Home Theater Receiver Power Ratings

I think I am going to purchase (when available) a Yamaha RX-A6A, with 150wpc into 2 speakers. It's not enough for me, and possibly I'll use one of those modern Class D 2 channel 500wpc amps on the front 2 speakers. My current Yamaha is 125wpc.



I don't know what you are running for mains, or how loud you like to listen to things, but I have the RX-A3060 which is very similar output capability, and it plays MORE than loud enough. If you have a dedicated sub, and highpass your mains at something reasonable, I doubt you will be wanting more power than that receiver can provide, especially in stereo listening.
 
I got my old Denon hooked up, running two fronts, a center channel, and my powered sub. I was able to connect my TV to the Denon via an optical cable. I am running it in 3.1 Pro Logic II, which is an older sound format. It sounds indescribably better than the sound bar did, with music or movies. The only thing I wasn't able to do was program my Dish Network remote to operate the Denon. Apparently the Denon is too old and the codes don't work with the newer Dish remote, so I programmed all of my devices into the Logitech remote. Works great!
 
....Logitech remote. Works great!
Just curious which Logitech remoter your are using. I'm still using a 650 but since they don't make them any longer I'm not using it all the time, just to turn everything on/off. The Directv remote works pretty good but of course it won't control my Yamaha or Samsung.
 
Just curious which Logitech remoter your are using. I'm still using a 650 but since they don't make them any longer I'm not using it all the time, just to turn everything on/off. The Directv remote works pretty good but of course it won't control my Yamaha or Samsung.
I have the 600...
 
I thought I'd bump this thread, as my current Yamaha may have just given up the Ghost. We've had a bad Neutral at the power pole and tons of power problems last month.

I've not looked at Receiver options lately, I do want power. My speakers are Polk RTi A9's, Polk surrounds and Sub is a Sunfire 12" 1200W. I've been very pleased with my current Yamaha 125wpc old receiver, although I would say the Polk's probably need 400W worth of power to really rock.

In the post above I mentioned a Yamaha Rx A6A:
Any other high power suggestions?


Not my pic, this is exactly what I have for speakers:
The woofers are large than 6.5 inches and smaller than 8 inches. They are not bass heavy speakers, although I've heard that more power really helps with that. My current Yamaha can't get the woofers to move more than a token bit.
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If you really want to know the output of an amplifier, look and see how much wattage it is drawing from the wall outlet at full output. It will say on the back panel. IF it is above 1500 watts you have a good solid amp with lots of reserve "peak instant power"

For instance my bedroom receiver is rated at 80 watt per channel across the full bandwidth at 8 ohms, the 4 ohm rating is 100 watts per channel at full bandwidth. It draws about 500 watts from the wall outlet at full output.

My Carver M-500t power amp on my main system is rated at about 250 wpc at 8 ohms across the full bandwidth. 330 wpc at 4 ohms. It draws 1875 watts from the wall outlet. at full output. Folks with Magnepan speakers refer to power output as current sometimes, as their resistance rarely varies from the constant 4 ohms they present to a amplifier.
 
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These guys build killer audio equipment, amps and speakers (though 5 to 10 years ago they were struggling a bit with their video processors). Their mono amps can make tons of clean power that can dip down to 4 or even 2 ohms without issues, able to drive very demanding speakers.

They're a direct to consumer seller, very open and honest/transparent with how they rate their stuff, the ceo/engineers are active on the forum and love discussions (both their products and others). I have had some of their stuff now for over 10 years and 0 regrets.

 
If you really want to know the output of an amplifier, look and see how much wattage it is drawing from the wall outlet at full output. It will say on the back panel. IF it is above 1500 watts you have a good solid amp with lots of reserve "peak instant power"

For instance my bedroom receiver is rated at 80 watt per channel across the full bandwidth at 8 ohms, the 4 ohm rating is 100 watts per channel at full bandwidth. It draws about 500 watts from the wall outlet at full output.

My Carver M-500t power amp on my main system is rated at about 250 wpc at 8 ohms across the full bandwidth. 330 wpc at 4 ohms. It draws 1875 watts from the wall outlet. at full output. Folks with Magnepan speakers refer to power output as current sometimes, as their resistance rarely varies from the constant 4 ohms they present to a amplifier.
Nice, I am sure you go just as crazy as me hearing those who dont know better talking up the power ratings of any type of amp they just bought. This wild insane power ratings based on a single 1khz frequency (tone). Today's public has no clue about true power ratings over bandwidth nor do they understand the amount of current an amp can deliver is most important.

Ohhhh, how I remember that Carver name so well :) I used to read EVERY audio publication every month or every two months depending which one before the internet was here sanitizing everything... till nothing was left.
 
Speakers are low impedance and the load is quite reactive in the bass and at crossover points.

Steady state wattage ratings at 1khz aren't worth much as they don't reflect actual usage.

anyway, playing LOUD, your average midrange wattage will be just 5 to 10 watts**.

You need massive current dumping capabilty into low impedance loads, i.e. 3 - 6 ohms.
power doubling capability from 8 to 4 to 2 (e.g: 75/150/300W) at 20 hz would be a good indicator of an adequate power supply.

Many amps - especially receivers have current limiting resistors on the output transistors.

You really need a well designed separate power amp to make a multi woofer tower sing.
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** typ med-high eff 89db @1w 1m
 
As much as I'd like to do components, mama has to be able to just turn it on and have it work.
You can buy a receiver and have it trigger the power amp that uses the pre-amp outs, that's how I have my living room setup. My Denon AVR-X4200W runs the centre channel, that's it, the sub is run by a dedicated amp on a trigger, and my mains are powered by a Bryston 4B also on a trigger. Receiver comes on, both aux amps turn on, receiver goes off, they both go off.
 
These guys build killer audio equipment, amps and speakers (though 5 to 10 years ago they were struggling a bit with their video processors). Their mono amps can make tons of clean power that can dip down to 4 or even 2 ohms without issues, able to drive very demanding speakers.

They're a direct to consumer seller, very open and honest/transparent with how they rate their stuff, the ceo/engineers are active on the forum and love discussions (both their products and others). I have had some of their stuff now for over 10 years and 0 regrets.

About 7 years ago I purchased one of their fully analog path preamps, to feed my Carver amp. Very flexible and has been bulletproof. All kinds of inputs and a lovely built in Moving Coil input that matches my Audio Technica ART9 cartridge perfectly. . If you want something, call them and negotiate the price. I received 15% off by calling and not having to wait for Black Friday promo.

Steve Gutenberg the "Audiophiliac" loves their amps anytime I see him review one. I would consider one in the future.
 
These guys build killer audio equipment, amps and speakers (though 5 to 10 years ago they were struggling a bit with their video processors). Their mono amps can make tons of clean power that can dip down to 4 or even 2 ohms without issues, able to drive very demanding speakers.

They're a direct to consumer seller, very open and honest/transparent with how they rate their stuff, the ceo/engineers are active on the forum and love discussions (both their products and others). I have had some of their stuff now for over 10 years and 0 regrets.

I have one of their amps in my PC setup. I like it fine, although it does take about 5 minutes to warm up - sounds distorted until then. I guess Emotiva didn't bother to include temperature compensation.

Some of their amps don't measure as well as amps from other companies, but they do provide gobs of power:
 
Nice, I am sure you go just as crazy as me hearing those who dont know better talking up the power ratings of any type of amp they just bought. This wild insane power ratings based on a single 1khz frequency (tone). Today's public has no clue about true power ratings over bandwidth nor do they understand the amount of current an amp can deliver is most important.

Ohhhh, how I remember that Carver name so well :) I used to read EVERY audio publication every month or every two months depending which one before the internet was here sanitizing everything... till nothing was left.
Was in the audio business for about 18 years. That ended right at the end of component HiFi's heyday. Gave up trying to make people understand RMS and freq bandwidth. Those who know, know. The other misunderstood thing is "headroom". Love when the Carver is cruzin' at 20 watts or so on the meters, and a big bass drop or orchestra strings and tympany kick in big time send the meter to about 150-200 for just a instant. Clean peak power keeps the music open and transparent. IMO
 
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I have one of their amps in my PC setup. I like it fine, although it does take about 5 minutes to warm up - sounds distorted until then. I guess Emotiva didn't bother to include temperature compensation.

Some of their amps don't measure as well as amps from other companies, but they do provide gobs of power:
I assume they cap the price on stuff they test? I didn't see McIntosh or Bryston in the list.
 
I love me some good audio...

I run a Denon X3700H receiver for my home theater (currently a 7.1 system, planning to bump up to at least a 7.2 by spring time with an additional PB-3000 subwoofer once I get a new couch... Eventually a 7.2.2 or 7.2.4 with overheads when I get around to it).

I run SVS loudspeakers all-around with a PB-3000 sub. The tactile response and sound effects with the system are next-level!

And I disagree with a previous poster, rear speakers are amazing if the movie was sound mixed properly. Having it sound like somebody knocking at a door behind you, or a vehicle or sound effect in a horror movie... It's a very cool effect. There have been times where me and the other half get 'tricked' thinking it was not the movie, that somebody was at our front door or in the other room. It's very convincing...

It's not as drastic as going from a 3.1 to a 5.1 for example, but it's still worthwhile IMO.

I also run a system at my computer for music, as it doubles as my 'entertainment room'. So I run a Denon X1600H with two SVS Prime Pinnacle towers and dual PB-2000 Pro's as my computer speakers... Love it.
 
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Was in the audio business for about 18 years. That ended right at the end of component HiFi's heyday. Gave up trying to make people understand RMS and freq bandwidth. Those who know, know. The other misunderstood thing is "headroom". Love when the Carver is cruzin' at 20 watts or so on the meters, and a big bass drop or orchestra strings and tympany kick in big time send the meter to about 150-200 for just a instant. Clean peak power keeps the music open and transparent. IMO
Way back then, during the time of Audio Review and Stereo Review magazines I had one of the more original NAD power amps with the massive headroom. I knew the Carver name VERY well for those same qualities.
GOD those were the days, I feel old saying that but todays culture is happy with "good enough" and I guess that is ok but I REALLY MISS the higher end audio stores and looking at the equipment. Everything is so generic today. Gosh even the brands back then, the names that survived have been folded into corporations in name only.

This was the AMP I had, some years later I also bought a Onkyo straight power amp.


I know some in here have McIntosh equipment and know that really was and most likely still is the world standard. I also used to admire Bryston too, oh heck there were so many awesome companies out there at the time. I was younger then and well, price did matter.

(I hint I ran into the corroded relay issue but moved onto a Onkyo straight amp years later when it happened rather than repair it)
But wow, that NAD powered some really good parties *LOL*

Now? I have a JVC soundbar, how sad :cry: and most music is through my Bose headphones or earbuds and if that isnt bad enough, bluetooth ones at that.

DO you know some of my favorite speakers was a small Boston Acoustics A40 but I was in an apartment at the time. Once in the house the NAD fried them and moved to Mission speakers (forgot the model) they could handle the power but if I remember correctly wasnt crazy about the sound, which then I moved onto Paradigm, I had and used those Paradigms for over two decades (maybe 3) which ultimately were the front left and right channel of a home entertainment system and just got rid of them last Nov when we moved. . Most my life, was budget audiophile stuff but in todays world it doesnt exist anymore or maybe it does and I just lost interest.
 
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