ATV/wet clutch oil opinions

Truly conventional oils are not common nowadays. If you're buying a brand name oil, it is likely at least a syn blend. I don't see any language on the Rotella T4 label indicating either way, but I'm pretty sure it is not a true conventional oil. It will work fine in your ATV. I use T4 and T6 15w40 in both my bikes as well as Honda GN4 and Yamalube, whatever is a good deal when I need more oil. About 5w40 vs 15w40, If it's too cold to run a 15w oil, it's too cold for me to ride. So I use the "thicker" stuff.
 
most semi-syns are a waste as there are NO rules governing the amount of syn, usually group III fake synthetic in the blend + for little more all group III syn is cost efficient. real group IV + V oils are best BUT $$$. the first # is the base oil + viscosity improvers make it reach the second #, so unless its a real synthetic + even then a they are not as stout + conventional oils THICKEN a lot when cold as the 5W rating is taken at 104F making your oil a lot thicker when its COLD!!!
 
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I see T6 0W40 now. I run my Honda Foreman 500 a lot for ice fishing and it sits at -20C plus windchill pretty frequently. Thought the 0 might be good for those frigid starts?
 
I see T6 0W40 now. I run my Honda Foreman 500 a lot for ice fishing and it sits at -20C plus windchill pretty frequently. Thought the 0 might be good for those frigid starts?
Absolutely. And don't buy into the biotg folklore about 5w40 and 0w40 commercial grade engine oils thinning out of grade.
Instead of a pail of 0w40 T6, you can get jugs of Delvac 0w40 at Canadian Tire or Duron from your Petro-Canada bulk dealer.
 
I use and have used Rotella T6 for years but recently in the last 2 or 3 years switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 and have not looked back.
 
Which Valvoline were you using? I've had good luck with their Synthetic Motorcycle 10w40 and the regular conventional Motorcycle 10w40 (blue bottle) in a Honda 300 fourtrax 4x4, Yamaha Blaster, and Honda 400ex. I also ran Honda GN4 and Rotella 15w40 T4 in the Hondas. Never really noticed a difference in any of them, except the Rotella 15w40 made the Fourtrax turn over a bit slower when starting it for winter plowing haha.
The 10W-40 ATV oil in the blue bottle. The gearbox felt notchy and high effort. UPDATE: I have been using the Rotella semi-syn 15W-40 and the machine seems to like it. My clutch doesn't slip, the gearbox is butter smooth, and I don't have any blue puffs at start up. A guy I was talking to at the BBQ last night who is a professional engine builder cautioned that it may not be the best choice for these ATV's was stunned when I told him the forum discussion. So far I'm pleased with the Rotella and it seems to be holding up well. I beat the snot out of the machine yesterday at that BBQ....10 acres with huge elevation changes, bumps, whoopdie doos, wheelies, etc. Machine never skipped a beat.
 
The T6 5W40 used to have the MA rating, and I ran it in my 300 kingquad for a couple years. I ran some castrol syntec 5W50 in it in 2006 or so and the clutch started slipping in the cold until the oil warmed up, I switched to T6 5W40 pretty much eliminated 95% of the cold slipping so I ran it for a couple years. Then I switched to rotella t3 15w40 which made all slipping go away but cold starts were tough... I'm now using T4 15W40 and cold starts are pretty good, but I only really run it at -10C and up.
T6 and
I appreciate everyones input. I found T4 15W-40 at Family Farm and Home for $16.99 a gallon and I'm gonna give it a go. It doesn't say synthetic blend like I thought....is it a blend or not? Either way, the price can't be beat and I'm gonna try it in the mower this year too.
T6 is synthetic, T5 is a blend, and T4 is conventional. T6 and T4 are JASO MA/MA2 for wet clutches so don't worry about using them. T5 may or may not be, I haven't looked.
 
I use Castrol Actevo 10w40 synthetic blend in my 2022 Kawasaki Teryx S model. It’s JASO rated, and available through Walmart for around $30 per gallon. The Teryx has a cvt, but also has a wet clutch requiring motorcycle rated oil.

I’ve used this oil in several motorcycles and atv’s, and now in my UTV, with great results. Haven’t found anything better for the money, and the ratings are what Kawasaki requires for the Teryx.
 
I use this in my yamaha moto 4
Screenshot_20230625_145011_Walmart.jpg
 
I've been reading here and there about different ATV oils for a couple hours. Today I changed the oil in my 2001 Honda 300EX sport quad from Valvoline to Honda GN4 that I got from work. The clutch grabs better and the gearbox seems to shift smoother. But, even with my discount, it's still spendy. If I'm reading right, a lot of folks have used HDEO's in wet clutch applications for a long time. I don't recall the HDEO's having the JASO MA labeling though....so, are they still ok to use? I change my oil frequently, so cost is an issue. Also....if Rotella products can be used, how would the T6 5W-40 do in this machine? Every other small engine I use it in runs cooler and smoother....something I'd like for the 300EX as it gets quite hot on the trails. I'm also open to opinions on other oils like Maxima, Mobil1 4T, Castrol etc. My 300EX appears to be all original, never opened up, and has the original clutch.
Moly in the oil is your enemy. If the clutch slipped before, the fibers have already soaked that in and will slip forever, until replaced. Replace the clutch now, before you get chunks of it into your main crank pin roller bearings and buy some Rotella 15-40 after that and don't worry about it again.
 
Forgot to ask...why/how does a 5W-40 shear faster than a 15W-40?
the base oil of 15w40 is thicker and requires less VII than the 5w40 does.
on wet clutches, the gears in the tranny cut the VII up and thus shearing the oil to a thinner fluid
the bigger the spread - 10w60 is HUGE!!! - the more VII

and please people dont be an idiot about the "w"...its for winter.
5w40 means...flows like sae5 in winter, sae40 in summer
 
the 5W rating is taken at 104F making your oil a lot thicker when its COLD!!!
Where on earth did this tidbit of trivia come from? There is so much inaccuracy and fallacy being spread these days that at some point somebody is going to actually have to attend a school that teaches known fact.

We can't continue to be a society of YouTube educated professionals and expect to make any advancement in culture and science.
 
by no means am i saying they are good, but on the report that the blackstoners provide, the report clearly shows the susvis as 210F and the cSt tested at 100C
 
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