I have a Arctic Cat 300 4X4 which has a Suzuki oil cooled motor with a wet clutch and a shared oil sump.
This summer I'm going to use the ATV to till soil for a wildlife food plot. The speed will be slow and the ATV will be under a load pulling a small disk or drag, so not much air will be going through the oil radiator or around the cooling fins of the motor.
I know that a synthetic will be the wisest choice for an oil. The factory manual spec is generally 10W-40, for temps above 50 degrees 20W-50 can be used. All oils should be JASO rated or not have moly or friction modifiers for the wet clutch.
Locally I have Rotella T 5W-40 and Mobil 1 Motorcycle 10W-40, as well as an Amsoil dealer who can order anything.
Opinions?
HDEO for extreme temps in an ATV
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Are you an Amsoil dealer?
Just wondering?
Anyway, use Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil or Amsoil which ever is cheaper to the spout of the engine.
Your oil cooler with fan should keep the temps in line with engine op temp safety. I agree...many won't that a Jaso rated oil should be used.
Nope, I'm not a Amsoil dealer. It looks like I kinda made it sound that way.
BTW this machine does not have a cooling fan.
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I would definitely use a synthetic in your case,fan or no fan she's going to get HOT with no air moving through it!!,i'd use M1's 20w50MC oil(found at Autozone) or Amsoil's MCV 20w50 IMO.
my warrior see's 280 deg.+ oil temps
Agreed, can't beat the Mobil One moto oils, and I'd run the 20w50 as long as you're working the atv that hard. Maybe switch to the 10w40 in the winter.
I have the same motor in my 01 kingquad and what I did was run a 12v dashboard fan blowing on the engine. I just zip tied it in and used the 12V socket. It still gets plenty hot but I've never had the oil temp light come on.
For oil I'm running 0W40 rotella T year round but I don't work the machine that hard in the summer, I plow my 1/4 mile driveway with it in winter.
I didn't know 20W50 was recommended for summer use but it makes sense, in superlow the final drive can be under a huge load.
Also I guess if your getting overheating you could take off the seat for more convection airflow. You'd have to stand of course but it would get the job done.
I have the Eiger its a Suzuki 400 air cooled I use Valvoline ATV 10w40. I have used a haro drag towed trees, hauled loads had it run for hours in July and August. I have never had a problem. I have thought of running Delvac in it over the summer. I put Delvac in my Harley a few months ago. I always ran Amsoil for years the bike runs the same. That diesel oil is tough.
How hot does the oil really get?
Originally Posted By: Steve S
How hot does the oil really get?
Originally Posted By: daman
my warrior see's 280 deg.+ oil temps
I just purchased Mobil 1 Motorcycle 20W-50.
This oil should be really resistant to shear being a 20w and cool well being synthetic etc.
This bike really is a 280cc but labeled as 300cc, I'll be working it hard and don't want to burn it up.
As far as temps I don't have a thermometer to register that high. The temperature idiot light hasn't come on yet, if it works at all. I don't wish to tempt fate.
Thanks for the replies.
Check back in and relate your impressions of the oil after you run it.
I can't remember at what temperature the oil light is supposed switch on, 260F sounds familiar... Anyways I'll be interested to hear how the machine runs on that oil too.
Yes do please report back,very robust oil you have there nice add pack should hold up fine.
how much does it hold??
Around 4L or so, which I guess is quite a bit for a single 280cc engine.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Around 4L or so, which I guess is quite a bit for a single 280cc engine.
That's allot of oil in an engine like that. I've never seen an ATV that held that much oil...crazy man. Oil capacity will help.
Almost four quarts is roughly the oil capacity.
This Suzuki incorporates the rear differential into the case with the transmission and engine.
Just remember that part of the JASO spec it the lube must be suitable as a transmission gear lubricant. While some of those diesel oils may be ok for a wet clutch, how are they as a gear lubricant?
I don't think I would be gambling with a oil that does not place the spec on the bottle.
Quote:
Though 4-cycle motorcycle engines may be considered more similar to automobile engines than 2-stroke motorcycle engines, they still have very different performance requirements. Historically, 4-stroke motorcycles have had problems with gear pitting wear in the transmissions and clutch slippage. In many cases, this can be directly attributed to the oil used. Most automotive engine oil is developed to minimize friction and maximize fuel economy. Since the oil for many 4-stroke motorcycles is circulated not only through the engine [as with an automobile], but also through the transmission and clutch, different characteristics are required of the oil. First, a certain amount of friction is necessary to prevent clutch slippage. Second, the oil needs to prevent wear and pitting in the gears of the transmission. These and other essential characteristics are addressed in the standards developed by JASO for 4-stroke engines.
As with the 2-stroke classification, the JASO 4-stroke classification is also divided into grades, MA, MA2 and MB. MB is lower friction oil, while MA is relatively higher friction oil. Other than friction, the JASO 4-stroke classification tests for five other physicochemical properties: sulfated ash, evaporative loss, foaming tendency, shear stability, and high temperature high shear viscosity (HTHS). Sulfated ash can cause pre-ignition if the oil is present in the combustion chamber. It can also contribute to deposits above the piston rings and subsequent valve leakage. Evaporative loss and foaming reduce the amount of lubrication and protection in the transmission, engine, and clutch. With less shear stability, oil loses its capability of retaining original viscosity resulting in increased metal-to-metal contact and wear. High temperature high shear viscosity tests provide viscosity characteristics and data under severe temperature and shear environments.
I had the exact same machine for a while, bought it for my dad then traded it in. We used 10W-40 dino all year w/o problems. M1 20W-50 sounds like a good one for you to use. I know that machine's engine sits at the rear and doesn't get much air flow. I really like the idea of installing a fan behind the oil cooler! That would really help in cooling or add another oil cooler since the one that's on it is pretty small.
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