Critic via his postings is quite the master. We do have some wonderful talent posting here.
Form a gasket fail
- Thread starter LeakySeals
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Another issue I have is getting the holes lined up without disturbing the RTV bead too much. That may be an issue too.
Just did the WP on my truck. Hung it from 2 studs, installed the lower bolts, removed studs then installed upper bolts.
Did the same thing when I did my lower intake manifold gaskets a few years ago. Had 2 at each corners on opposite sides. Dropped the intake on then started installed bolts at the other corners.
Just did the WP on my truck. Hung it from 2 studs, installed the lower bolts, removed studs then installed upper bolts.
Did the same thing when I did my lower intake manifold gaskets a few years ago. Had 2 at each corners on opposite sides. Dropped the intake on then started installed bolts at the other corners.
I used the ultra black. I did not leave the sump empty for 24 hours. I added oil at the end of the day so maybe 6 hours. Not sure how much that matters because I can imagine oil was dripping down from above the whole time.
Took the pan off. It was on there good until it wasn't. Flew off hit me in the face on the oil side lol. Check this out. All the gasket material stuck to the block but not the new pan. Which is not the way I put it on. Maybe the pan needs to be scruffed up?
Also wow did that oil get dirty in less than 200 miles. Mobil 1 was cleaning it up
Also wow did that oil get dirty in less than 200 miles. Mobil 1 was cleaning it up
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It's a brand new eBay pan. Buy another one? It looks to me like the RTV didn't stick to the new paint job. It's stuck real good to the upper pan or block whatever you want to call it
oops I missed that part, sorry
I meant the one that has a gasket included, so you don't have to mess with RTV again
Maybe you can ask the seller if they can sell you only the gasket without having to buy yet another pan!
That is called E Coat, you have to scuff it first on any area you want to put RTV or paint on. Scuff the lip it with 320 wet and dry then clean it good with IPA or brake cleaner.
Ultra black is supposed to be Permatex most oil resistant RTV but you have to let it sit 24 hrs before putting oil in the pan, do not let it sit before tightening the bolts just put the pan up and tighten it. I use it to seal oil level sensors instead of removing the pan to fit a new O ring and it holds up.
Thank you, but hardly compared to clinebarger, trav, mightymousetech, timthemastertech and some of the others.
Yeah that's part of the problem here because I am partially obstructed by the subframe. It needs to go up and then over. So here it is. I didn't have fine sandpaper on hand so the girlfriend recommended a green scruffy on the pan.
Before I do this just confirming I don't want to slather it just a bead in the channel indent and around the bolts correct?
Before I do this just confirming I don't want to slather it just a bead in the channel indent and around the bolts correct?
Attachments
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Altima/2006/em.pdf
EM-28 (page 28), that is the official repair manual.
What are you thanking me for?
Ive said many times in this forum I’m a hobbyist. I’m not a master tech nor do I do anything of the sort for a living.
Thanks (I guess?) for comparing me to them, but I’m failing to see your point after I just offered advice to the OP.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I think he was quoting wpod (see his post) and accidentally quoted yours.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
No, you aren't wrong, he did quote you, but I think he clicked the wrong post. It makes more sense if he was trying to quote wpod.
Sorry, I quoted the wrong post. I meant to quote @wpod
I don't recall exactly which but one of the proprietary sealants (I think Hondabond?) says to put it on and assemble the parts but not to torque the fasteners all the way until after it's set for a bit, (maybe 30 minutes?)
Is it fixed?
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