I've recently seen some pretty good deals on eBay on the Frantz bypass filters. There are alot of older models on there and its tempting to grab one up at a deal, but here is my experience with the older models.
The older filters have what is called an "overcenter" clamp. It just clamps at one given force and that is basically it. They are prone to seeping/leaking at the can 0-ring as they don't seem to apply much pressure. The clamp can also pop loose which will blow the can off and there goes all your oil. Frantz had a handy little wire clip to keep the clamp from doing just that, but I rarely see them on the older ones for sale on eBay. Here is a pic of the "over center clamp on an older style filter. I really would recommend these not be used, unless you call and order the new screw type clamp.
One other thing you can see in the pic below is the center port is fairly large and the restrictor is cast into the return fitting. This setup gives full oil pressure inside the filter, which its capable of handling, but the new version has the seperate screw-in restrictor in the inlet port, letting the filter do its job under a much lower working pressure. Not really a big deal, but its smart enginering.
"Wefilterit" has fixed that problem with a new screw type clamp that can be clamped down tight insuring a good seal and no way for it to unload and come off. Here is a pic of the improved clamping band.
One other thing I came across is the oil return fitting for the oil pan. It does NOT seal well, in my opinion. The rubber gasket seals the pan to the washer, but the washer is loose on the fitting and that is where mine leaked, how be it ever so slowly, it still bugged me on my new spotless engine. A dab of silicone between the fitting and the metal washer was all that was needed to fix that problem. There is no "pressure" here so the sealing is a very easy fix.
There are also other ways to return the oil, some being into the oil filler cap, or through a hollow manifold mounting bolt in the intake manifold that will dump into the engine valley. I've also heard of tapping your drain plug and doing it that way, just make sure you don't run the risk of knocking the fitting off with a rock or speedbump!
You can also use the return fitting in a valve cover if you choose. For me, the biggest advantage to returning into the pan is that the filter gets to drain completely down, usually in about 10 minutes, and there is NO mess when you take off the housing for a TP change, providing you mount the unit with the canister up!
Lastly, be careful on using the Scott TP in the Frantz. I know many do and the "Wefilterit" web site also mentions it, but it is longer than what the Frantz is designed for. The Frantz housing is designed for a roll that measures 4 1/4" from tube end to tube end, but the Scott measures 4 1/2".
I cked with Deb at "Wefilterit" and she agrees, but some still use the Scott rolls. I know the roll is too big as far as the number of tp winds goes, and un-rolling some is fine, but the length of roll is 1/4" longer from end of the tube to the other end. This makes it very difficult to get the roll pushed far enough inside the canister and still be able to get the canister pushed all the way down on the filter housing. There is a large "c" type ring that helps keep the TP roll in the canister while servicing that gets pushed up by a raised ring on the filter housing.
I had tried the Scott 1000 single sheet rolls in mine and it leaked 2 times before I finally ordered up a box of TP from Deb. I suppose you could shove the roll on some kind of spinning stick and cut off 1/4" of one end and then all would be well, but that seems like a lot of work. (Deb says one of her commercial customers does just that!)
I ordered up 2 cases of TP from Wefilterit and it fits perfectly and is not much more than buying regular TP at the store.
After installing one on my truck, I feel the unit has undergone some great improvements and should be just fine. Remember, they've been around for over 40 years and even had one model that was FAA approved some years back, and had a "3 stacker" that used 3 rolls for big trucks!
Now I'm just waiting to get some miles on my new engine so I can do my very first UOA! LOL
Mark
[ May 16, 2004, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: 1977c10phxdriver ]
The older filters have what is called an "overcenter" clamp. It just clamps at one given force and that is basically it. They are prone to seeping/leaking at the can 0-ring as they don't seem to apply much pressure. The clamp can also pop loose which will blow the can off and there goes all your oil. Frantz had a handy little wire clip to keep the clamp from doing just that, but I rarely see them on the older ones for sale on eBay. Here is a pic of the "over center clamp on an older style filter. I really would recommend these not be used, unless you call and order the new screw type clamp.
One other thing you can see in the pic below is the center port is fairly large and the restrictor is cast into the return fitting. This setup gives full oil pressure inside the filter, which its capable of handling, but the new version has the seperate screw-in restrictor in the inlet port, letting the filter do its job under a much lower working pressure. Not really a big deal, but its smart enginering.
"Wefilterit" has fixed that problem with a new screw type clamp that can be clamped down tight insuring a good seal and no way for it to unload and come off. Here is a pic of the improved clamping band.
One other thing I came across is the oil return fitting for the oil pan. It does NOT seal well, in my opinion. The rubber gasket seals the pan to the washer, but the washer is loose on the fitting and that is where mine leaked, how be it ever so slowly, it still bugged me on my new spotless engine. A dab of silicone between the fitting and the metal washer was all that was needed to fix that problem. There is no "pressure" here so the sealing is a very easy fix.
There are also other ways to return the oil, some being into the oil filler cap, or through a hollow manifold mounting bolt in the intake manifold that will dump into the engine valley. I've also heard of tapping your drain plug and doing it that way, just make sure you don't run the risk of knocking the fitting off with a rock or speedbump!
You can also use the return fitting in a valve cover if you choose. For me, the biggest advantage to returning into the pan is that the filter gets to drain completely down, usually in about 10 minutes, and there is NO mess when you take off the housing for a TP change, providing you mount the unit with the canister up!
Lastly, be careful on using the Scott TP in the Frantz. I know many do and the "Wefilterit" web site also mentions it, but it is longer than what the Frantz is designed for. The Frantz housing is designed for a roll that measures 4 1/4" from tube end to tube end, but the Scott measures 4 1/2".
I cked with Deb at "Wefilterit" and she agrees, but some still use the Scott rolls. I know the roll is too big as far as the number of tp winds goes, and un-rolling some is fine, but the length of roll is 1/4" longer from end of the tube to the other end. This makes it very difficult to get the roll pushed far enough inside the canister and still be able to get the canister pushed all the way down on the filter housing. There is a large "c" type ring that helps keep the TP roll in the canister while servicing that gets pushed up by a raised ring on the filter housing.
I had tried the Scott 1000 single sheet rolls in mine and it leaked 2 times before I finally ordered up a box of TP from Deb. I suppose you could shove the roll on some kind of spinning stick and cut off 1/4" of one end and then all would be well, but that seems like a lot of work. (Deb says one of her commercial customers does just that!)
I ordered up 2 cases of TP from Wefilterit and it fits perfectly and is not much more than buying regular TP at the store.
After installing one on my truck, I feel the unit has undergone some great improvements and should be just fine. Remember, they've been around for over 40 years and even had one model that was FAA approved some years back, and had a "3 stacker" that used 3 rolls for big trucks!
Now I'm just waiting to get some miles on my new engine so I can do my very first UOA! LOL
Mark
[ May 16, 2004, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: 1977c10phxdriver ]
