High Performance Lubricants No VII series engine oils.

hybrids are just like any other vehicle. The engine makes one cold start. I’d think these oils would be advantageous for repeated warm starts. Additionally, the added protection of a robust oil is a great way to extend engine life. Don’t forget there are plenty of hybrids with oil
consumption problems. Which seems to be the way they fail. Why not protect against what’s likely?
Well, we put 157K on a Fusion Hybrid … it did not warm up … You drove a ways out of the neighborhood and out to the freeway on electrical - and when you mashed on it at the loop the 2.0L Atkinson cycle kicked in cold and with a growl … not saying that mattered to the 0W20 Mobil 1 AP - or that the car ever had mechanical issues - but it indeed went straight to load when cold … It never used oil up to when traded …
 
The sad thing is that some BITOGers are going to use these fantastic new products, and yet still OCI every 5k miles .... because it's "cheap insurance". 😖
To those forum members that would do such a thing. I'd like to say that I've been a 6-mo/5,000 mile guy for quite a while, and was using M1 EP during those days. Dave at HPL convinced me that by using his oil, even just the regular PCMO, I could very comfortably double that interval, and he mentioned some situations in which the oil has proven itself. Based on what Dave has put forth, unless you're vehicle is used for the most extreme and severe situations (which, frankly, I cannot imagine), extending the drain interval should be a no-brainer.

You don't need 5,000 mile OCIs, you already bought the insurance by choosing HPL, and compared to so many other oils, it ain't cheap.
 
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I wonder if I can use this oil in my 2020 Equinox 1.5T?
The short answer is sure. The long answer is that even though HPL’s oils will soundly trounce every possible performance metric of the dexos standard, it is not certified. It’s your call, but you could be absolutely certain with any HPL oil you would not have an oil-related failure short of letting the sump run low.

Obviously time will give us the complete data, but based on the formulations and information from Dave, IMO these oils are likely the pinnacle of what engine oils are commercially available to discerning oil snobs like us!
 
To those forum members that would do such a thing. I'd like to say that I've been a 6-mo/5,000 mile guy for quite a while, and was using M1 EP during those days. Dave at HPL convinced me that by using his oil, even just the regular PCMO, I could very comfortably double that interval, and he mentioned some situations in which the oil has proven itself. Based on what Dave has put forth, unless you're vehicle is used for the most extreme and severe situations (which, frankly, I cannot imagine), extending the drain interval should be a no-brainer.

You don't need 5,000 mile OCIs, you already bought the insurance by choosing HPL, and compared to so many other oils, it ain't cheap.
Sure. The point for an average driver in an average vehicle using these high-end "boutique" oils vs. the common OTS oils is to run it for longer drain intervals. But who am I to judge if folks want to do whatever it is they want to do w/r to their maintenance regimen? For me I basically do 5K changes on my Sportwagen with HPL because I've been tracking my car during that 5K. If I was just daily driving the whole interval I'd do 10K for sure.
 
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Apparently the 160 is just for salt water, if you are running exclusively fresh water, you can bump up to a 180, that's what I did with our 351W, FWIW.
Hi Overlill, thanks for your response. My marine parts supplier states that the 140-143 thermostat is for saltwater use versus the 160 for freshwater use. I do like the idea of using a 180 degree thermo even better.
I find that your posts are very helpful.
 
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Hi Overlill, thanks for your response. My marine parts supplier states that the 140-143 thermostat is for saltwater use versus the 160 for freshwater use. I do like the idea of using a 180 degree thermo even better.
I find that your posts are very helpful.
Is yours carbureted? I recall that being the split (140/160, salt/fresh) with the carb'd ones. We had a discussion on this a while back:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/boat-thermostats.332683/

And a good article was linked by @philipp10 about running a 180. I ended up buying a high flow 180, which keeps the engine around 175-177F.
 
This is neat! I remember HPL’s David mentioned that HPL was working on this no-VII series a couple of weeks ago.
I was thinking of sending a question to David Ward about the development, but this thread answers my questions.

I look forward to using this series of oils.

David, what oil do you think would be best for a marine Ford flat tappet engine? I am mostly concerned with camshaft and tappet wear and the 160 degree thermostat that is specified for freshwater use. Do you think the cold engine temperatures would prevent the anti wear additives from being fully activated?
Warm it up over a gas stove and then pour it in 😂. Joking aside, that's a good question ⁉️
 
Would you be able to produce these with the CK-4 add pack?

What would be the point? HPL's Heavy Duty motor oil line-up is already as strong as it can be. HPL formulates some of the best, if not the best, with the widest available selection, CK-4 motor oils in the industry.


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Fair question. The PCMO’s are made with D1G3 chemistry. The Euro uses 502.00/A40. And of course these are not cookbook formulations so that is simply the starting point and things get better from there.
Thanks for your reply.
So it's fair to say that the SAE 5W-30 non-VII Euro could be used in (car in signature) which specifies VW 502.00 and SAE 5W-30 or SAE 5W-40 oil grades?
 
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