Help needed buying a new, or near new SUV

Look on AutoTrader and CarFax used cars, and only look at the vehicles that have a free car-fax report and show no accidents, and regular oil and filter changes (like every 7 K miles or less). You do not ever want to buy a vehicle that has had the engine damaged by the previous owner running it too long without changing the oil. It takes more looking, but those with regular oil changes are the good ones. There are always some getting turned back in from lease.
 
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Honda has a very cleaver rear seat system in the CR-V that folds up very easy. Check out the YouTube videos on it.

And there are YouTube videos on how to do the different fluid and filter changes on them. They are very easy to do. The cabin and engine air filters are very easy to do. And in general almost all work on a CR-V is easy to do, and almost all of it has YouTube videos on how to do it. Just be sure to use a torque wrench when you tighten anything. You can get good low cost mechanical torque wrenches at NAPA. It is a good idea to even get a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and put a short extension and six point 19 mm ( or 3/4 inch ) (there is only 2/1000 of an inch difference between 19 mm and 3/4 inch) socket with it and wrap it in a small rug and put it next to the spare tire. Almost all modern vehicles can have the dist (rotor) warp from over-tightening the lug nuts (not just Honda). Do not buy an expensive electric torque wrench that has a digital display that relies on a battery. When you go to use it, the battery may be dead. Also put a 4 way with a 3/4 six point for removing the lug nuts. Never use a torque wrench to loosen lug nuts. Also always set torque wrenches to 0 when not in use so the spring in them is not under compression and stays in calibration. There are YouTube videos on this.
 
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I assume your island is fairly flat, and therefore you should not require a lot of power from your vehicle. But if you ever want a lot of acceleration from a Honda CR-V with a CVT transmission, like you are going to pull onto a highway and are using a short entrance ramp, shift it into S (sport) mode and the CVT will select a lower gear ratio and the engine will rev faster and you will have much more acceleration (and a little worse gas millage while in S mode). You can shift it back into D while it is moving after you are on the highway.
 
Honda and Toyota are the only two manufacturers that make good reliable CVT transmissions. If you get a CR-V be sure to do a drain and fill of the CVT fluid every 30 K miles or 25 K miles if severe service. As far as I know the CVT does not have a filter to change. When you do a drain and fill half the old fluid remains in the transmission and does mix with the new fluid. But that is the service Honda recommends and if you do it as recommended the CVT will last a very long time. Watch several YouTube videos because there are some things that some leave out, but if you should see all the details. A front wheel only takes something less than 4 quarts, and an AWD takes about 4.5 quarts, to do a drain and fill. When you put the fluid back in, put in less than the full amount, such as for an AWD put in 4 quarts. Then start the vehicle (it can still be up in the air on 4 jack-stands if that is how you are doing it) and put it in each of the positions on snifter for at least 3 second each position, and repeat that two more times for a total of 3 times for each position. Then shut it off. (Something you will not see on any YouTube video is to let it sit for a long time, like an hour so any air and foaming settles out) then firsts open the fill port, then the over-flow port. Then add fluid until it comes out the over-flow. Put the over-flow plug in with a new crush washer. Cap the fill port. Your good to go for another 25K to 30K miles.

I would use only Honda fluid. It is a little more expensive but you will know it was done with good fluid.
 
S (sport) mode is also good for extra power if you are going to be going up steep hills, although the Honda CR-V has a sensor that senses the slope of any hill you go up and includes that in figuring out what ratio the CVT uses even in the normal D mode. The D mode is geared a little on the high side to keep the engine RPM's low and get the best possible MPG's. I use S on the way home almost every day to go us a very long windy hill. The vehicle has a lot more get-up-and-go in S mode and almost feels like it want to go so well that I feel like winding it out a little and going somewhat fast up that hill. I always take it a little easy compared to what it could do in S mode because I do not want to go around bends soooo fast that the tires are stressed to the point of sliding some, and wearing out faster. So, if you ever feel the CR-V is not peppy enough, try it in S mode.

L (low) is for selecting a very low gear ratio from the CVT, for things like going up very steep hills.

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Be aware, the AWD Honda CR-V is only AWD at low speeds. Somewhere between 25 to 30 MPH it shifts to only rear wheel drive, to get better gas millage.
 
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For those who keep recommending a hybrid. The original post did say the owner liked to keep their cars for 20 years. How many 20 year old hybrids do you see still on the road?
 
Toyota has done some neat design of what they are doing with there CVT, but I do not know what models they are using it on. They have a gear drive first that is selected with clutch, and a clutch for selecting the CVT. The gear drive is for pulling out from a stop. Low speed low gear ratios are hard to do with a CVT. And having a gear drive for this is easy on the CVT which is used for the higher ratios, and also because the CVT does not handle low speeds, it is designed with ratios that are better for the higher speeds it is used for. The down side to this is the shift form geared, to CVT. Some people do not like the way this transmission feels.

Check out the Toyota forums and YouTube, and { NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) for recalls and complaints, and safety ratings}, for any Toyota vehicle you are interested in. And check out the Honda forums, and YouTube, and {NHTSA for recalls, complaints, and safety} for any Honda vehicle you are interested in.
 
For those who keep recommending a hybrid. The original post did say the owner liked to keep their cars for 20 years. How many 20 year old hybrids do you see still on the road?

Usually somewhere between 13 to 17 years old the main drive battery goes bad, and it cost several thousands of dollars to replace. The low cost fix of just fixing the bad cells is not a good idea because the other old cells will fail soon.
 
I would strongly suggest you read the reviews on the new RAV4 before purchasing one, to say the reviews have been mixed is putting it lightly (by Toyota standards).

If I had to chose between the RAV4 or CRV, the RAV4 just looks bigger and better to me and I like the interior more too. But Honda just seems to have taken over the segment and the Toyota has had a lot of complaints about the shifting feel/quality in the new RAV4’s. I haven’t driven one, but I have driven the new Highlander and it did feel “weird” to me - felt dialed down, felt sluggish, didn’t feel real responsive or lively, I actually thought I was driving a four cylinder...popped the hood and it was a six. Asked the owner if it felt strange to him, he said yeah, it’s just the way Toyota is doing it now.

I have driven the new CRV (my dad owns one). I mean, they drive nice. It feels ok. I just don’t love the look of them, especially compared to the new RAV4.

They‘re both high quality manufacturers but I’d say Toyota been slightly better over the past 6-7 years. But that means nothing when talking about right NOW. Because as technology changes and ideas in a company changes...you have to watch out, because past performance flies right out the window. It’s a very cyclical business and these two swap punches every year. But I guess you really can’t lose with either. Disclaimer — I’ve bought every Toyota’s over the last 7 years, prior to that it was Honda. Haha.
 
OK-I'll bite-what is it a salvage title or???????

No. 2012 Ford Fusion. Came with a 5yr 60K powertrain warranty. A teacher traded it in because it was out of warranty. Got her oil changed every 3K at dealer.. all service records. Salesman was a friend of a friend of a friend.. He told me they had about $6K in it with the trade in plus they made money off of her buying it and the service.. and that they will make plenty on the sale of the new car she bought. So they made $2k off of me.

Their Price on the windshield was $12K.. $8K cash got the deal done.
 
Any thoughts on any other similar sized SUV we might consider bearing in mind, long term reliability is more important than initial cost?
 
I'd snag a rav4 without the battery. CPO 2019. Highest trim level.
Any thoughts on any other similar sized SUV we might consider bearing in mind, long term reliability is more important than initial cost?

Mazda CX5, 2017 model (no cylinder DoD). Or, if you favor fun, one of the 2019 or 2020 turbo models is pretty spirited for its class. The 2017 with low miles in the highest trim level available is a solid bet though. No real issues, and a great track record for this engine/transmission combo along with a very responsive chassis.
 
I'd just like to add, the lady owner will be in her later years, she will not be doing her own maintenance or is she interested in 0-60 acceleration in under 1 minute ;-)
 
I did a google search about the typography of Vancouver island this morning and found that it is mountainous, so if you get a Honda CR-V with the CVT transmission you should do drain and fills every 25 K miles. You will probably use the S mode often if you want plenty of get-up-and-go going up mountains, and leaving it in S while going down-hill provides more engine braking which would be easier on the brakes.

The 2016 Honda CR-V comes in different trim levels.

The base stripped down version is the LX. The LX has 16 inch steel rims. Do not buy an LX model because it does not have the very small camera below the right side mirror that displays what is in your blind spot if you turn on the right turn signal, or press the button on the end of the turn signal. This feature is very handy if you are changing lanes from left lane to right lane.

The next model above the LX is the SE. The SE has 17 inch alloy wheels, I do not know if the SE has the camera below the right side mirror, but if it does not, do not buy one.

The next model up is the EX. The EX 17 inch alloy wheels, and has the blind spot camera, cloth seats, and six way adjustable power drivers seat that is very comfortable, and both front seats have independent heating that you can turn off or on and when on there are two heat settings low and high, and it has a moon roof. This is the model bought. I did not want a moon roof because of the possibility of water leaking in but so far it has been fine. I treat the rubber seal on the moon roof and the rest of the vehicle (doors) with a rubber seal conditioner make by 303. And there is a panel that you can slide below the moon-roof that completely blocks off all sun-light and noise.

The next model up is the EX-L. The EX-L has all the options of the EX and leather seats, and the rear-view mirror in the center top of the windshield has an automatic day/night shift feature so the driver never has to select day or night on it, and it has a big bass speaker hidden in-front of the bottom of the drivers seat. This is the most common model. You can expect to see many EX-L models when you go looking for a used Honda CR-V. My sister has an EX-L in a 2018 version ( her husband and her bought it new and I did not know they were looking for one). She got the optional $600.00 Honda remote start, and the optional power rear hatch that opens and closes with the press of a button. She like it, and has not had any problems with fuel dilution with the 1.5 L turbo engine so far. But before covet-19 she was working and had to travel about 10 miles each way to and from work.

The next model up is the Touring. The Touring has 18 inch alloy wheels, and all the options that the EX-L has. And (I think, but am not 100 % sure) all the options that are optional on the other models. I think it comes standard with power rear hatch, lane watch drivers assist, and navigation. I could be wrong about the navigation and the prescription radio, that may still be an options that you have to pay for, but I am not sure. The Touring models are the top of the line version and cost a lot more when new, so you can expect to pay more for a used Touring model.

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If you find a 2016 with low miles, a clean car-fax report (no accidents), and car-fax report showing regular oil and filter changes, do not expect it to stay on any dealers lot long. Those are the ones that sell fast. I would offer $150.00 below what the dealer asks. That is about all you can expect to talk them down on one like that.

If it is at a Honda dealer and comes with a Honda Certified pre-owned warranty you will be getting one year on non-power train items, and the reminder of the 7 year 100,000 mile power-train warranty. If the dealer tries to sell you an additional extended warranty, DO NOT BUY IT. The additional extended still looks at the date of the original purchaser as the date that they start the warranty from and goes to 7 years from that date. So you will be buying no additional warranty on the power-train because you already have the 7 year power-train warranty. And if you are getting the Honda Certified pre-owned warranty you already have one year on non-power train items. So all this additional extended warranty really is good for is about 2 years on not-power-train items beyond the one year you already have. And the price they want for it is too high. They will use pressure techniques by telling you, you only have the day of the sale to purchase it. In the contract there is a statement that if you do buy it, and decide within the first 60 days you do not want it, you can cancel it and get all of your money back. So if they do pressure you into buying it, you can realize that all you are buying is about 2 years on non-power-train items (after the one year you already have), and get out of it before that 60 days are up. But I would just not buy the extended warranty in the first place because the additional 2 years at the price they want is not worth it. If a high price item like the electronics for the dash goes bad, you can get second had ones at salvage yards for less than Honda wants for them. There were 359,673 2016 new Honda CR-V's sold in the United States. New and use parts are going to be around for them for many years. They are like the Chevy Impala was years ago. You see them everywhere.

I found my 2016 Honda CR-V with 19,788 mile on it and a clean car-fax report (no accidents) and regular oil and filter changes back in February and jumped on it. It had only been at up for sale a couple of days. The dealer had resurfaced the brake disks and put new brakes on it on all 4, and had put 4 new tires on it, and changed the fluid in the rear end. Also the original owner had a new battery put in it in December 2019. My brother went with me to look at it, and he is better at negotiating a lower price than I am. I am into the details of the vehicle.

The only problem I have had is that after I drove it for a week I noticed that on long straight roads I had to hold some left into the steering-wheel. The test drive rout the sales person had me take did not include long straight roads for a long enough drive to notice this then. I called the Honda dealer on a Thursday, and they had me bring it in the following Monday and aligned it. The back wheels were very slightly out of alignment and they put them back into alignment for free. My independent mechanic said the Hunter machine the dealer used cost $60,0000 dollars. The print out they gave me about the alignment shows them measuring the angles down to 1/100 of a degree, and how much it was out of specification before the alignment and what the measurements were after it was aligned. That is pretty darn accurate. The local alignment shop I used for my vehicles in the past does not have any machine that accurate.

I like my 2016 CR-V EX and have put about 1,800 miles on it so far. I plan to change the fluids often and to use only Honda fluids for the CVT trany and the rear end, and hope to keep this vehicle for a very long time.

Good luck in what ever vehicle you end up getting.
 
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BTW, The tires the dealer put on mine are BFGoodrich Assurance T/A sport LT with the three peak mountain snow-flake symbol rating. I looked them up on the online tire store tirerack and their winter review of the winter performance of these is an 8.9, and the Bridestone Blizzak WS 90 which is there latest and best improved snow tire rated a 9.3 so the tire the dealer put on it is a very good winter tire, but it is also an all season tire, and the sport rating it has means it handles well on hot days on spirited driving conditions. This is the first all-season tire that I feel safe enough to not have a set of winter tires on the vehicle. If you read up on the recent improvements in tire rubber compounds and also recent improvements in how the sipes in tires are now designed, you will see that it is only recently that tires have been able to be engineered with the best of both summer performance and winter traction, and still be designed to get good tread life. BFGoodrich use to make this tire without the three peak mountain snow-flake rating symbol, so if you buy any be sure it has that symbol. In the past I always had a second set of all 4 on rims of Bridestone Blizzaks for our vehicles. Now I will not have to do that. So if you are ever looking for a good all season tire, regardless of what vehicle, the above BFGoodrich according to the tirerack report and also some YouTube videos of it performing in snow last winter, is a good choice.
 
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I'd just like to add, the lady owner will be in her later years, she will not be doing her own maintenance or is she interested in 0-60 acceleration in under 1 minute ;-)


I would guess that visibility will be a key factor here. That not only includes visibility with the eyes but also the camera and alert systems too.
 
The 2016 CR-V has a camera on the back that show what is behind you when you put it in reverse, this is a very nice feature for anyone including older people. And the EX, EX-L, and Touring have the camera under the right side mirror that shows what is in the blind spot. That is very nice to use. It even show lines so you can tell if the vehicle behind you on the right is far enough back before you go over to change lanes.

If she is up in her years she will appreciate having the power rear hatch if she gets one with that option. It was an option on the EX and EX-L, so those models may or may not have it, but I am pretty sure it is standard on the Touring. There are aftermarket retrofit kits to add the power tail-gate but it is not an easy job.

The CVT has very nice smooth power. And if she does not know enough to shift it into S for more performance going up hills, it does have a sensor that senses the slope that the vehicle is on and takes that into account when selecting the ratio that the CVT runs at. The AWD is nice to have in snow or mud. It only works at low speeds. Somewhere between 25 to 30 mph it goes to only rear wheel drive to get better gas millage.

Of course with any AWD vehicle you want to have all 4 tires with the same diameter. That can (very rarely) cause the owner to have to replace all 4 tires if one gets damaged in a way it can not be repaired, because if there is enough wear on the tires, a new one with more tread will have too much of a difference in the diameter.

All in all, the 2016 Honda CRV is a nice reliable vehicle. The 2.4 Liter engine is one of the most reliable engines ever made, and Honda made it for a long time. Change the oil and filter on them when you should and they will outlast the vehicle. And there is a maintenance reminder that will display when the oil needs changed. You can access how much life is left on the oil on the dash. It show it in percent.
 
Given that your friend keeps vehicles a long time you are probably best off going used if you can find a 'certified' car. But that really depends on how many miles your friend puts on a year. Domestic makers generally have a lot higher depreciation, as do luxury makes. I'd look at a Lincoln or Ford as a most bang for your buck purchase.

For new, I'd look a a RAV4 hybrid or Subaru Forester ('19 or '20) if the prices are reasonable. BC gas prices are rather ridiculous so I'd lean toward the hybrid.
 
FYI, the power rear hatch is standard on the CR-V EX-L. The driver assist is excellent, probably 2nd only to Tesla.
Personally, I would get an EX-L AWD Hybrid or gas only. Great vehicles. I found it to be a better driver than the RAV4 Hybrid.
But that is a personal choice; drive 'em all.
 
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