High quality 5W40 for BMW

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Ohkay....
According to BITOG, i should use a Diesel Truck Oil in a gasoline Car or even Motorcyle, wich is O.K. Dont care about the approvals.
But...
Using a High-performance Gasoline Racing oil designed for cars in a car on the street is a no-no. Because it dont carry approvals.
Have i understand it?

My car suffers from cam chain wear. The chain lenghts, then the cam chain tensioner can´t hold tension, and you have a rattling noise.
There was a poll amongst the members in the german forum.
The only two guys wich dont had problems used the Motul 300 V Racing oil for cars, with the extra load of Moly. And the had more milege on the cars as avergae, to. All others used over the shelf oils, PAO, with a lot of approvals, even the porsche A40.
Seems like the oil with the better additive pack protects better, no matter wiche approvals it carrys. Coincidence?

And, the last thing:
If i use a 10w-40 high quality PAO oil in a car wich is driven hard, High RPM, heat, Piston speed and
If i use a 0w-40 high quality PAO oil in a car wich is driven hard, High RPM, heat, Piston speed.
Could it be that the 10w- has a little edge in Protection because the oil film strenght dont rely on VI Improvers?
That´s what i am talking about here. But it looks like nobody understand me or could answer my question.

And yes, Mobil 1 0w-40 is a outstanding, prooven, high quality oil, no doubt.
Simply put race oils are not blended for the long OCIs.. The difference could be something such as the choice of ester (easily oxidized by water generated by short tripping) and the ability to neutralize acids over time. The choice of VII could be another.

As for your last part about PAO 10w40 vs 0w40. I suppose it's possible but you'd have to know what type of VII's were used in each product. The ability to respond differs with increases in the number of heat cycles.
 
Simply put race oils are not blended for the long OCIs.. The difference could be something such as the choice of ester (easily oxidized by water generated by short tripping) and the ability to neutralize acids over time. The choice of VII could be another.
Good post. Kind of like "used on the Space Shuttle" or "tested by the military", just because it's used by the racing community does not make it automatically better for every application.
 
Good post. Kind of like "used on the Space Shuttle" or "tested by the military", just because it's used by the racing community does not make it automatically better for every application.

....but in contrast reccomending 0w-40 to everyboy, for every application is O.K. beacuse "it is used by racing teams, by Porsche" and so on and on...? "No Matter wich Viscositiy the car manufacturer specs, use 0w-40!" Really?
No technical - scientific sound explanation?

Regarding the use of Racing oil in a street car, i had a conversation with a ROWE technican before i opted for the Rowe racing oil.
He told me the technical requirments or conditions and limitations when i use this oil in a car on the street.
It´s perfectly O.K. in my case.
 
I would use:

-Valvoline 5w40 Euro
-Quaker State Euro 5w40
-Castrol 0w40
-Mobil 1 0w40


In no particular order, they are all great oils and easy to find. I use the above oil in my own BMW and the Euro cars I service, and stick to 5,000 mile intervals. I don't see anything else being a better fit without being more expensive or harder to find.
 
....but in contrast reccomending 0w-40 to everyboy, for every application is O.K. beacuse "it is used by racing teams, by Porsche" and so on and on...? "No Matter wich Viscositiy the car manufacturer specs, use 0w-40!" Really?
No technical - scientific sound explanation?

Regarding the use of Racing oil in a street car, i had a conversation with a ROWE technican before i opted for the Rowe racing oil.
He told me the technical requirments or conditions and limitations when i use this oil in a car on the street.
It´s perfectly O.K. in my case.
That is bunch if malarky, as one guy would say.
Motul specifically discourages racing oils in cars driven on the street or mostly on the street.
So, that statement is either not serious or just brush off: “dude, use whatever you want. Why should I care?”
 
That is bunch if malarky, as one guy would say.
Motul specifically discourages racing oils in cars driven on the street or mostly on the street.
So, that statement is either not serious or just brush off: “dude, use whatever you want. Why should I care?”
Yes - basically you can take a street oil, like M1 0W40 that is often discussed here, and use it on the track but you shouldn't really use a track oil on the street. I believe you wrote that in some form recently in a post and I agree with it. The track oil is better for the track clearly but how much better? No clue. You can run that track oil on the street but wouldn't want to run it for longer OCIs is how understand it.
 
Yes - basically you can take a street oil, like M1 0W40 that is often discussed here, and use it on the track but you shouldn't really use a track oil on the street. I believe you wrote that in some form recently in a post and I agree with it. The track oil is better for the track clearly but how much better? No clue. You can run that track oil on the street but wouldn't want to run it for longer OCIs is how understand it.
Mobil1 also has somewhere instructions to use 0W40 as track oil if the vehicle is in dual use.
I mean, using racing oil 1-2 OCI won't do anything. I used 300V in BMW, and it is my daily. But why if it is hard to find, expensive, and you are not getting the full additive pack necessary for street exploitation? Oils are much more than simple wear. They have to keep the engine clean when they do not reach operating temperatures etc. Racing oils are designed differently. Motul, for example, goes so far as to offer dual-track/street oil precisely for these reasons. But unless the vehicle is a track animal being used in actual races, these oils are really unnecessary.
@jeepman3071 listed easily found oils. They are excellent, cheap, and that is it.
 
Mobil1 also has somewhere instructions to use 0W40 as track oil if the vehicle is in dual use.
I mean, using racing oil 1-2 OCI won't do anything. I used 300V in BMW, and it is my daily. But why if it is hard to find, expensive, and you are not getting the full additive pack necessary for street exploitation? Oils are much more than simple wear. They have to keep the engine clean when they do not reach operating temperatures etc. Racing oils are designed differently. Motul, for example, goes so far as to offer dual-track/street oil precisely for these reasons. But unless the vehicle is a track animal being used in actual races, these oils are really unnecessary.
@jeepman3071 listed easily found oils. They are excellent, cheap, and that is it.
The HPL Euro 5W40 is nice that way - does both just fine but definitely not cheap!
 
Mobil1 also has somewhere instructions to use 0W40 as track oil if the vehicle is in dual use.
Right on the racing section of their website:
Screen Shot 2023-03-04 at 4.50.30 PM.jpg
 
You can run that track oil on the street but wouldn't want to run it for longer OCIs is how understand it.

That was exactly what the ROWE technican told me.
- Change it every year, no matter how much miles you have collected.
- Best to change it every 6000 Kilometers / 4000 Miles.
- It is a modern Additive pack, save for catalyst.

And you are good to go....He told me that the use of this oil is at my own risk of course, but he told me also that he dont see a single problem in my car if i obey this rules. And he told me that he use it also in his own car at the street.
The TBN of this oil is around 9, neverthelss.


I simply dont like this "Rule of Thumb" thinking. Race oil is not Race oil. It is true that there are many race oils out there that maybe cause harm. But i rather pick up the phone and talk to a technican from the oil manufacturer and ask for advice in such uncommon cases, about a really unknown oil.

Flamesuit on, waiting for replys like "He only told it to you because he want to sell his Product!"
 
That was exactly what the ROWE technican told me.
- Change it every year, no matter how much miles you have collected.
- Best to change it every 6000 Kilometers / 4000 Miles.
- It is a modern Additive pack, save for catalyst.

And you are good to go....He told me that the use of this oil is at my own risk of course, but he told me also that he dont see a single problem in my car if i obey this rules. And he told me that he use it also in his own car at the street.
The TBN of this oil is around 9, neverthelss.


I simply dont like this "Rule of Thumb" thinking. Race oil is not Race oil. It is true that there are many race oils out there that maybe cause harm. But i rather pick up the phone and talk to a technican from the oil manufacturer and ask for advice in such uncommon cases, about a really unknown oil.

Flamesuit on, waiting for replys like "He only told it to you because he want to sell his Product!"
And OP should run it because?
 
Off the shelf: PPE 5w40 and QS 5w40 since they do have LL01. Boutique? HPL, Redline or Amsoil.

Change oil after each track event if you do that stuff. If reg driving, change every 4-5000k miles. Use fleece filters from Mann, Hengst or Hummel.

It’s overkill but who cares? Oil is cheap and engines are not. Also keep up to date with trans, diff, transaxle and other fluids. Many often neglect them.

“Consistency is key”. Be consistent in your change intervals and brand won’t even matter.
 
....but in contrast reccomending 0w-40 to everyboy, for every application is O.K. beacuse "it is used by racing teams, by Porsche" and so on and on...? "No Matter wich Viscositiy the car manufacturer specs, use 0w-40!" Really?
No technical - scientific sound explanation?

Regarding the use of Racing oil in a street car, i had a conversation with a ROWE technican before i opted for the Rowe racing oil.
He told me the technical requirments or conditions and limitations when i use this oil in a car on the street.
It´s perfectly O.K. in my case.
While this recommendation appears quite haphazard without knowing the application, it is an extremely safe one. The 0w rating ensures cold start lubrication regardless of temp; the 40 grade viscosity range is sufficient for nearly any current production engine made in North America (of course there is the 5.0 Coyote track pack), and when one chooses a 0w40 with the respective Euro certs they can be reasonably assured that the oil will perform admirably under very demanding circumstances.

Sure, you may lose a little mileage, but I’ll guarantee that over a tank of fuel you’ll lose more mileage stopped at lights than you will from any oil-related losses. The engine will be primed for optimal operation, ensuring not only hydrodynamic lubrication for the sliding/rotating interfaces, but also sufficient HTHS to protect areas like the rings. Toss in the fact that these oils are not subject to severely restricted Ca, Zn, or P, and the choice is clear if one wants great protection in a Walmart-shelf oil.
 
....but in contrast reccomending 0w-40 to everyboy, for every application is O.K. beacuse "it is used by racing teams, by Porsche" and so on and on...? "No Matter wich Viscositiy the car manufacturer specs, use 0w-40!" Really?
No technical - scientific sound explanation?

Regarding the use of Racing oil in a street car, i had a conversation with a ROWE technican before i opted for the Rowe racing oil.
He told me the technical requirments or conditions and limitations when i use this oil ia car on the street.
It´s perfectly O.K. in my case.
Hey @Foxtrot08 do you have some wisdom to share with this gent re: racing oils in street use? He’s willing to trust some unknown wanker on the help line who may or may not know a thing about real world applications and requirements. Maybe some input from an experienced chap like yourself can help his knowledge? 👍🏻
 
Hey @Foxtrot08 do you have some wisdom to share with this gent re: racing oils in street use? He’s willing to trust some unknown wanker on the help line who may or may not know a thing about real world applications and requirements. Maybe some input from an experienced chap like yourself can help his knowledge? 👍🏻

Sorry. Sorta out of it right now, having back surgery. I’ll reply when I can think straight.
 
While this recommendation appears quite haphazard without knowing the application, it is an extremely safe one. The 0w rating ensures cold start lubrication regardless of temp; the 40 grade viscosity range is sufficient for nearly any current production engine made in North America (of course there is the 5.0 Coyote track pack), and when one chooses a 0w40 with the respective Euro certs they can be reasonably assured that the oil will perform admirably under very demanding circumstances.

Sure, you may lose a little mileage, but I’ll guarantee that over a tank of fuel you’ll lose more mileage stopped at lights than you will from any oil-related losses. The engine will be primed for optimal operation, ensuring not only hydrodynamic lubrication for the sliding/rotating interfaces, but also sufficient HTHS to protect areas like the rings. Toss in the fact that these oils are not subject to severely restricted Ca, Zn, or P, and the choice is clear if one wants great protection in a Walmart-shelf oil.

Page 8 in this Thread and we go round and around and around and around....

My question, again, is:
- why are 10w-40 oils reccomended in Motorcycles, engines wich runs hot and with high pistons speeds?
And, by the way, this oils tend to shear down in no time in these engines.
- If 0w-40 is the best oil, why is it not reccomeded for Motorcycles?
- Is a 0w-40, wich have (a lot of) VI Improvers, still god enough when you have a really high reving car engine with a much higher then usuall piston speed?
- Why did the manufacturer of such a Engine reccomend a 10w-30, a (almost) VI Improver free oil?

Basic question: 0w-40, thin Base oil with VI Improver vs. 10w-30 or 10w-40, thick Base oil (Almost) without VI Improver.
Wich oil protects such a very high reving engine with a very high piston speed better when you use the enigne hard?
Could the VI Improvers whitstand the stress in such a Engine?

That is my question. Still waiting for a scientific, reasonable, sound answer.
 
Page 8 in this Thread and we go round and around and around and around....

My question, again, is:
- why are 10w-40 oils reccomended in Motorcycles, engines wich runs hot and with high pistons speeds?
And, by the way, this oils tend to shear down in no time in these engines.
- If 0w-40 is the best oil, why is it not reccomeded for Motorcycles?
The counter was of course that 0W-40's are recommended for ATV's and snowmobiles which have the same or similar engines. Motorcycles aren't operated in temperatures where a 0W-xx makes sense.
- Is a 0w-40, wich have (a lot of) VI Improvers, still god enough when you have a really high reving car engine with a much higher then usuall piston speed?
Does a 0W-40 have higher VII content than a conventional 10W-30? In many instances no, you are making a strawman. I gave you some blending guide examples of this earlier in the thread. The appropriate counter is not "well, oils of the same quality" because there's no stipulation for a synthetic low VII content 10W-30 in that manual.
- Why did the manufacturer of such a Engine reccomend a 10w-30, a (almost) VI Improver free oil?
If this is an S2000, they also recommended a 5W-40, which in many cases will have the same VII content as a 0W-40.
Basic question: 0w-40, thin Base oil with VI Improver vs. 10w-30 or 10w-40, thick Base oil (Almost) without VI Improver.
Another strawman. The manual doesn't stipulate requirements for either of those grades to have little to no VII because there is no standard or approval laid-out in that manual. Per the blending guide examples I showed you, both typically have considerable VII content.
Wich oil protects such a very high reving engine with a very high piston speed better when you use the enigne hard?
The oil that's formally approved for that usage profile? A40 for example, has a Nurburgring lapping test as part of it.
Could the VI Improvers whitstand the stress in such a Engine?
Clearly they do if the oil passes the testing requirements and is able to obtain the approval.
That is my question. Still waiting for a scientific, reasonable, sound answer.
Your question has been answered, many different ways, using many different examples, you just don't like the answer.
 
Page 8 in this Thread and we go round and around and around and around....

My question, again, is:
- why are 10w-40 oils reccomended in Motorcycles, engines wich runs hot and with high pistons speeds?
And, by the way, this oils tend to shear down in no time in these engines.
- If 0w-40 is the best oil, why is it not reccomeded for Motorcycles?
- Is a 0w-40, wich have (a lot of) VI Improvers, still god enough when you have a really high reving car engine with a much higher then usuall piston speed?
- Why did the manufacturer of such a Engine reccomend a 10w-30, a (almost) VI Improver free oil?

Basic question: 0w-40, thin Base oil with VI Improver vs. 10w-30 or 10w-40, thick Base oil (Almost) without VI Improver.
Wich oil protects such a very high reving engine with a very high piston speed better when you use the enigne hard?
Could the VI Improvers whitstand the stress in such a Engine?

That is my question. Still waiting for a scientific, reasonable, sound answer.
If 0W-40 was deficient by design it wouldn’t be the factory fill for Porsches and C8 Corvettes. It’s a dual purpose oil.
 
The counter was of course that 0W-40's are recommended for ATV's and snowmobiles which have the same or similar engines. Motorcycles aren't operated in temperatures where a 0W-xx makes sense.

Does a 0W-40 have higher VII content than a conventional 10W-30? In many instances no, you are making a strawman. I gave you some blending guide examples of this earlier in the thread. The appropriate counter is not "well, oils of the same quality" because there's no stipulation for a synthetic low VII content 10W-30 in that manual.

If this is an S2000, they also recommended a 5W-40, which in many cases will have the same VII content as a 0W-40.

Another strawman. The manual doesn't stipulate requirements for either of those grades to have little to no VII because there is no standard or approval laid-out in that manual. Per the blending guide examples I showed you, both typically have considerable VII content.

The oil that's formally approved for that usage profile? A40 for example, has a Nurburgring lapping test as part of it.

Clearly they do if the oil passes the testing requirements and is able to obtain the approval.

Your question has been answered, many different ways, using many different examples, you just don't like the answer.
Thanks for your Patience and Time.
I dont make a "Strawmen", my Understanding is simply that (Example) 0w-40 / 10w-60 have a lot of VI Improvers, while (Example) 10W-30 or 0W-8 are VI Improver free.
That´s why i am aksing questions, to learn something, to gain knowledge, not to make a "strawmen"!
 
Thanks for your Patience and Time.
I dont make a "Strawmen", my Understanding is simply that (Example) 0w-40 / 10w-60 have a lot of VI Improvers, while (Example) 10W-30 or 0W-8 as are VI Improver free.
That´s why i am aksing questions, to learn something, to gain knowledge, not to make a "strawmen"!
If you look at an oil like the popular 0W40 from M1, I saw more of a viscosity drop over an interval in my car than any other oil I've run. As I understand it and of course...can be wrong...that's due in-part to shearing down related to the VIIs necessary to get that spread. HPL makes a new no VII line but you won't see a 0W40, 5W30 Euro is the closest thing. Also, I run the HPL 5W40 Euro and the VIIs according to them are the highest quality "Star" type and resist that shearing more than others used. So far, my viscosity drops have been more reasonable using this.
 
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