Gear oil or ATF on guns?

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I was under the impression that it was USED oil that was the carcinogen, not FRESH oil.

As per the back of the bottle of Mobil 1 0w-40 I have on my desk here:

Originally Posted By: XOM
Caution: Continuous contact with used motor oil has caused skin cancer in laboratory animals. In case of contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
I get all mine free too....lol
Say whatever to cover your butt, for you are good at it.


Clue us all in.... What am I "covering"?


It's fine to change your mind everyday, if you like... including gun oil likes/dislikes.
It's also fine to find a poor excuse when caught red-handed.

I am done with this. Do / say / change your mind......etc..... all you like. I really don't care.
 
I will put my 2 cents in this thread.. I'm in no way an expert, just a layman.

Guns do not require extreme lubrication. They require very minimal lube. The less the better. Mobil 1 synthetic, ATF, Gear oils, etc are all made with specific functions in mind. As such they have the correct viscosity and added chemicals to do the job that they are advertised to do. Gun oil may just be regular mineral oil, but it won't have all that added stuff that you don't need, and don't want getting all over your range bag, hands etc. I don't want motor oil all over my hands when shooting, but a little bit of non-toxic mineral oil I won't mind. Also if it gets on your hands.. guess what you probably used too much.

As for me.. I'll leave the ATF fluid for my transmissions, my motor oil in my motors, and gear oil in my gears. Regular old gun oil (mineral oil) works just fine and doesn't smell, is good for the wood stocks etc. and is non-toxic. I'll just use that.

I actually like ballistol, (except for the horrid smell). It's plain old mineral oil with a few additives to prevent oxidizing. Works great, and is the correct viscosity for general gun use.. even though it's a little pricier than just grabbing that bottle of plain old mineral oil.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JRoDDz
Guns do not require extreme lubrication. They require very minimal lube. The less the better.


Not true with AR-15's.


For my AR.. I use ballistol and a touch or super lube grease on the BCG rails (piston AR which gets minimally dirty)
 
I settled this choice for myself a few years ago. After a lifetime of shooting, and cleaning guns, I found most things withing reason work well, yeah some a bit better than others. I don't use gun specific lubes in enough of a quantity to make me worry about cost, as I can afford whatever I like. Here's my choices and why.
Requirements:
1) must be at least fairly safe for me, my skin, etc. I won't use really bad actors anymore. I'm not going to name names here, but no rust protection, it must not let my gun rust. I don't mean over ten years of storage, but over a period of a few weeks at a time.
4) No miracle lubes, they're mostly just hype!

Choices:
1) Balistol, does most things well and is actually good for you.
2) Hoppe's standard oil, good, solid plain oil, no fuss no muss, no hype.
3) Slip2000, good on all accounts, no smell, synthetic, if you think that helps, and seems to work as well as anything I've ever used.
4) For really stubborn dirt I will use WD40 or Sweets or something like that, but only in a have to case and never often. I've seldom needed it and usually will resort to JB Bore paste or something else that will do the same thing.
 
Originally Posted By: JRoDDz


Guns do not require extreme lubrication. They require very minimal lube. The less the better. Mobil 1 synthetic, ATF, Gear oils, etc are all made with specific functions in mind. As such they have the correct viscosity and added chemicals to do the job that they are advertised to do. Gun oil may just be regular mineral oil, but it won't have all that added stuff that you don't need, and don't want getting all over your range bag, hands etc.


I agree. If you shot a box of ammo per week, a typical pistol slide will travel roughly 10,000 inches/year. A piston in my car engine travels that distance in about 30 seconds on the highway. Pistol lube is not really rocket science.

If I were formulating a gun oil I would choose a relatively stable base oil (Grp II or III, or Grp IV if cold) and use only three additives: a dash of a anti-oxidant, a pinch of a yellow metal inhibitor, and a smidgen of an anti-rust (one that doubles as an extreme pressure additive). You really don't need the detergents, dispersants, VI improvers, anti-foam, seal conditioners, pour point depressants, and friction modifiers used in motor oils. That's not to say that motor oil would not work fine, they are just overkill and not optimized for the application.

That said, motor oil is cheap and usually resides in excess in our garage, so no harm if you don't mind all of the unnecessary additives on your hands.

Tom NJ
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: JRoDDz
Guns do not require extreme lubrication. They require very minimal lube. The less the better.


Not true with AR-15's.
I've found that light application of lube is best for low-volume shooting (
Part of the reliability situation with the M4 type rifle is the "springing" and the geometry of the weapon cycling.

With the M4 type rifle, the BCG only has about 3/4" of momentum-room before it strips a round from the magazine. The cam-pin track is also much "sharper" than other designs, which means that more friction occurs during the lock-up process.

The two ways to overcome this are more spring, and more mass. Spring equates to pressure and velocity, and mass equates to adding some momentum to that.

I have gone to the Vltor A5 system, and run a 5.2oz buffer (standard for that system), along with a Sprinco "Green" spring.

Before I transitioned to the "Green" spring from Sprinco, I would get intermittant failures to chamber when using the bolt-release. I have experienced this using the Carbine RE and mil-spec carbine springs, as well, so it's not a "Vltor" thing, and I have experienced that on multiple M4 types. When a Sprinco White (supposedly the same as the mil-spec compression rate/strength) was subbed, the failures were cut in half. Going to the Sprinco Blue eliminated them. The same was seen when I went with the Sprinco "Green" in the Vltor system.

When adding mass and spring to the system, you also create unintended consequences, the main one being that the weapon won't cycle "weak" ammo as well, and that you get more "muzzle dip" when the carrier returns to battery. The Vltor A5 system has mitigated both of these in my experience. With a Sprinco Blue and H2 buffer, I was getting significant muzzle-dip With the Vltor A5 and "Green" spring and 5.2oz A5 buffer, I get virtually none. The more coils in the spring allow it to more effectively accept, store, and release energy. The rifle runs un-suppressed with Tula, and suppressed with MK262 and 70gr "Browntip" (the hottest stuff I've ever shot, 70gr @2900fps from my 16.1" rifle, suppressed) just fine. The A5 system "broadens" the performance envelope, if you will.

The next thing I did, was change over to a QPQ'ed bolt-carrier group. It is very smooth/slick, and the contact points don't get much carbon build-up, as you can see. I have found that over time, when it gets dirty and dry, it still keeps running, as the slick and polished contact points don't slow things down too bad. (see photos).

Long story short, lube will reduce friction by suspending fouling, which is what causes friction. The metal-on-metal in the M4 causes VERY LITTLE friction. Add fouling, though, and it gets gritty. The best performing lubes are the ones that "stay wet" the best, and suspend fouling for the longest. If they break the fouling down a bit, all the better.

This is where the "lube science" and all that jazz comes in. I have noticed HUGE differences in rifle function with a weapon that is running mil-spec components, when varying the lube used. Set the gun up like I have mine set up, and about the only thing you notice is how easy it is to clean, or not. However, there is a massive difference in products I have used, regarding this.


Here is my rifle's after a 1500+ round course (lubed lightly initially with MPRO7 LPX, and not lubed or cleaned during the course), shooting Wolf Polyformance suppressed about 98% of the time. It still functioned un-suppressed, near the end of day 3 (final day). A correctly set up gun will run very well, even dirty...

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What is the point of discussing lubricants, if every picture you post of your weapons shows them being run bone dry? That is not meant as a slam, but common sense. If I allowed all of the oil in my engine to leak out, what difference would it matter which oil I had in it when it ran dry?

It takes seconds to lube an AR-15 rifle when shooting it at the range.... Which is where ALL civilians use them. What "operators do in the field" means nothing. I'm just not understanding your logic of talking about how this or that lubricant performs "better", when there isn't a single drop of ANY of it anywhere on the weapon?
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
What is the point of discussing lubricants, if every picture you post of your weapons shows them being run bone dry? That is not meant as a slam, but common sense. If I allowed all of the oil in my engine to leak out, what difference would it matter which oil I had in it when it ran dry?

It takes seconds to lube an AR-15 rifle when shooting it at the range.... Which is where ALL civilians use them. What "operators do in the field" means nothing. I'm just not understanding your logic of talking about how this or that lubricant performs "better", when there isn't a single drop of ANY of it anywhere on the weapon?
Well, the weapon started off lubed...

My main point in bringing up what I did was that friction reduction from lubricant itself, via EP, and teflon, and all that jazz...really doesn't matter much on this platform. On some others, it might, but not on this one. What matters is how long it stays wet and how well it suspends and breaks down fouling, (See my rifle above, the MPRO7 LPX headed for the hills pretty soon, too. It was running "dry" for at least all of day 3), and how easily they allow you to clean the weapon. Why does the latter matter? Because I clean my rifle. Some people don't, and that's fine, it actually does work fine. However, I do, so that's a matrice I look at.
 
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Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
Any oil you use will end up on your skin form handling. You're better off with an FDA-approved oil/grease like Superlube.

Unless you're immune from cancer.
What about the soot lead etc from the primer,powder and the bullet?
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
Any oil you use will end up on your skin form handling. You're better off with an FDA-approved oil/grease like Superlube.

Unless you're immune from cancer.
What about the soot lead etc from the primer,powder and the bullet?


Yes, but why add to it? That's like saying "My car still pollutes, even with emissions equipment, so why do I need to have catalytic converters at all?"
 
Originally Posted By: Tom NJ
JRoDDz said:
If I were formulating a gun oil I would choose a relatively stable base oil (Grp II or III, or Grp IV if cold) and use only three additives: a dash of a anti-oxidant, a pinch of a yellow metal inhibitor, and a smidgen of an anti-rust (one that doubles as an extreme pressure additive).

Tom NJ


Actually you are GTG with chainsaw bar oil
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: CT8
Do we know what actually makes a gun oil a gun oil?


That's the $64,000 question I have yet to hear answered.


Repacked hydraulic/machining oil...iso vg32..or vg46
smile.gif


Or air tool oil...
 
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Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: CT8
Do we know what actually makes a gun oil a gun oil?


That's the $64,000 question I have yet to hear answered.


Repacked hydraulic/machining oil...iso vg32..or vg46
smile.gif


Or air tool oil...


Or in the case of "Lucas Gun Oil".... Repackaged ATF.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: CT8
Do we know what actually makes a gun oil a gun oil?


That's the $64,000 question I have yet to hear answered.


Repacked hydraulic/machining oil...iso vg32..or vg46
smile.gif


Or air tool oil...


Or in the case of "Lucas Gun Oil".... Repackaged ATF.


Bill

Lucas Oil is as thin / runny as ATF Fluid?

I often wondered if a few of those red-colored fishing reel oils aren't ATF Fluid.
The yellow fishing reel oils have me totally stumped. I wonder if they use a dye in those.
 
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