Almost never. When smog check times comes, I might try an Italian tune-up though.
How often do you redline your cars?
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I put er down to pass,but it rarely gets to the red line. 5000rpm for sure though.
I hit redline on the GP once every few weeks while getting on the freeway. The only time I've done it on the Burb was when I was coasting downhill in neutral and resumed the cruise control before putting it back in drive, but I don't think that's what we are talking about here. I'm a bit afraid of redlining the Burb because it seems to work so hard just to get to 3,500 rpm...forget 6,000!
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
I hit redline on the GP once every few weeks while getting on the freeway. The only time I've done it on the Burb was when I was coasting downhill in neutral and resumed the cruise control before putting it back in drive, but I don't think that's what we are talking about here. I'm a bit afraid of redlining the Burb because it seems to work so hard just to get to 3,500 rpm...forget 6,000!
The intake has long runners for torque and the engine will run out of air by 4000rpm tops.
Don't need that kind of rpm anyways. They make enough torque down low they don't need to spin.
I hit redline on the GP once every few weeks while getting on the freeway. The only time I've done it on the Burb was when I was coasting downhill in neutral and resumed the cruise control before putting it back in drive, but I don't think that's what we are talking about here. I'm a bit afraid of redlining the Burb because it seems to work so hard just to get to 3,500 rpm...forget 6,000!
The intake has long runners for torque and the engine will run out of air by 4000rpm tops.
Don't need that kind of rpm anyways. They make enough torque down low they don't need to spin.
Once every 10 years. Over 200,000 on two cars. Redline is not necessary. Does your manual recommend you redline?
Depends on my mood, but a minimum of once a week. Sometimes 2-3 times in one trip. lol
Mustang... Every time I hit the throttle. Fusion... Every week or so when I take the highway to go geocache in jonesboro.
Bare minimum would be 14x/week but in reality probably closer to 30x/week. Last full-size SUV I owned since new was treated that way for all 200,000+ milies and it never let me down. 315,000+ miles on a mid-sized SUV of which we put 215,000+ miles and that saw similar redline 'treatment'. If the engine can't handle it, bye-bye I'm off to another manufacturer w/ my money.
If it reaches operating temp, the KLZE V6 will see 8K virtually every time. The G6 with the LX9 3500, Ford OHC 4.0L rarely as necessary, but they're not made to rev. Sister's 325i every time I drive it, because that'll be the only time it gets a blast.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: wsar10
As a young dumb kid probably quite a bit with 5spd's.....
now as an adult NEVER there is simply no reason to, I prefer to not abuse my stuff and take care of it. I cant remember the last time any of my vehicles have seen anything over 3K RPM.
The grungiest, most sludged-up engines I've seen are those that weren't beat on.
Yet some of the cleanest engines I've seen were raced, run hard....etc. And they still were able to accrue very high mileage.
It isn't abuse if the oil and coolant are up to temp. It is using the product as designed. A properly designed engine can take full advantage of its entire RPM range without detriment to its longevity and it helps keep things clean inside.
As a young dumb kid probably quite a bit with 5spd's.....
now as an adult NEVER there is simply no reason to, I prefer to not abuse my stuff and take care of it. I cant remember the last time any of my vehicles have seen anything over 3K RPM.
The grungiest, most sludged-up engines I've seen are those that weren't beat on.
Yet some of the cleanest engines I've seen were raced, run hard....etc. And they still were able to accrue very high mileage.
It isn't abuse if the oil and coolant are up to temp. It is using the product as designed. A properly designed engine can take full advantage of its entire RPM range without detriment to its longevity and it helps keep things clean inside.
My cars are stick shifts. I pretty much swing the needle past the redline on my WRX and GTI every time I'm in the right situation. First at a stop light on a 55 MPH 2 lane road.. . I think there's a big difference in reliability redlining an antiqued OHV engine vs a modern OHC one.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: skyactiv
My cars are stick shifts. I pretty much swing the needle past the redline on my WRX and GTI every time I'm in the right situation. First at a stop light on a 55 MPH 2 lane road.. . I think there's a big difference in reliability redlining an antiqued OHV engine vs a modern OHC one.
You'd be surprised. I've seen MANY high mileage 302HO's that have had the living tar beat out of them their entire life (I own one with 338,000Km on it that makes ~100HP more than stock) that have suffered no lack of durability when used in this manner.
Then think of the number of Ford/Chevy/Dodge 1/2 3/4 1-ton trucks and vans with the snot driven out of them by people who don't own them so they don't care.
And the LSx engines are the modern evolution of these and have proven to be durable workhorses and incredibly mod-friendly.
My cars are stick shifts. I pretty much swing the needle past the redline on my WRX and GTI every time I'm in the right situation. First at a stop light on a 55 MPH 2 lane road.. . I think there's a big difference in reliability redlining an antiqued OHV engine vs a modern OHC one.
You'd be surprised. I've seen MANY high mileage 302HO's that have had the living tar beat out of them their entire life (I own one with 338,000Km on it that makes ~100HP more than stock) that have suffered no lack of durability when used in this manner.
Then think of the number of Ford/Chevy/Dodge 1/2 3/4 1-ton trucks and vans with the snot driven out of them by people who don't own them so they don't care.
And the LSx engines are the modern evolution of these and have proven to be durable workhorses and incredibly mod-friendly.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: wsar10
As a young dumb kid probably quite a bit with 5spd's.....
now as an adult NEVER there is simply no reason to, I prefer to not abuse my stuff and take care of it. I cant remember the last time any of my vehicles have seen anything over 3K RPM.
The grungiest, most sludged-up engines I've seen are those that weren't beat on.
Yet some of the cleanest engines I've seen were raced, run hard....etc. And they still were able to accrue very high mileage.
It isn't abuse if the oil and coolant are up to temp. It is using the product as designed. A properly designed engine can take full advantage of its entire RPM range without detriment to its longevity and it helps keep things clean inside.
Not very often. Once a week or so when the new car with a 7K redline was a novelty. As we all know from the cinema classic 'Redline 7000' exceeding redlne by even a couple hundred RPM can cause your car to seize up and flip over the railing, killing yoou.
Originally Posted By: wsar10
As a young dumb kid probably quite a bit with 5spd's.....
now as an adult NEVER there is simply no reason to, I prefer to not abuse my stuff and take care of it. I cant remember the last time any of my vehicles have seen anything over 3K RPM.
The grungiest, most sludged-up engines I've seen are those that weren't beat on.
Yet some of the cleanest engines I've seen were raced, run hard....etc. And they still were able to accrue very high mileage.
It isn't abuse if the oil and coolant are up to temp. It is using the product as designed. A properly designed engine can take full advantage of its entire RPM range without detriment to its longevity and it helps keep things clean inside.
Not very often. Once a week or so when the new car with a 7K redline was a novelty. As we all know from the cinema classic 'Redline 7000' exceeding redlne by even a couple hundred RPM can cause your car to seize up and flip over the railing, killing yoou.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: wsar10
So your claiming not beating the [censored] out of a motor causes sludge......
Not every engine is designed to be a high rev engine PERIOD.
I would rather not thin out the "cushion" of oil between rotating assembly's if at all possible.
"you're" or "you are". The word "claiming" doesn't belong to me
But yes, not getting the oil up to temperature (driving like a granny doesn't help that) does in fact potentially lead to sludge and varnish formation. Letting an engine stretch its legs cleans carbon off the valves and piston tops, cleans out the exhaust, makes sure the rings are free....etc. Oil flow is at its highest too.
The redline on a tach is not some arbitrary "insanely high" number. Different car/engine combinations have different redlines because the redline is usually shortly before the fuel cut-off and not far past peak horsepower.
The redline on a vehicle's tach is set, often with an automatic, as the WOT shift point (or very close to it), because it is just after peak HP, which lands you smack dab in the middle of the power band on a WOT-upshift.
What the actual VALUE of the redline is depends entirely on engine design and the power band for that design. My M5 has a 7,000RPM redline, the Expedition redlines at 5,000RPM. They are both similar displacement (5.0L and 5.4L) engines but have very different power curves. The M5 doesn't make peak HP until 6,800RPM. The Expedition makes it ~4,500RPM.
Engines are designed to live long and healthy lives when operated within their designed RPM ranges. That means from idle to fuel cut-off. A modern engine won't over-rev unless you are driving a manual and fubar a downshift. The fuel cut-off is designed to prevent you from rev'ing past the safe operating range of the engine.
So your claiming not beating the [censored] out of a motor causes sludge......
Not every engine is designed to be a high rev engine PERIOD.
I would rather not thin out the "cushion" of oil between rotating assembly's if at all possible.
"you're" or "you are". The word "claiming" doesn't belong to me
But yes, not getting the oil up to temperature (driving like a granny doesn't help that) does in fact potentially lead to sludge and varnish formation. Letting an engine stretch its legs cleans carbon off the valves and piston tops, cleans out the exhaust, makes sure the rings are free....etc. Oil flow is at its highest too.
The redline on a tach is not some arbitrary "insanely high" number. Different car/engine combinations have different redlines because the redline is usually shortly before the fuel cut-off and not far past peak horsepower.
The redline on a vehicle's tach is set, often with an automatic, as the WOT shift point (or very close to it), because it is just after peak HP, which lands you smack dab in the middle of the power band on a WOT-upshift.
What the actual VALUE of the redline is depends entirely on engine design and the power band for that design. My M5 has a 7,000RPM redline, the Expedition redlines at 5,000RPM. They are both similar displacement (5.0L and 5.4L) engines but have very different power curves. The M5 doesn't make peak HP until 6,800RPM. The Expedition makes it ~4,500RPM.
Engines are designed to live long and healthy lives when operated within their designed RPM ranges. That means from idle to fuel cut-off. A modern engine won't over-rev unless you are driving a manual and fubar a downshift. The fuel cut-off is designed to prevent you from rev'ing past the safe operating range of the engine.
Originally Posted By: wsar10
So your claiming not beating the [censored] out of a motor causes sludge......
Not every engine is designed to be a high rev engine PERIOD.
I would rather not thin out the "cushion" of oil between rotating assembly's if at all possible.
If you don't want to thin that cushion I suggest not starting the car. You are aware that oil has a very wide operating range,and that cushion isn't compromised til oil temps exceed 300f.
And a warmed up engine actually sees little to no wear once the engines temps have stabilized regardless of the thickness of that cushion you describe.
It really doesn't matter how thick that cushion is as long as its there,so whether the oil temp is 180f or 260f film thickness is irrelevant as long as it exists.
And did you even read overkill's post before writing yours. He said that you'd be surprised at how durable an engine can be and how some engines that have been beaten are clean inside.
Think about it. High oil temps emulsify deposits,think hot water cleaning laundry. And elevated oil pressure would help cleaning,think pressure washer.
And engines have fuel cut off for a reason. Its set well below an engines damage point and driving a properly warmed engine,using the entire rpm range will do no harm whatsoever.
Pegging the fuel cut off on a cold engine may do some ring and cylinder damage but driving an engine within its designed rpm range does no more damage than driving it light footed,if properly warmed up.
The Cadillac northstar engine was a gem that was killed by old people never revving it past 2500rpm. An engine needs that heat,elevated oil pressure and air velocity to keep deposits from forming.
Driving any engine(except diesel) like a slug will cause sludge and deposits.
Every engine I've seen that was driven hard was clean inside. Most engines I've seen that never saw 3500rpm had deposit formations and were sluggish running.
Ever seen an r1 with sludge,or any sport bike for that matter,when using the proper grade of oil.
So your claiming not beating the [censored] out of a motor causes sludge......
Not every engine is designed to be a high rev engine PERIOD.
I would rather not thin out the "cushion" of oil between rotating assembly's if at all possible.
If you don't want to thin that cushion I suggest not starting the car. You are aware that oil has a very wide operating range,and that cushion isn't compromised til oil temps exceed 300f.
And a warmed up engine actually sees little to no wear once the engines temps have stabilized regardless of the thickness of that cushion you describe.
It really doesn't matter how thick that cushion is as long as its there,so whether the oil temp is 180f or 260f film thickness is irrelevant as long as it exists.
And did you even read overkill's post before writing yours. He said that you'd be surprised at how durable an engine can be and how some engines that have been beaten are clean inside.
Think about it. High oil temps emulsify deposits,think hot water cleaning laundry. And elevated oil pressure would help cleaning,think pressure washer.
And engines have fuel cut off for a reason. Its set well below an engines damage point and driving a properly warmed engine,using the entire rpm range will do no harm whatsoever.
Pegging the fuel cut off on a cold engine may do some ring and cylinder damage but driving an engine within its designed rpm range does no more damage than driving it light footed,if properly warmed up.
The Cadillac northstar engine was a gem that was killed by old people never revving it past 2500rpm. An engine needs that heat,elevated oil pressure and air velocity to keep deposits from forming.
Driving any engine(except diesel) like a slug will cause sludge and deposits.
Every engine I've seen that was driven hard was clean inside. Most engines I've seen that never saw 3500rpm had deposit formations and were sluggish running.
Ever seen an r1 with sludge,or any sport bike for that matter,when using the proper grade of oil.
Once a week or so. The 1.4T has no power much above 5500, though. But it does make a glorious noise, especially when the cam phasing is adjusted for peak power.
Never? I might have accidently done so in the Prelude once when I was having an "issue" with another driver.
I don't think the Mustang has ever been over 5000 rpm
I don't think the Mustang has ever been over 5000 rpm
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