High quality 5W40 for BMW
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Q1. What is the use case here? Daily driving? Track?
Basically any of the commonly-available Euro 5W40s (or 0W40s) will do either. HPL Euro 5W40 is another one on the boutique side you can use...no approvals but isn't an issue here (to me) same with Redline I believe.
Basically any of the commonly-available Euro 5W40s (or 0W40s) will do either. HPL Euro 5W40 is another one on the boutique side you can use...no approvals but isn't an issue here (to me) same with Redline I believe.
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Hplubricants.com is the company website. Advlubrication.com is their retail site; use code BITOG15 to save 15% off your order!
The general opinion? From those who use those products?
Outstanding. Truly outstanding.
You will not find a better oil. Anywhere.
Rotella T6 is great if you want a group III oil with good additives at reasonable cost. If you had a new Ford Powerstroke, it would be my recommendation. But it’s not in the same league as the others being discussed.
In your BMW, if cost is a consideration, M1 0W40.
If you want the very best, HPL.
Also why folks use Rotella, a diesel oil, in a gas engine is beyond me when so many good Euro gasser oils exist.
For the LM...no reason to not use the Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 which has all the approvals vs. the older oils being discussed just to say you have PAO "real" synthetic.
For the LM...no reason to not use the Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 which has all the approvals vs. the older oils being discussed just to say you have PAO "real" synthetic.
OT with the request of the OP but it's amazing that a company employee would actually make a statement. That says something. Of course I can see how it may receive a negative response by individuals who has some grasp of tribology but still don't know what they don't know.
Iirc in BMW track circles it was because it was cheaper than M1 0w40 and had better viscosity retention.
I get your point that Rotella is “technically” a diesel oil, but as Astro pointed out, it is a very good value (but not outstanding like it used to be) that provides great results for the money. Some people likely use it for the fact that diesel oils do not have the ZDDP or other limits on additive %s that API oils do.
Regarding the LM- while I’m not arguing against specs per se, it is kind of hard to push someone to use a spec oil when warranty hasn’t been a concern for nearly a generation (for OP’s vehicle) and there are oils available that FAR surpass any requirement that was even a pipe dream back when the car was originally built.
OP, what’s your intended OCI, and what’s your preferred price target?
Undestand - but to recommend an older oil when a current-gen Euro oil exists approvals or not seems mis-guided just to say I'm not running HC/group 3. Yes, could basically run anything now b/c no warranty concern but approvals do provide a standard of performance that is v. high. I'm sure those older LM oils (synthoil energy 0W40 is the one that is PAO-based as I understand it) will work just fine as well. HPL is certainly something that would work well obviously here but has a high cost and not sure what the OPs use case is or intended drain interval.
Almost.
It is a south german (swabia) slang for the word "Geschmack", wich means Taste. The meaning of this word translate into "It leaves a bitter taste behind.."E.g. a deal wich is legal but questionable neverthelss. Or: A problem is solved, but with a questionable method.
BTT.... i read here at BITOG a very good article why you should not use Diesel oils in Gasoline engines.
My car is a weekend toy, and i use it for very spirted drives. The engine is almost impossible to rebuild and expensive to buy used, if you can find one. I am out of warranty. The engine revs very high. The car is meanwhille in the "Future classic" category.
I opted for a Racing oil, PAO and Ester, and dont care about the cost or specification. Regarding the cost, what can i save? 50 Euros or dollars per year? I dont care in this case. The TBN is around 8, more than enough for the short intervall wich i use this oil.
I would use the Redline or the HPL.
Red Line oil is crazy expensive here in Germany, sadly.
The sticker on the Jug says Made in Germany, Vollsynthetisch, Racing, and it has a piston and rod moulded in it. Hard to beat.
My car is a weekend toy, and i use it for very spirted drives. The engine is almost impossible to rebuild and expensive to buy used, if you can find one. I am out of warranty. The engine revs very high. The car is meanwhille in the "Future classic" category.
I opted for a Racing oil, PAO and Ester, and dont care about the cost or specification. Regarding the cost, what can i save? 50 Euros or dollars per year? I dont care in this case. The TBN is around 8, more than enough for the short intervall wich i use this oil.
I would use the Redline or the HPL.
Red Line oil is crazy expensive here in Germany, sadly.
The sticker on the Jug says Made in Germany, Vollsynthetisch, Racing, and it has a piston and rod moulded in it. Hard to beat.
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If you’re referring to the EngineLabs/MotorTrend article written by Lake Speed Jr, well, let’s just say that a couple of the board experts (formulators and blenders) have chimed in that many of the claims made in that article hold no water. This is from actual industry experts, not the vice president of marketing (as LSJ is). So, it’s not as critical of an indictment on diesel oil use in gas engines as the article would have you believe. Just sayin…
Ya. Too many people place too much emphasis on ZDDP.
Intended OCI is 5-7k miles
Daily driving/normal use?
Weekend street toy primarily, sometimes DD duties
I'd just use whatever OTS xW40 Euro oil w/LL-01 approval then and run it for 5K changes.
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