Ford tractor 8N oil canister converted to TP filter

It must have been getting enough oil to keep it alive for all that time, the bearings looked like they had a lot of debris go through them, the wear otherwise appeared fairly normal for the mileage. That's the point I was trying to make. I have had 3 cars with Ford FE engines, this one being the lowest mileage and best maintained and it had the worst wear overall, with the tp oil filter. People can use what they want but theres better products out there these days.
Was it setup to get unfiltered oil because the full flow spin-on was not existant (removed) and the oil was just getting partially filtered by the bypass filter ?
 
Was it setup to get unfiltered oil because the full flow spin-on was not existant (removed) and the oil was just getting partially filtered by the bypass filter ?
It was set up so the spin on filter was removed/eliminated, although in that application I'm not sure any other way how you would do it, and back in 1967 or 1968 when it was installed, there may not have been any other way to set that thing up, like today there are a couple different versions of the kit. it might have been their only kit then for all I know. The engine was getting filtered oil, and I remember being able to see oil splashing around in the intake valley through the oil filler tube when I first got it, so I know it got plenty of oil.
 
It was set up so the spin on filter was removed/eliminated, although in that application I'm not sure any other way how you would do it, and back in 1967 or 1968 when it was installed, there may not have been any other way to set that thing up, like today there are a couple different versions of the kit. it might have been their only kit then for all I know. The engine was getting filtered oil, and I remember being able to see oil splashing around in the intake valley through the oil filler tube when I first got it, so I know it got plenty of oil.
Would have to see the installation instructions, but would seem strange even back in 1967-1968 that a Frantz filter would be meant to be a full-flow filter - ie, take the place of the factory spin-on filter. Think it was always designed to be a bypass filter to be used along side the factory full-flow filter. So if the full-flow spin-on was totally removed, then the oil was probably only getting partially filtered by the Frantz bypass filter.
 
Well sdowney717 I have read & read & looked at your pics & your write-up and pretty well understand everything up to about 95% of everything you did but still a bit unclear how you sealed the 2 inter tubes.
I have a By-Pass filter housing a lot like your 8N, but not sure what it came off of. Has no bottom drain and will have to drill and tap one. Other than that mine looks like yours. Oil comes in bottom up thru small tube and out small hole towards top where bolt that fastens top cap on screws into small tube. My spring on the bolt is just a coil spring, no hold down washer thing like yours. Also I have no rubber/ felt washer you described that the tubes fasten to at the bottom to seal.
I have found that for the outer tube a piece of chain link fence tube is about a good size to fit inside a roll of toilet paper snuggly.

As I understand you soldered a Tomato Past can to the outer tube leaving about 3/8" to dig into the TP to seal it at top end. Other end of outer tube you soldered a beveled/ground washer inside that tube that slips inside the TP and fits at bottom of the TP roll.
Then you have a smaller inner tube that is pressing down on the beveled soldered on washer thats inside the outer tube. The spring is what holds tension down on the smaller inner tube and everything.
What did you use for the smaller inner metal tube?
There is a spacer goes in first, then the SS grate/plate, then the rubber washer, then the TP with the bigger innet tube slipped inside, the the smaller inner tube, then fasten the lid on.

How close did I get things figured out? Please let me know what I'm missing and not understanding.
TIA James

The smaller diameter inner tube was a tube section from a kids wagon handle, like 3/4 copper pipe will also work.
The spring (with its steel base which yours is missing), presses on that inner tube and the inner tube at the bottom presses down on the bottom end of the outer tube. The washer seals it up so oil cant bypass the paper. Everything still in good shape.
 
Hardest part of this is figuring out the larger tube to fit the TP roll, everything else is easy.
I do notice the 8N housing has a slightly rolled steel lip, and that catches on the TP when taking it out.
It is not really made for what I am doing, but it does work ok. The TP does shrink down after a while from the pressure.
I have thought adding a gauge in the cover would be nice, might help you know when the filter is clogged up. As the TP clogs up, the gauge psi should rise somewhat. When it is totally clogged it wil be equal to engine oil PSI. A new TP roll should relieve oil pressure as it can flow away and out the drain. But seeing the low volume of flow, a gauge might not be very useful. Right now I mostly use my hand, flowing means warm housing sooner. But still it will heat up just from radiant engine heat, so even that is not too useful, since the housing sits right above engine.
 
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