Form a gasket fail

Yep, this - although I’ve had plenty of success with just the permatex black.

I always check to see if a lubelocker gasket is available first- then FIPG/permatex black.

I have my trans pan coming up and I’m debating rtv black or one of the available aftermarket gaskets.
Most car makers have switched to liquid gaskets now in many applications to stop leaks. Solid gaskets can leak from both sides, especially if the metals they are sealing are dissimilar like aluminum blocks and steel oil pans which expand at different rates. RTV effectively bonds the two parts together (when applied correctly) reducing those two sides to effectively zero sides for superior leak prevention.
 
I checked and lubelocker doesn’t offer one for my tacoma. I’m talking about the Fram/wiz/etc aftermarket gaskets

I’ve used the lube locker on ford Rear diffs and a few other things though.
Too bad the LubeLocker isn't available, I'd still opt for a gasket though.
 
If it squeezes out like that, you're laying it on too thick. 2-3 mm bead max is all you need.

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I use gaskets on rear end covers.
 
Most car makers have switched to liquid gaskets now in many applications to stop leaks. Solid gaskets can leak from both sides, especially if the metals they are sealing are dissimilar like aluminum blocks and steel oil pans which expand at different rates. RTV effectively bonds the two parts together (when applied correctly) reducing those two sides to effectively zero sides for superior leak prevention.
They use it for ease of assembly and keeping sealing parts inventory down. It works better in some applications than others but IMO never as well as a physical good quality gasket (not cork or rubber cork, etc) or a poly sealant like Hylomar or an anaerobic on flanges and would never be my first choice unless there were no alternative eg intake front and rear FIP intake seals.
RTV is not very resistant to many fluids that are common to some engine oils and fluids, ester being one of them, it tends to get soggy and leak over time.

Hylomar and anaerobics are not well suited to gap filling so it is not optimal for pans. The area where mixed metal castings cause gasket issues is the head not so much parts in the lower engine areas and transmissions, gaskets have been used for decades on transmission pans and the reusable ones have proven the best there is, better than any sealer.
Oil pans gaskets with a double sealing bead of urethane are mostly leak free for the life of the car.

To each their own, those that like it and use it all the more power to them.
 
A lot of what I said is in that, I didn't mean rtv should be use on a head gasket it was just an example of dissimilar metals that put a strain on the gaskets hence the use of coated MLS gaskets.
 
At the engine factory, RTV/anaerobic sealant is applied by robot or pneumatic application tools to precise bead width. And in many cases, there’s a robot or job aid helping guide the parts to be sealed to perfect alignment and torque.

It’s repeatable as well on the assembly line.
 
Most car makers have switched to liquid gaskets now in many applications to stop leaks. Solid gaskets can leak from both sides, especially if the metals they are sealing are dissimilar like aluminum blocks and steel oil pans which expand at different rates. RTV effectively bonds the two parts together (when applied correctly) reducing those two sides to effectively zero sides for superior leak prevention.
I’m going to have to ask what is a liquid gasket? Do you mean like a gasket made with RTV? I’m sorry I’ve just never heard that term before.
 
The hardest part of RTV with an oil pan installed with the engine in chassis is getting the oil off of the parts the mating surfaced have to be cans of brake clean dry as The Critic posted at work the industrial engines had RTV for gaskets and everyone would get call backs because the surfaces weren't perfectly oil free..
 
The hardest part of RTV with an oil pan installed with the engine in chassis is getting the oil off of the parts the mating surfaced have to be cans of brake clean dry as The Critic posted at work the industrial engines had RTV for gaskets and everyone would get call backs because the surfaces weren't perfectly oil free..
I watched The Critic reseal an lower oil pan on a Lexus RX. I can attest to him using quite a bit of brake cleaner to clean both surfaces.

when I did the IMG on a ex-friend’s Chevy, I used lacquer thinner on a cloth to get the oil off the V-bank ends.
 
At the engine factory, RTV/anaerobic sealant is applied by robot or pneumatic application tools to precise bead width. And in many cases, there’s a robot or job aid helping guide the parts to be sealed to perfect alignment and torque.

It’s repeatable as well on the assembly line.
Exactly, and the parts are as clean and oil/contaminant free as they'll ever be. Unlike the parts are going to be when the average DIYer is servicing them.
 
Here are the directions for Permatex Ultra black. You have to surround the bolt holes, and be careful you don’t over torque and squeeze it out. Wait 24 hours and longer if it’s colder than 70 degree F. If you are in New Hampshire in December, you’ll need to be in a heated garage. Relative humidity is important. You have to leave it longer if conditions are dryer than 50 % relative humidity. This was relayed to me by a Permatex customer service rep. Good luck. :)

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So for some reason I'm not having good success with a lower oil pan replacement on the Altima. There is no gasket for the 2.5 so I have to use RTV. The first time around I used black. It's leaking almost all the way around and I know I coated and cleaned everything good. Wondering if I didn't wait long enough before tightening it down. Does it have to harden up a little bit first? I'm not sure what the torque would be but I'm assuming not much?
Exactly which product did you use? With Permatex Ultra Black you do not wait to tighten it down.
 
I used the Right Stuff grey on my F150 differential cover when I changed the oil in 2015 I used M1 oil if it matters , so far it is sealed .
 
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