Will this do me any good? I mean what can they do at best? Come to think of it, even if I cannot regain anything monetarily for 'pain and suffering' perhaps just reporting it can't hurt as long as it does not get too acrimonious?
HELP ME DECIDE; CP Motorcraft or Spr AS Syn Blend?
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Will this do me any good? I mean what can they do at best? Come to think of it, even if I cannot regain anything monetarily for 'pain and suffering' perhaps just reporting it can't hurt as long as it does not get too acrimonious?
Thanks. It feels good to 'go through the steps' but more importantly, to 'execute' it once on my own. I even got the new crush washer despite the insistence to some 'old school' thought coming from some older peeps to keep the old one on.
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I always replace mine, and it states in the manual to do so. I've re-used one before without problems, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. If you ever need any crush washers let me know, I have 60 of them
This CP oil is real good for an Accord. I recommend it if you have one. Car runs better in cold and warm starts across all viscosities as the oil reaches optimal temp. Lots of good pep. Had that one bit of weird smell during the first drive but recall a similar smell when I first used the MC so nothing to be alarmed about. Real smooth just like M1. Infact, can't tell a difference except it's again, butt dyno, feels better. This oil OCI might be worthy of an UOA.
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I always replace mine, and it states in the manual to do so. I've re-used one before without problems, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. If you ever need any crush washers let me know, I have 60 of them
I just couldn't believe the 'old school thought' was to keep the old crush washer on and not replace it. You would think 'old school thought' would err on the side of caution and replace a crush washer even Honda lubes will give you free upon request. Thanks but I got a hand full as well a couple days ago at the dealer. Thanks though. The cool thing is now I feel I can change the oil on my own given I have the right tools which in this case is a simple 'universal' filter wrench and now a little bit of know-how!
It's clear you cannot trust any lubes to change your oil+filter the exact way you want it and this is quite the revelation. Boycott lubes BITOGers, change your own oil!
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This oil is a beast! Woo hoo.. let the mileage trickle back in now! The shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 are more seamless. power is on tap and is continuously 'on the brink' for me. Totally different from the M1 even when I first put it in.
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You need help.
LOL! . . .
He posts some funny stuff; I just wish I could be there to show him how to change his own oil.
Go with what is cheaper, of course.
The engine runs cooler too I'd bet!
How is the A/C?
I guess we all need some entertainment.
Because there is no fact here...
Oh wait! Maybe mobil changed the formula since the last time you ran it. Have we had something happen like Hurricanes that caused Mobils last change?
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You need help.
LOL! . . .
He posts some funny stuff; I just wish I could be there to show him how to change his own oil.
I changed it by myself although I did have help. That's how I discovered the fraud by lastllube xyz who didn't install the filter I paid good money for. ----.
Ohh yeah, I didn't have the oil filter wrench so that caused me the inability to remove the filter. I had to have someone capable to strong arm it. No filter wrench issue will be rectified with a stop at Pep Boys this week. I am pleased at the results of this oil in my car.
No, there will no claims of fluctuations in AC nor anything else that is not TRUE as far as being attributed to an oil change.
Thanks!. I got a case for 22.50 + tax! Less then 2 bucks per qt before tax and 2 bucks and change per qt after tax. This is not an OTC oil.
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Just curious, where did you end up getting your CP All-Season Synthetic Blend Oil? I've never seen it for sale before.
Right here from another BITOGer. Here's the link.
http://lubricants.conocophillips.com/locator/locator.asp?div=LC&av=&st=TX&ctry=US
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IF they're sweet then I'm probably gonna be gettin' it. I need one. I got lucky yesterday that someone was around to strong-arm the old(got duped one- it was *supposed* to be an A02) one open. He did the same to tighten the new (NG!) one on!
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IF they're sweet then I'm probably gonna be gettin' it. I need one. I got lucky yesterday that someone was around to strong-arm the old(got duped one- it was *supposed* to be an A02) one open. He did the same to tighten the new (NG!) one on!
Aw man, I don't want to go from pauper to penthouse that fast so I'm just gonna go buy a functional 'cheapie' from local place 'round here and maybe advance one day to this formidable one. I'm a newb anyhow so it's all brand new to me whether it's simply functional or a real 'piece' like yours. You don't realize how big of a bullet I dodged so I gotta simply get one in quick.
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I just realized something. That this entire blog on the oil I am using below(and above) may have done more to highlight why M1 may still, very well and very likely, be GRP III and not GRP IV.
I mean think about this for a second. This 'Super' All-Season Syn 'Blend', mind you, that has almost the same HT/HS which is 2.6 versus M1's 2.62 , a higher Viscosity Index (VIIs?), comparable cSt @ 100 as well as flashpoint?! C'mon from a GRP II+III blend presumably??
C'mon Mobil..you're better then that. Tell us now finally that you are indeed a freakin GROUP III! Heck their 0w-20 which should be PAO+GRP III would be better(better wear control/metals) then their 5w-20 which supposedly is rock solid(higher wear metals?).
Did I just realize this and everyone else knew it to be fact or did I just stumble on our 'Is M1 GRP III' answer?
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I remember the mobil dino oils a few years back all had flash points below 400. something in the way mobil did things on paper...the uoa's always seemed to come in over 400. I seriously doubt that 365 figure in an oil that respectable...
The 365 for flash point is for MC not M1.
Hey, does anyone realize that for the GM6094M spec on this current list, Ford's MC is not even listed and neither does M1, Castrol Syntec nor PP 5w-20 which are full synthetics meet the spec either while CP's other product, the Super All-Season syn blend is listed. Odd. Why would Ford use MC and not this blend if it is better Here is the list again..I realize it's just one spec but I'm from the school of thought that the more the better as a general rule..
http://216.182.211.32/techlink/images/issues/ref_gds/oilrequirements.pdf
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Update: Just filled up the gas to the tilt and reset the computer to see if this new OCI of the blend will yield that great FE that the MC did. Lets see if using a blend versus the prev M1 will yield better FE given very similar driving conditions...
If anything it could just add some fuel to the fire that synthetics may not necessarily yield better FE. It an be the other way around with blends although I am not trying to wield this as some type of mantra(if I get better FE) just yet.
We shall see...
If anything it could just add some fuel to the fire that synthetics may not necessarily yield better FE. It an be the other way around with blends although I am not trying to wield this as some type of mantra(if I get better FE) just yet.
We shall see...
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