Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It should also be noted that Ali Haas has oil pressure and oil temp' gauges in all his toys and is on record stating that the minimum oil pressure spec's for an engine is the limiting factor on how light an oil one should run without crossing over into uncharted territory.
This is the part I feel a LOT of people miss, and Jim's point about "grocery getter mode", which is of course in the same vein.
Reading comprehension problems appear to be a plague of sorts. I don't know how many times I've seen somebody read "Oil 101" and come in claiming they are going to run 0w20 in their GM 502, VW TDI....etc without any mention of the intended usage of the vehicle, what their oil temps and pressure are
People really need to listen to what is being advocated here. The mantra "as thin as possible, as thick as necessary" is the message. But that doesn't appear to be what is coming across.
The other part of the equation is having the correct equipment on hand to determine what the optimal grade is. And then doing the work!
For somebody uncomfortable with finding out what the manufacturer spec's for minimum acceptable oil pressure, installing an oil pressure and oil temperature gauges and then driving their car, datalogging that information to determine if what they are running is too heavy or too light, swapping it out, and repeating the process until optimal is found, then MY suggestion is run what the manufacturer suggests! If it is 10w60, 0w40 or some other "heavy" grade, if you aren't willing to do the legwork to find out IF you can get away with something thinner, DON'T RUN SOMETHING THINNER! It really IS that simple!
On the other hand, for those willing to follow the route that you (CATERHAM) have outlined on this board a multitude of times for those seeking to find the "optimal" grade for their engine and operating conditions, and are willing to go to the necessary lengths to figure it out, well, I think those people likely already "get" the message.
My beef, and I think one that Trav is in agreement with me on here is this:
The potential for catastrophic failure is far greater running too thin an oil than one that is too thick.
If you've got two cars that spec 0w40, both owners living in Texas, both beat the tar out of their cars, which don't happen to have oil coolers, nor do they have a thermal "safety" on their oil pressure systems (Ford Mustang anyone? Interesting how Ford has an oil temperature safety "limp mode" on the 5w20 spec Mustang GT.......) and one reads "oil 101" and has the typical reading comprehension issue that I mentioned and decides he's going to run 0w20 in his car, whilst the other guy decides to run 10w60, who is at greater risk of spinning a rod bearing here? It is of course 0w20 guy. He's not only deviated from what the manufacturer suggested, but he's gone two grades lighter and didn't factor in how the vehicle was used, nor bothered to track oil pressure and temperature.
The other guy, Mr. 10w60, well, he might have given up some power. His car might be sluggish when cold. But he doesn't risk wiping out a bearing when pushing the car, not tracking his oil pressure and temperature.
The fact that this is a PROCESS is what seems to be lost on people. It isn't "dump in 0w20 and hold on!" but that's exactly the message some people seem to get from the various pieces of discourse on this topic and I think that's what is driving Trav nuts, and it bugs me too.