Best oil and oil additive for a Silverado 5.3 lifter tick?

[blue07silvy]

2007 Silverado 5.3 has 123,431 miles just developed a louder lifter tick. It was always noticeable on cold starts in cold weather but went away once it warmed up. Weather is warmer and the tick is noticeable even after driving a long period of time.
I've heard to not use additives and also to use additives. I'm not brave enough to do the One quart of transmission fluid and five quarts of oil.
Ive faithfully used Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter.
I was told to change to a different brand but have no clue what that would be. 10+ Years ago I did the Amzoil thing and wasn't impressed.
Just trying to delay engine replacement or repair.
ANY SUGGESTIONS would be appreciated.

 

[jetman]

 

[facility1]

try Royal Purple HMX 5w-30 and the same filter would be fine. or Valvoline R&P 5w-30,

 

[Passport1]

I'm not a fan of additives either. Had an old 300SE Mercedes long ago and it developed noisy lifters also. Tossed in a quart of Rislone next oc with the same oil as before, Pennzoil I believe and within 100 miles the tick was gone. Coincidence? Maybe. Haven't used it since.

 

[kschachn]

I thought the tick was a mechanical or materials defect?

 

[jhellwig]

Fix it now or pay more later. A lifter most likely collapsed unless it is the classic version of truck. Oil, additives or oil regimen does not fix it.

If you keep driving with it ticking it will destroy the cam. Just the lifters and oil manifold can be replaced if it is caught early enough.

 

[blue07silvy]

I thought the tick was a mechanical or materials defect?

It's both. With GM's famous AFM cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 lifters can fail but a tick doesn't mean it's one of those specific lifters. I just can't afford to pay $2k-$6k for a AFM/DOD Delete or engine rebuild.

 

[blue07silvy]

Fix it now or pay more later. A lifter most likely collapsed unless it is the classic version of truck. Oil, additives or oil regimen does not fix it.

If you keep driving with it ticking it will destroy the cam. Just the lifters and oil manifold can be replaced if it is caught early enough.

I don't like to do a job half way. If I have to remove the heads I mights as well go all the way. If it fails I thought about doing a AFM/DOD delete or just replace the engine. I know I have a 5.3 but I'm trying to find out if I can install a 4.8 as they didn't have AFM

 

[OVERKILL]

If this is an AFM engine, you may have lost a lifter. There isn't an oil on the planet that is going to fix that.

Now, it could also be an exhaust leak, have you checked the manifolds?

 

[blue07silvy]

If this is an AFM engine, you may have lost a lifter. There isn't an oil on the planet that is going to fix that.

Now, it could also be an exhaust leak, have you checked the manifolds?

Yes. It will go away most of the time and I know it's ready to go south soon. Just trying to baby the thing until I get more money saved up. I called around and I'm trying to find out if I can install a 4.8 without AFM and what I'd need. I know it will have to be tuned or reprogrammed but I just don't see fixing something half way. If the top half is going bad the lower half will most likely follow

 

[OVERKILL]

Yes. It will go away most of the time and I know it's ready to go south soon. Just trying to baby the thing until I get more money saved up. I called around and I'm trying to find out if I can install a 4.8 without AFM and what I'd need. I know it will have to be tuned or reprogrammed but I just don't see fixing something half way. If the top half is going bad the lower half will most likely follow

I asked about exhaust because that's exactly how a broken stud(s) or cracked manifold behaves. Noisy when cold, eventually getting quiet. Of course they eventually get bad enough that it doesn't go away.

Not sure how frequent manifold failures are on these trucks, but they are the most common source of noise on the HEMI's, which is why I asked. It would certainly be better than having to do a cam and lifters or a new engine.

 

[blue07silvy]

I asked about exhaust because that's exactly how a broken stud(s) or cracked manifold behaves. Noisy when cold, eventually getting quiet. Of course they eventually get bad enough that it doesn't go away.

Not sure how frequent manifold failures are on these trucks, but they are the most common source of noise on the HEMI's, which is why I asked. It would certainly be better than having to do a cam and lifters or a new engine.

I apologize. I misread your reply and forgot to tell you I have headers and none of the bolts are broke or anything cracked. I actually put them own a while back when i did have a broken manifold bolt. Told them to just send it to the shop and do headers with true duals on it.
Another guy said to try Lucas oil stabilizer but it calls for 1 quart and 4 quarts of oil 20% so with a 6 quart oi pan I figured I'd need to add 1.5 quarts. PIA in my opinion

 

[OVERKILL]

I apologize. I misread your reply and forgot to tell you I have headers and none of the bolts are broke or anything cracked. I actually put them own a while back when i did have a broken manifold bolt. Told them to just send it to the shop and do headers with true duals on it.
Another guy said to try Lucas oil stabilizer but it calls for 1 quart and 4 quarts of oil 20% so with a 6 quart oi pan I figured I'd need to add 1.5 quarts. PIA in my opinion

Lucas is nothing but the worst Group I bright stock and a ton of VII polymer, avoid it at all costs.

You should hunt around the headers and check to make sure the gasket hasn't blown out, I had that happen on my Mustang. I'd want to be 100% sure it's not exhaust before I condemn the motor

 

[blue07silvy]

I apologize. I misread your reply and forgot to tell you I have headers and none of the bolts are broke or anything cracked. I actually put them own a while back when i did have a broken manifold bolt. Told them to just send it to the shop and do headers with true duals on it. I had to put some quiet mufflers on it due to the drone and loudness. I'm going deaf and the drone sound was annoying

Lucas is nothing but the worst Group I bright stock and a ton of VII polymer, avoid it at all costs.

You should hunt around the headers and check to make sure the gasket hasn't blown out, I had that happen on my Mustang. I'd want to be 100% sure it's not exhaust before I condemn the motor

Engine is super clean and if a gasket was leaking you'd know because I painted the lower half of the block grey before they installed the headers. Exhaust would show black where it's leaking and the only thing I can see is red where I dropped some P/S fluid on it.
I thought about that Valvoline Restore and Protect but I'm sure it's no better than Mobil 1 5w30 that I've used forever.

 

[clinebarger]

Yes. It will go away most of the time and I know it's ready to go south soon. Just trying to baby the thing until I get more money saved up. I called around and I'm trying to find out if I can install a 4.8 without AFM and what I'd need. I know it will have to be tuned or reprogrammed but I just don't see fixing something half way. If the top half is going bad the lower half will most likely follow

Depends on if your 5.3L is flex fuel or not....If you have a LY5 5.3L....A LY2 4.8L swap is as simple as a calibration change via HP Tuners or EFI Live.

If you have a LMG Flex 5.3L....You will lose the ability to run E85 without a custom tune.

 

[blue07silvy]

Depends on if your 5.3L is flex fuel or not....If you have a LY5 5.3L....A LY2 4.8L swap is as simple as a calibration change via HP Tuners or EFI Live.

If you have a LMG Flex 5.3L....You will lose the ability to run E85 without a custom tune.

LY5 No VVT or Flex Fuel

 

[kschachn]

Lucas is nothing but the worst Group I bright stock and a ton of VII polymer, avoid it at all costs.

You should hunt around the headers and check to make sure the gasket hasn't blown out, I had that happen on my Mustang. I'd want to be 100% sure it's not exhaust before I condemn the motor

Rather than being completely sure of everything, this is good advice.

 

[4WD]

LY5 No VVT or Flex Fuel

Is the AFM active - or a Range disabler plugged in?

 

[blue07silvy]

Is the AFM active - or a Range disabler plugged in?

AFM is active. I removed the Range device because it started making my transmission act up. Once I unplugged it it was fine.

 

[blue07silvy]

Rather than being completely sure of everything, this is good advice.

I have no choice but to be sure because I’ve been under the hood of my truck for days checking everything.