Give me Race Oil Recommendations

3rdGenGuy said:
I appreciate the oil recommendations.
I added them to my list.
I can definitely test two or three of those in a race season for sure.
Just got a bulk order of Wix from Rock Auto as well. I'm ready.

As far as the 275F oil temps, I have a fairly sizable oil cooler.
I'm working on a custom radiator shroud that allows more air to flow through it at higher speeds.
I think my current C5 Corvette radiator fan/shroud is inhibiting air flow above 80mph.
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interesting, what do your coolant temps look like, that is a large oil cooler
 
BrendanC said:
interesting, what do your coolant temps look like, that is a large oil cooler
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After modifying the C5 Corvette fan combo with 7x SPAL flaps, LS1 temps dropped from 240f to 220F.
Lowered oil temps by about 10F.
And that's the max temp after pushing 20min on Hoosier A7 slicks.
I'm hoping my new fan shroud combo will work.
It basically incorporates 20x bypass flaps for high speed cooling.

Blackstone Labs said that the Red Line oil wasn't damaged by the temperature so I guess I'm not too far gone.
I'd be nice to see 250F oil and 200f engine though.

Screenshot_20241102_102722_Gallery.webp
 
Mobil 1 10W-30 : the PDS or website doesn't state the HTHS viscosity, bt it's a resource conserving oil, the HTHS will be well below 3.5 cP. That's going to be why it couldn't handle the wear generated at those high oil temps.
 
3rdGenGuy said:
After modifying the C5 Corvette fan combo with 7x SPAL flaps, LS1 temps dropped from 240f to 220F.
Lowered oil temps by about 10F.
And that's the max temp after pushing 20min on Hoosier A7 slicks.
I'm hoping my new fan shroud combo will work.
It basically incorporates 20x bypass flaps for high speed cooling.

Blackstone Labs said that the Red Line oil wasn't damaged by the temperature so I guess I'm not too far gone.
I'd be nice to see 250F oil and 200f engine though.

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the flaps absolutely should help get higher speed air through the rad. if you could also rig up fan control vs speed above a certain speed the fan actually hinders air flow when powered on.

Nice setup, looks really nice!
 
JimPghPA said:
I think motorcycle oils are still being designed to not shear much when being abused by transmission gears and wet clutch when used in bikes that share the crank oil with those components.

When an oil add pack is chosen often there are compromises that have to be made to get all the different additives to work together. Adding ability to not shear MAY have required less than optimum selection of other additives that improve other properties.

A tracked car engine probably would see no benefit from an oil being shear resistant. And there are other areas of oil protection that oils with add packages not concerned about shear may be able to better optimize.

Therefore, even though a good motorcycle oil has a lot going for it, it may not be the best choice for a sometimes tracked car engine.
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Why?

A High quality Motorcycle oil, Made of real Group IV PAO, should most likely contain more shearstable VII Improves, a extra pack of EP additives for use with the gerbox, and more anti foaming additives meant for use in a high reving engine and the gearbox. Motorcycle oils have a low TBN, meant for short intervalls, but that´s O.K. Some contain less calcium, wich results in lowerd desposits, if i have understand it right. The add pack of a motorcycle oil should be custom tailored for a high reving Gasoline engine.

The lack of friction Modifiers? Add a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec, done.

There are even high quality, race proven, Group IV Motorcycle oils out there wich carrys a API SP appooval and have a Mid-saps add pack. If i remember correctly, years ago the VOA of the german FUCHS top of the line Motorcycle oil and the racing oil for cars looked identically, like twins.

I wonder what the experts like Molakule and the guys from HPL have to say about the use of High quality Motorcycle oil in a high reving, demanding sports car and the similarities of Motorcycle oils and car racing oils.
 
ChristianReske said:
Why?

A High quality Motorcycle oil, Made of real Group IV PAO, should most likely contain more shearstable VII Improves, a extra pack of EP additives for use with the gerbox, and more anti foaming additives meant for use in a high reving engine and the gearbox. Motorcycle oils have a low TBN, meant for short intervalls, but that´s O.K. Some contain less calcium, wich results in lowerd desposits, if i have understand it right. The add pack of a motorcycle oil should be custom tailored for a high reving Gasoline engine.

The lack of friction Modifiers? Add a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec, done.

There are even high quality, race proven, Group IV Motorcycle oils out there wich carrys a API SP appooval and have a Mid-saps add pack. If i remember correctly, years ago the VOA of the german FUCHS top of the line Motorcycle oil and the racing oil for cars looked identically, like twins.

I wonder what the experts like Molakule and the guys from HPL have to say about the use of High quality Motorcycle oil in a high reving, demanding sports car and the similarities of Motorcycle oils and car racing oils.
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Fuchs buys mPAO from XOM - could be used as a VM …
 
97prizm said:
How about Royal Purple 10w-40? They make a race version as well. This is what I've used in my RX-7 race car.
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Would need to get the HPS version, noting special about the walmart shelf oil they sell.
I use HPS in drag racing but I don't ever get close to those oil temps.
 
I use Mobil 1 5w50 that NAPA consistently has on sale for my HPDE Mustang GT. I’m comfortable running the oil up to 260F but try to keep it below that.
 
Marcozi said:
Pablo said:
Mainly people like HPL on BITOG because it holds it's TBN quite well. I fail to see what that has to do with this racing situation, and not knocking HPL, but BITOG has it's favorites and will push the favorites.

If wanting to stick with SAE 30: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-dominator-10w-30-100-synthetic-racing-oil-rd30/?zo=515729

BTW, I'm not against using a motorcycle oil
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Thanks. I’m just trying to understand since there might be technical reasons for one oil formulation over another. Of course, there are recommendations for other BRANDS and those are largely useless. A specific MODEL of oil makes more sense because it hints at the formulation + viscosity.

Others have eluded to what it’s important, temperature and viscosity, but not much said about a formulation for specific usage. As I understand it, you want the viscosity at operating temperature to be as low as possible without sacrificing wear. In my usage, this has meant moving to a -50 oil if I plan to do more than one or two track days AND if I want to go 10/10ths. Otherwise my oil temps don’t go much higher than 125C.

Fuel also matters and forced induction as well. A drag racer will want completely different formulations than I do. Thus far, my best results were on Amsoil Dominator 15w-50 and Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-40 (for winter). Otherwise cam wear is excessive.

So if HPL has a unique formulation or some insight into racing, I’d like to hear it! Especially if it’s cheaper but I have my doubts because I get Amsoil at cost.
 
Most people here know HPL for the long drain intervals because it's applicable. There's not nearly as many racers here, but racing oils is HPL's bread and butter in the automotive market. They expanded into the PCMO/HDMO market from the racing market, and they apply things they learn on the racing side to the PCMO/HDMO side.
 
Happily using HPL 5W40 Euro in my VW on track. Last year did 8 track days for 8.5K mi on a fill. Oil looked fine (UOA posted in UOA section). Wagon is >200hp/liter (~400hp/1.8L). Oil temps between 260 and 280 F depending on ambients. HPL. Amsoil. Redline. Really your V8 probably wouldn't care if it used any major brand "norm" oil either as I'm guessing the power density isn't there.
 
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I’m making 280hp at the crank from a 1.4L stroker. The engine revs to 7700RPM (up from 6-6.5k depending on conditions). I race at Calabogie Motorsports park (Multimatic remote HQ is there) and plenty of autocross.
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
What harm would it cause in a car engine?
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They're not necessarily lacking in friction modifiers, it's just different types of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils are formulated with wet clutches in mind so you have static and dynamic friction targets. Friction modifier is a general term with some frictions modifiers reducing friction and others increasing friction. They're deployed as needed.

As for what harm it will cause an engine, likely none. It's just not an ideal choice.
 
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