Fast Track Application
Sludge Application
Seal Leak Application
 
In my experience, a lot of city driving with cold starting has led to ticking on a couple cars over years. A good long highway run was a cure, and I did use Rislone once and it helped. Especially living in Michigan, driving city, the engine is prone to deposits. You have taken good care and use a good oil. I would stick with the oil, or go to 5-20 as suggested. The seal is unpleasant, maybe try one of the conditioners, or shop for a better price on repairs. It is the time in a car's life though when repairs could well be followed by more repairs on and on. My 2 cents.
 
I been using what it calls for 5w30 although, since I have he oil leak, should I use the 5w40 or 10w40 in summer weather?

Or is my enhine not capable to run a heavier oil and may not cool the engine?
 
You can run 40w oil no problem. There are people on here that run 50w oil with no issues.

There are some cars that might be affected by that heavy of a weight oil due to their designs but yours will be fine. Your engine has loosened up over time/miles.

**Either 5w-40 or 10w-40 will work in the summer. If it stretches into winter the 5w would be a better choice.
 
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Vlaj,

From time to time I have this same condition in my 01' Dodge Durango. I have been told the condition is created or can be solved by trying another brand of oil filter although I use the OEM filters from the dealership. Since it's a weekender vehicle I make sure it's taken out on the freeway every week to get the oil hot and circulate throughout the inside of the engine.

My guess is that our oil filters anti-drain back valve is malfunctioning allowing all the oil to drain back into the pan.
The issue of you switching over to a heavier oil isn't necessary so perhaps you can look into the possibilty that it's just the filter.

Durango
 
Hey Durango.

I only been using the OEM Motorcraft (FL-400-S) oil filter. Of course, they changed the filter and number on this not too long ago. I never did get the answer why.
 
I was under the impression ticking on cold-starts was from oil starvation, metal against metal sort of deal...? Wouldn't a thicker oil make it longer for the oil to go where it needs to go?

Originally Posted By: marcre
I'd go with a Seafoam treatment and see how that does. It cleared up a similar noise for me on an Isuzu Rodeo before.
This seems like a good idea, measure out 1.5 oz. of Seafoam for each quart of oil in your crankcase, and run that in the crankcase for a day or two, keep a light foot, just to let it circulate, then go get your oil changed (go cheap, like generic supertech or whatever). Note: the can says it can be safely used in the oil for 3,000 miles, but to "monitor" the oil for darkness at each fill-up, and to change before the 3k if you notice the dip stick getting darker.

Also, I've read previously on these forums some "filters" are more susceptible to this noise on cold starts...I think I recall a post by a person who was using a Supertech filter at one time, so you could also experiment with different filters too, well, different brand anyways.

I had, what I think was a similar issue in my Rio, and Seafoam fixed it after the first day. the second morning the noise under the hood was gone, and I then went in for the oil change (probably 50 miles with the seafoam in the crankcase).
 
I found that a 0w30 oil has quietened the noisy tappets (lifters) in my 150,000 mile Mitsi Galant.

Also, it starts better, runs smoother and slightly better fuel consumption.

However, not sure how the oil leak might react.
 
Vlaj, the Motorcraft oil filter is a fine filter and has helped reduce startup noise in some engines. As a test, you COULD try another filter just to see if it makes any difference.

While using Auto-Rx, stay away from synthetic or high mileage oils. As another poster has suggested, Castrol GTX is a fine oil to use during Auto-Rx treatments. Actually any on-sale non-synthetic would work fine for this use. You can go to a High Mileage oil AFTER you are done with the clean and rinse cycles. I have done this when dealing with startup lifter ticks and small oil leaks/seepage and it has helped to solve both problems.
 
Vlaj,

I'm only guessing it can be yor oil filter as other thread/posting have indicated it's only one of many possibilities.

If that doesn't help then try another brand of oil. I've used Quaker State "Q" before and have had good results in the same weight the factory specifies.

In your cae IF your mechanic tried another brand of oil filter THEN you can rule out my guess although I still feel it's the anti-drain back valve in the filter itself.

IF it is oil starvation then maybe you need a good engine flushing maybe in order OR a combination of everything mentioned.

Keep trying dude we'll help you cure it.

Durango
 
Keep us posted if you figure it out, we have the same problem with the Daewoo I maintain. I've tried different oils/filters and nothing has helped. It makes a ticking noise at between 3,800-4,000 RPMs and is non-existent at higher or lower RPMs than that. Does have some cold piston slap but when warm, it's silent.
 
So, should I also try the 1.5 oz. of Seafoam for each quart of oil first since I have to wait to order the AutoRx anyways?
 
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