Half of the "dumb" on BITOG

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I laughed, I cried, and then I realized I'm glad everyone is responsible for their own actions/suggestions/choices in their own applications etc. I like the folks that I've had conversations with, FWIWs. +1 to the users!
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I suppose I only spend my time reading the threads I find intriguing and something of value can be taken from it...or one's that are just plain funny like this one. Also, good for something.
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Seriously, though, no one is on the same 'level' here. I'm a learning one, hardly learned, and I've enjoyed my time spent so far. If something is dead wrong, it's plain wrong...if it needs clarity communicate and have a conversation. It's not hard folks. Assuming is where problems come in for everyone involved, quite frankly.
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Once a car starts consuming oil, you can quickly move to just changing the filter, because when you are topping up the oil, you are changing the oil.


I think Im taking the bait but...

Disclaimer: Im not going to agree or disagree with the above statement but just thought I would mention a couple of items.

Some owners manuals (CAT Engines for instance) actually vary the oil change interval based on the addition of oil.

Some engine manufacturers actually have a system (Cummins for instance) in which oil is pulled from the crankcase and ran through the fuel pump to be mixed and burned with the fuel while this oil is replaced from a reservoir that is kept full. Filters are cleaned (bypass) and replaced (full flow) at regular intervals and the crankcase is only drained at several hundred-thousand mile intervals which I believe coincides with running the overhead (Adjusting valves, injectors, engine brake, etc).
 
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The manual might say to use 0w-20, but I think going up a grade is better. After all, it is sometimes nearly 5 degrees warmer than average where I live. I also live on a gentle hill and occasionally drive with a toddler in a car seat in the back, so the engine is subjected to SEVERE abuse.
 
Originally Posted By: 67Customs
Originally Posted By: buickman50401
Let's not leave out a few of the newer ones:

Valvoline NextGen is clearly an inferior product because it uses 50% recycled oil and will probably ruin your engine (despite being put out by a major oil blender with a name/rep to protect and meeting current API specs).

G-Oil can't possibly be safe. To heck with the actual specs and API certs. It will bring you utter ruin.
This is my favorite new one.

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Oops. I originally forgot to include that there is a VOA on the G-Oil as well that while not showing anything impressive shows it does meet SM specs.
 
Don't you know? API specs are meaningless -- except when they place limits on some additive.
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My favorite is the blatant disregard for d00df00d's "What oil should I use? What is the BEST oil?" sticky.

"I have a XXX, which I think is a race car, what oil is best?"
 
Originally Posted By: AlienBug
Compasses don't work in cars running Mobil1. Something about all the loose iron rattling around under the hood.
+1 lol
 
I love this thread. It's sooooooo true that a lot of the members here live by a lot of the things said. I think the people who actually got upset by this thread are the people we are talking about. At the end of the day people, it's only motor oil. I'll add one....

Pennzoil Ultra...no I'll pass. Way too easy!
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
LOL, I like this thread.

I have one:

Castrol oil is junk because their commercials are stupid.


Thanks for (admitting to:)) liking the thread. This is a good one, and I would say that this has a related one, which is that Castrol is junk because they spend all their money on advertising.
 
A huge LOL to those who apparently don't have a funny bone. there is something else we can throw on the list... something amongst always having to take EVERYTHING in life as serious as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Here is another one, but this one belongs to me before I ever heard of BITOG:

5w30 means that oil is thinner when cold and thickens up as it warms up
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Honestly that's what I thought, but never bothered to verify, boy, am I glad I I found this site.



The most common grade of automotive oil in use today is the 5W/30, which is a mineral oil refined with VI additives that leave it reading as an SAE 5W viscosity when cold, yet an SAE 30W when hot (210F).

Source: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php
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Originally Posted By: kemo
The most common grade of automotive oil in use today is the 5W/30, which is a mineral oil refined with VI additives that leave it reading as an SAE 5W viscosity when cold, yet an SAE 30W when hot (210F).

Source: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php
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VERY sloppy on their part. The slash in the viscosity grade is incorrect notation, they use the letter W to mean two different things, and not all 5w-30s are based on mineral oils.
 
Originally Posted By: kemo
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Here is another one, but this one belongs to me before I ever heard of BITOG:

5w30 means that oil is thinner when cold and thickens up as it warms up
33.gif
.

Honestly that's what I thought, but never bothered to verify, boy, am I glad I I found this site.



The most common grade of automotive oil in use today is the 5W/30, which is a mineral oil refined with VI additives that leave it reading as an SAE 5W viscosity when cold, yet an SAE 30W when hot (210F).

Source: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php
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Hmmm... ok, so what are you or your quote are trying to say here?


Here is the kinematic viscosity for Petro Canada 5w-30 conventional oil:
Kinematic Viscosity D445
cSt @ 40 C - 62.3
cSt @ 100 C - 10.7

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righ back at you.

EDIT: I agree with Doodfood, very sloppy job from Blackstone indeed.
 
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