Gasoline Direct Injection causes Chain Wear, Fuel Dilution, and Low Speed Pre-ignition (LSPI)?

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Are there many (timing) belt in oil arrangements out there? Can someone name some?

Can not. My 2018 has a timing chain. I just decided to use the oil I use and if I see (think) dillution is bad between changes... I will pull some out with my pump and replace with about 1/2 a quart of fresh until time for next change. My dilution only gets noticable in cold weather. Other times not so much. When we got the car... I found out the Dealership were lying trash. This "Honda Certified Used" car they claimed to have serviced and changed the oil in got home with 52psi in one tire and 48in one with 44 in the two front with the TPMS on. So I checked & reset the TPMS then decided I better look things over. It had an entire quart too much oil/gas? in it. Ugh. I changed oil immediately and been on top of it checking at least 2 times a week and dropped oci to 3000 to 3500 miles. Did not even return to that dealership for my one year of free oil changes. Don't trust them after they could not even air the tires correctly. Got a private local auto shop owned by two guys I been knowing for 40 years if I need work done. Guys are so nice and honest for years they would tell me how to go home and do repairs myself to save some bucks. Bring them all my work now that I can't. LOL... They thought about closing down to retire and the town had a fit. They decided to hire some young guys and stay open!
Documenting and keeping records and waiting on some UOA reports to place in glove box with all maintenance records just in case. The car actually is a dream to drive and there is zero indication of any loss of performance from the oil dillution everyone (me too at first) are so worked up about. The Di Turbo oil dillution is real and there is nothing to do about it short of getting rid of your vehicles.... Honda says they fixed the problem but that is not true. Am I sorry we bought the car? YES... It is the first time I caved into the wife and did not research first and let her talk me into buying one the very first / same day we went to look. After she kept her last one 18 years I figured she deserved to call the shot on this one.

 

[Accent Abuser]

Change your oil every 3-5k, run a bottle of techron every OCI, and clean your intake valves every 10k and you should have no problems with GDI. If you're worried about chain wear use the thickest possible oil for your anticipated starting temps.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Change your oil every 3-5k, run a bottle of techron every OCI, and clean your intake valves every 10k and you should have no problems with GDI. If you're worried about chain wear use the thickest possible oil for your anticipated starting temps.

Thanks. That is the exact advice a Honda service tech and the manager (both I been knowing over 20 years) advised me to do. In the past their advice has saved me lots of money.

 

[tyman]

Change your oil every 3-5k, run a bottle of techron every OCI, and clean your intake valves every 10k and you should have no problems with GDI. If you're worried about chain wear use the thickest possible oil for your anticipated starting temps.

Cleaning the intake valves every 10k???

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Cleaning the intake valves every 10k???

I think I know what he meant. Short of opening the motor or paying $100 or more to a shop to do the real chemical cleaning, doing something is better than nothing , better than praying the intake valves stay clean. My Honda service manager , a friend since 1997, who has advised and saved me lots of money for years says (most shops are not really doing much for that cost). He advised me that putting a top tier fuel along with a frequent, good chemical cleaner in the fuel IS something to do without spending lots of money. He has not been wrong yet so hard to dismiss the advice.

 

[ChrisD46]

Here is your every 10K ~ 12K intake valve cleaner for GDI engines : CRC Intake Valve Cleaner .

 

[Accent Abuser]

Here is your every 10K ~ 12K intake valve cleaner for GDI engines : CRC Intake Valve Cleaner .

Or pretty much any other aerosol top engine cleaner. I have over 185k on my Hyundai Accent GDI and I use full SAPS oils. A $10-$15 can of cleaner regularly is much better than a $700 tear down and walnut blasting.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Lets throw some cold water & humor at things friends. Not sure I want this company to do anything for me!?? Cleaning intakes.....
Do they know where the engine valves are located? Did they hire a college communications or graphic design major to add a photo
to their article and then just not check or edit?

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[doublebase]

My last two vehicles were direct injection. Both were oil burners. I tried to keep the intervals at around 5,000 miles, didn’t really help. I tried bumping the viscosity up in one of them, didn’t help. Timing chain at that point was the least of my worries, the oil tracking into my intake and coating my valves were my primary concern. Installed a catch can, caught oil, probably a lot of water too. And if I had just let it all run as designed? Probably would have given same “results”. Because I don’t know what those “results” were. Were my valves cleaner because of that can? I don’t know, I never checked and I never compared. I have to wonder if the water I was catching in that can COULD POSSIBLY HAVE helped if it WERE allowed to enter the intake (And perhaps clean those valves a bit).

Right now I have a port injected engine. A 2016 Avalon, and it’s like a fresh breath of air compared to my last two vehicles. I don’t add oil between intervals. I don’t get the low speed preignition sensation of an engine that feels like it’s fish biting until it warms up. I don’t get random misfire codes. I don’t get hesitation and the excuse of “you must have gotten some bad fuel”. I now go to the exact same gas stations (and top tier to boot), and I don’t have anymore issues that I had with my previous two vehicles. Those gas stations must now be running better fuel. Lol. I just start this car up and rive 500 miles a week, not wondering what’s causing anything because it doesn’t do anything but drive perfectly up and down every road I put it on, while not using oil. It’s refreshing and actually a little boring.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

My last two vehicles were direct injection. Both were oil burners. I tried to keep the intervals at around 5,000 miles, didn’t really help. I tried bumping the viscosity up in one of them, didn’t help. Timing chain at that point was the least of my worries, the oil tracking into my intake and coating my valves were my primary concern. Installed a catch can, caught oil, probably a lot of water too. And if I had just let it all run as designed? Probably would have given same “results”. Because I don’t know what those “results” were. Were my valves cleaner because of that can? I don’t know, I never checked and I never compared. I have to wonder if the water I was catching in that can COULD POSSIBLY HAVE helped if it WERE allowed to enter the intake (And perhaps clean those valves a bit).

Right now I have a port injected engine. A 2016 Avalon, and it’s like a fresh breath of air compared to my last two vehicles. I don’t add oil between intervals. I don’t get the low speed preignition sensation of an engine that feels like it’s fish biting until it warms up. I don’t get random misfire codes. I don’t get hesitation and the excuse of “you must have gotten some bad fuel”. I now go to the exact same gas stations (and top tier to boot), and I don’t have anymore issues that I had with my previous two vehicles. Those gas stations must now be running better fuel. Lol. I just start this car up and rive 500 miles a week, not wondering what’s causing anything because it doesn’t do anything but drive perfectly up and down every road I put it on, while not using oil. It’s refreshing and actually a little boring.

Happy things worked out for you. I still have a non DI car I like to drive. One is one is not Di. I actually like driving both of them. So far I can say the DI has been a good one too. Yes, oil dillution a couple times in 12 months depending on the weather. In hot times it is almost undetectable. I will be getting UOA for several times across a 12 month period out of curiosity to prove to myself what is going on under the hood. Enjoy your rides.

 

[Kira]

above is said, "... and clean your intake valves every 10k and you should have no problems with GDI."
1) Most, if not all, DI engines need this intake valve cleaning, yes?
2) Where do you spray it? Throttle body or any vacuum port?
3) Is our 2019 Mazda CX-5 2.5l Skyacyiv a DI engine? Ha, I know my '05 Ranger 4.0l and '07 Volvo 2.4 NA aren't.

 

[wpod]

We need to learn to discern.

 

[doublebase]

Happy things worked out for you. I still have a non DI car I like to drive. One is one is not Di. I actually like driving both of them. So far I can say the DI has been a good one too. Yes, oil dillution a couple times in 12 months depending on the weather. In hot times it is almost undetectable. I will be getting UOA for several times across a 12 month period out of curiosity to prove to myself what is going on under the hood. Enjoy your rides.

I think DI has improved some since I’ve owned my first one. I currently have none in my garage, but I’d buy another...probably wouldn’t have a choice anyway. And like you, I did enjoy some of the benefits for sure...power, fuel economy. When they are running right they have some real advantages.

I’d like my next one to have any easy to remove intake manifold, so I could clean those valves whenever I wanted, and check up on how things are going.

 

[Flyingdutchman]

just a few that i remember. list is probably longer.
timing belt, or at least having oil pump wet belt..
psa puretech1,2 (gdi versions way more often problems)
ford ecoboost 1,0 (more examples on german forums)
honda 1,0vtec t (mixed situation across europe)

Beiträge von Jean_Luc - Peugeot-Talk, das Forum für Peugeot und PSA Motoren

www.peugeottalk.de

I heard that often the mistake is made that non oem dealers use oil off the shelf with the wrong spec, these additieves deteriorate the belts quickly.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Great YT video "3 Big Problems With Direct Injection Engines (Gasoline)"

How Gasoline Direct Injection causes Chain Wear, Fuel Dilution, and Low Speed Pre-ignition (LSPI)



Recommendation to use API SP or ILSAC GF-6A rated oils for modern engines.

What do you guys think about using this grade of oil for older cars, say 2009 and earlier?

Backwards compatible, better dispersant package. nothing but improvement.

 

[sk_pete]

I heard that often the mistake is made that non oem dealers use oil off the shelf with the wrong spec, these additieves deteriorate the belts quickly.

i hope this is joke, because when i brought my own oil in spec, i´ve been told that he cannot guarantee-and dont knows whats inside...
using it will void warranty... new canister, sealed....

 

[Flyingdutchman]

i hope this is joke, because when i brought my own oil in spec, i´ve been told that he cannot guarantee-and dont knows whats inside...
using it will void warranty... new canister, sealed....

I mean off the shelf like what they just carry in bulk in their shop. Low end all makes garages just carry 5w30 and 5w40 in bulk and put it in everything. They only look at viscosity.

 

[sk_pete]

stealerships-- i hope and presume; they buying drums with recommeded oil.
since it´s so hard/impossible to be present in the service area, i can´t confirm what they really have there..

 

[Accent Abuser]

above is said, "... and clean your intake valves every 10k and you should have no problems with GDI."
1) Most, if not all, DI engines need this intake valve cleaning, yes?
2) Where do you spray it? Throttle body or any vacuum port?
3) Is our 2019 Mazda CX-5 2.5l Skyacyiv a DI engine? Ha, I know my '05 Ranger 4.0l and '07 Volvo 2.4 NA aren't.

Vacuum line works if you have a MAF. If it's a MAP sensor engine right down the hose works for me.

 

[TiGeo]

73K and just had them cleaned on my Sportwagen...only because I was having the water pump done. Don't look bad at all. Save your money and just drive your car hard...haha. This is all full-SAPS oil.