Was it setup to get unfiltered oil because the full flow spin-on was not existant (removed) and the oil was just getting partially filtered by the bypass filter ?
Ford tractor 8N oil canister converted to TP filter
- Thread starter sdowney717
- Start date
It was set up so the spin on filter was removed/eliminated, although in that application I'm not sure any other way how you would do it, and back in 1967 or 1968 when it was installed, there may not have been any other way to set that thing up, like today there are a couple different versions of the kit. it might have been their only kit then for all I know. The engine was getting filtered oil, and I remember being able to see oil splashing around in the intake valley through the oil filler tube when I first got it, so I know it got plenty of oil.
Would have to see the installation instructions, but would seem strange even back in 1967-1968 that a Frantz filter would be meant to be a full-flow filter - ie, take the place of the factory spin-on filter. Think it was always designed to be a bypass filter to be used along side the factory full-flow filter. So if the full-flow spin-on was totally removed, then the oil was probably only getting partially filtered by the Frantz bypass filter.
The smaller diameter inner tube was a tube section from a kids wagon handle, like 3/4 copper pipe will also work.
The spring (with its steel base which yours is missing), presses on that inner tube and the inner tube at the bottom presses down on the bottom end of the outer tube. The washer seals it up so oil cant bypass the paper. Everything still in good shape.
Hardest part of this is figuring out the larger tube to fit the TP roll, everything else is easy.
I do notice the 8N housing has a slightly rolled steel lip, and that catches on the TP when taking it out.
It is not really made for what I am doing, but it does work ok. The TP does shrink down after a while from the pressure.
I have thought adding a gauge in the cover would be nice, might help you know when the filter is clogged up. As the TP clogs up, the gauge psi should rise somewhat. When it is totally clogged it wil be equal to engine oil PSI. A new TP roll should relieve oil pressure as it can flow away and out the drain. But seeing the low volume of flow, a gauge might not be very useful. Right now I mostly use my hand, flowing means warm housing sooner. But still it will heat up just from radiant engine heat, so even that is not too useful, since the housing sits right above engine.
I do notice the 8N housing has a slightly rolled steel lip, and that catches on the TP when taking it out.
It is not really made for what I am doing, but it does work ok. The TP does shrink down after a while from the pressure.
I have thought adding a gauge in the cover would be nice, might help you know when the filter is clogged up. As the TP clogs up, the gauge psi should rise somewhat. When it is totally clogged it wil be equal to engine oil PSI. A new TP roll should relieve oil pressure as it can flow away and out the drain. But seeing the low volume of flow, a gauge might not be very useful. Right now I mostly use my hand, flowing means warm housing sooner. But still it will heat up just from radiant engine heat, so even that is not too useful, since the housing sits right above engine.
I converted a flat head Ford V8 canister filter to use a 4 1/2 inch diameter roll of Scott 1000. Cut the thread end of a small full flow filter off and drilled extra holes in it. Debured the holes. Put a spacer under it to put the top of the tp near the top of the filter housing. Had an old radiator cap I used to make a washer to bridge the space between the the tp core and the Ford center tube. The washer is plastic. Used a step drill to make the washer a snug fit. The lid spring pushes down against it. The filter inlet was near the top so I could use it. I put a pipe plug in the outlet and put a new outlet in. I used a self tappjng hollow bolt. I didnt want to use the Ford orifice. The old canisters didnt drain below the orifice put a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet. No center tube is needed with the 1000 sheet. Later I removed the spacer from under the perforated plate and have half a roll pf VIVA Signature cloth paper towels in it. Dont need a screen. The paper is strong enough.
With mine the oil comes in the top. The core is sealed so the oil goes down thru the paper thru the perforated plate and out the bottom. You could buy kits in the old days that did the same thing. Good luck finding one.
I have used toilet paper filters for over 60 years starting with a Frantz. I have Motor Guards Gulf Coast filters a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter that is converted to use Scott 1000 toilet paper.
I got my commercial licence with a truck that had a 5 gallon bucket for a passenger seat. The trooper saw the bucket. He said I know you can drive it. Been seeing you on the highway. Gave me a license.
They clean oil
My DC Case had a flange on the engine with a fine screen behind it. I put a Motor Guard toilet paper filter on it to clean the oil.
My old f250 with the 390 engine has a 50 year old Motor Guard oil cleaner on it. Of course the Motor Guard used toilet paper. The toilet paper sends a stream of clean oil to the oil pan untill all of the oil in the engine is clean. The full flow filter isnt supposed to clean oil. It is there to remove engine damaging abrasives from the full flow of oil to the engine parts.
What's the efficiency of that full-flow filter? It's going to be more than a fine screen door. Whole purpose of a full-flow filter in a setup like that is to take most of the debris loading, and the bypass filter is only there to slowly remove all the debris below around 10u and smaller that the full-flow doesn't get most of. If the full-flow filter doesn't clean the oil much, then it's not a good bypass filtering system setup.
Frantz and Motor Guard had adapters that eliminated the full flow filter. They screwed on in place of the full flow filter with a 1/8 pipe port. I ran a 84 Subaru over 250.000 miles with that adapter and a Frantz with no oil changes. Its a little risky unless your engine is pristine like mine. The Motor Guard on the Chevy engine on my Farmall H has the adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. Another pristine engine.
The adapter that removed the full-flow filter was most likely only allowing the bypass filter to connect to the engine. No way a filter like a Frantz was meant to be a full-flow filter - way too restrictive for that. So basically the full-flow filter was completely removed and installed only a bypass filter in it's place. The term "pristine engine" doesn't mean much unless you know what the oil cleanliness actually was, and how the wear rate of the engine was effected by just using only a bypass filter without a good full-flow filter also in the system. Post 39 mentions journal bearings looking like they had a lot of debris wear. If there was no full-flow filter, then lots of debris is not going to be caught and go into the oiling system. That's why modern bypass filter setups use a good full-flow filter in conjunction with a bypass filter.
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My 64 Rambler American L head 6 came with a factory installed spin on bypass filter bolted to the head upside down with steel oil lines. The oil was always dirty and black. To clean the oil I removed it and installed a Frantz. The oil turned clear like new. It was nice starting with a nearly new engine. Not so good starting with a neglected damaged engine. All the Frantz could do is send a stream of clean oil to the oil pan.
So this 64 Rambler came from the factory with no full-flow filter at all, and only had a spin-on "bypass" filter? What was the advertised efficiency of that OEM spin-on bypass filter?
The bottom line is that the best and proper way to setup a bypass filtering system is to use both a good efficiency full-flow filter in conjunction with a very high efficiency bypass filter. Just using the bypass filter alone may keep the oil clean enough, but it's not going to be as clean as the correct way to setup a bypass filtering system. Were any UOA particle counts taken? ... or all this is based on how things "looked".
The flat head 6 came only with a bypass filter. The over head valve models only came with a spin on full flow filter. Not much in a modern engine oil large enough to be removed by a full flow filter. A Car Quest filter for the Rambler is advertised as a 10 micron filter. Im a simple man. If the oil looks and feels clean im good. My Mazda diesel came factory equipped with both a spin on bypass filter and a spin on full flow filter I cleaned the oil by removing the bypass filter and installing a Frantz. Forgot to remove the Frantz before selling it. Told the guy I would put the Mazda filter back on. He knew about Frantzs. Told me to keep the Mazda filter. Its still on the shelf. Frantz wasnt the best design. All I have now is Motor Guards Gulf Coasts. a Australian Jackmaster Classic. and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter designed to use Scott 1000 tp. It has half a roll of VIVA Signature cloth paper towels in it now.
Not from what I've seen in a lot of C&Ps of filters in the Oil Filter forum here. Even in a new modern engine I wouldn't just use a bypass filter. It would be in conjunction with a high efficiency spin-on filter, like it should be.
Many years ago I worked for a guy with a Mustang dragster. He pulled the Mustang with a early 60s Chevy Suburban with a 292 big 6. He told me to put a Frantz oil cleaner on it with a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. Without the full flow filter he could monitor the condition of the engine by what was showing up on the top of the toilet paper. Without the full flow filter the 292 was the same as the 235. He didnt change the oil but changed the toilet paper and added a quart of Standard Delo 20 W. I suggested Delo 30W. He got racing oil free.
