Going Synthetic at 2k miles, Speak Now or Forever Hold Your Peace.....

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Idrinkmotoroil

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Well I've decided to run Mobil1 10w-30 in my 04 Dodge SRT-4 as recommended in my owner's manual. I've got 2000 miles on the car as of this week, which should be fine to switch as per Redline's mileage recommendation for new engines. What do you guys think ?. Funny thing about this car. The original owners manual recommended using 10w-30 oil as the preferred fluid, with Mobil1 recommended for agressive driving or whatever they call it. After I bought the car I got an addendum from Chrysler stating that 5w-30 oil is the recommended oil since emissions and fuel testing was done with 5w-30 in the crankcase, thus they have to recommend the same oil as the used to produce the emissions and fuel mileage numbers. Seeing through that like a crystal clear window I will be using Mobil1 10w-30. Car isnt used much in winter anyhow, I take it out on dry clear days but for the most part it is stored for winter. I'd like to switch to Redline at some point in time but the manufacturer calls for 3000 mile oil change intervals. Not sure how to get around that, just in case my turbo decides to call it quits some day. If I choose to follow their recommendation I might be better off with Mobil1, if I go to 6000+ mile intervals Redline may be my choice. Well if anyone dissents on the use of Mobil1 10w-30 at the 2000 mile interval please let me know before I dump it this Sunday. thanks Joey [Canada] [ January 10, 2004, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: Idrinkmotoroil ]
 
I thought that Redline recommend not using their oil until the car had at least 3,000 miles. Why not put another 1,000 miles on the car and then change the oil?
 
well, if it came from the factory with m1 in it, then I dont see why not. However, Id recommend amsoil 5w30 since youre in the cold winters up in canada(i run the mobil 1 0w20 in my civic). Or stick with the factory recommendation of mobil 1 10w30. Redline 5w30 would also be good, but seeing it is about $7 and up, I dont see wasting your money on it if your going to be doing short oci's. Hope this helps!!!!
 
I would wait...I was always told 10 000 km.(6200 miles) You certainly won't hurt your engine by waiting a couple of thousand more clicks before switching. However, you MIGHT get less than optimal ring sealing by switching too early. I say "might", because the controversy about when to switch to a synthetic is ongoing... PS - Does anyone know if the factory synthetic fill engines are run in on the dyno, and if so, with what oil? This little piece of info would be VERY! nice to have... [Eek!]
 
I would say it depends on how the engine was broken in,some baby their car/motorcycle when it's new and put-put around under 3k rpms.I personally vary rpms/load for the 1st 100 miles to about 3/4 of max rpms(redline),change the oil then proceed to find the rev limiter.I usually wait until about 3k-5k miles for synthetic since many of todays engines seem to take awhile to "loosen" up.
 
quote:
Originally posted by HOndaGuy: Redline 5w30 would also be good, but seeing it is about $7 and up, I dont see wasting your money on it if your going to be doing short oci's. Hope this helps!!!!
Redline in Canada costs twice as much (or more) as Mobil 1 does!
 
this is why I posted here, lots of great if not varying opinions. yeah I could wait another 1000 miles easily, not a bad idea, but with it being a turbo I didnt want to wait too long. But I am using Castrol GTX now with "unsurpassed protection against viscosity breakdown !" . he, he,he. I dont drive it in the winter much unless I just take it for a spin to keep things lubricated every week or so. It sits in a partially heated garage around 50-60 degrees coldest it gets. German Castrol is tempting too, but I have to assure myself it is a real synthetic and none of that group 3 stuff still floating around inside of it . I have used it with good success in the last car though. This car does not come from the factory with synthetic oil, some rumours that it did but not likely. The manual recommends Mobil1 for aggressive driving and regular oil for normal driving -whatever that is. It is my thinking that the factory breaks in the motor in some manner when they send it out with synthetic oil on some of the high end cars. Just my opinion. thanks guys. Joey
 
quote:
German Castrol is tempting too, but I have to assure myself it is a real synthetic and none of that group 3 stuff still floating around inside of it . I have used it with good success in the last car though.
We'll find out for sure if it's group 3 or not when we get the real VOA back, but I highly doubt it is. For one, it's sold as a full synthetic overseas. Plus it is very hard to create a good shear stable group 3 0w30 oil, and this oil has proven to hold it's viscosity well.
 
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It is my thinking that the factory breaks in the motor in some manner
The only issue with switching to synth has to do with ring seating. This may or may not mean that the engine is trough its "break in" period. One machinist offered (he didn't know) that those vehicles with factory fill synth are machined (honed ) differently. It takes all of about 10 miles to seat rings using a number of accelleration/coast cycles with a healthy throttle. This has been old news for longer than I've been alive. Better machining and manufacturing refinments have made it mostly unnecessary. There's also the issue of trying to educate the (m)asses on how to do it properly without killing themselves and each other.
 
I'd stick with M1 10w-30 or try Amsoil's 10w-30. Test both and see what does better. [Smile]
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
quote:
German Castrol is tempting too, but I have to assure myself it is a real synthetic and none of that group 3 stuff still floating around inside of it . I have used it with good success in the last car though.
We'll find out for sure if it's group 3 or not when we get the real VOA back, but I highly doubt it is. For one, it's sold as a full synthetic overseas. Plus it is very hard to create a good shear stable group 3 0w30 oil, and this oil has proven to hold it's viscosity well.
Patman, what will the VOA show to indicate Group 4/5 synthetic vs. Group 3 ?. I had a VOA done of GC when I had my Civic , but maybe it wasnt a good quality lab VOA. Joey [ January 10, 2004, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: Idrinkmotoroil ]
 
This VOA I'm referring to is not your typical one, but a full indepth one which costs about $400 and includes a MASS SPEC and GC (Gas Chromatography) so it can tell what the base oil is made from. We're waiting on Asmodeus's friend to do this for us, he's got the oil, but the machine which does the testing was down.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman: This VOA I'm referring to is not your typical one, but a full indepth one which costs about $400 and includes a MASS SPEC and GC (Gas Chromatography) so it can tell what the base oil is made from. We're waiting on Asmodeus's friend to do this for us, he's got the oil, but the machine which does the testing was down.
Exellent, mos Excellent. Good work !. cant wait to see how things work out. Joey
 
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