Antiseize on oil filter canister threads?

Messages
47,951
Location
Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
I did my (own) first oil change (first real was at dealer, no charge) on my 2019 Tacoma. Slick, smooth as silk!! (ok always something)

QUESTION HERE: I changed over to the Lexus metal filter canister and Toyota filter. The plastic filter can was tight as the devil. I needed a breaker bar!!! But came off, WOW. The Tacoma mod trick is to change to the "aluminum" canister from Lexus and other models. Easy. I had the brilliant (?) idea to put Nickel antiseize on the threads - is this a good or bad idea? We are talking aluminum to aluminum interface. Threaded in smoothly and tightened to 11 ft lbs.

Super easy oil change, easier to drop the thin steel belly protector than the plastic belly pan on the WRX. . I used the aftermarket little metal filter drain gizmo. Worked awesome, not even hard to clean the silicone tubing. All in all given the gizmos and 2 o-rings, bone easy oil change.

Filled with Amsoil 0W-20 OEZ, good to go.
 
Messages
1,843
Location
California
No need for anti-sieze on canister oil filter threads. But you should make sure the gasket from the old filter is gone, and wipe some fresh oil on the gasket before installing a new filter. Hand tighten, or go approx. 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the base. Should be about the same.
 
Messages
24,451
Location
CA
No need for anti-seize. If the assemblies are properly torqued to 18 ft-lbs, they come off like butter. The only ones that give me trouble are the ones that have been overtightened.

I keep this on my cart at all times:
 
Messages
207
Location
Newington Connecticut
Did this mod to my daughters RAV 4.

Plastic has been off a few times and they seem to last a long time in my case but I liked the idea of the metal canister.

As a side note,my Volvo XC90 5Cyl has a plastic canister and it works just fine.

The plastic canister on the newer Tacomas (I have a 2013 Tacoma 4 lt.

With a spin on filter) seem to.be extremely difficult to remove inth first time but if you chsnge your own oil you won't over torque it and future removals will go much easier.

A suggestion it to purchase a wrench like the MOTIV TOOLS #MX2320 will make the process go easier. The filter housing has fingers so a normal filter wrench usually wont work.
Search Amazon.

CONVERT.
Tom B
 

Pablo

Thread starter
Messages
47,951
Location
Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
Yes I oiled both o-rings and did not need to worry about the old one on the old plastic canister cap.

As I said it all went very smoothly, and the little antisieze shouldn't hurt, will be there for life - well when I wipe the cap off next OC

Here is the canister housing cap tool I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076D2QXF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the cap drain tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F42KVP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the filter cap I bought (o-rings come with filter): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07984MX2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Messages
7,585
Location
Los Gatos, CA
No need for antiseize. I oil the o-ring seal and threads.
As long as it is installed correctly, it will come off easily with the proper tools.
Use a torque wrench for extra points.
 
Messages
5,869
Location
the canyons
The plastic filter can was tight as the devil. I needed a breaker bar!!! But came off, WOW.

That's only because the 'lube tech' at the dealer was an incompetent hack. I hope they didn't also strip or crossthread any skidplate bolts.

A properly installed canister cap will come off easily with the appropriate tool, when the cap has the O-ring installed correctly, lubed with oil, and tightened correctly.
 
Messages
5,794
Location
NJ
my advice: tighten very lightly. they are sealed as soon as the o-ring is secure between the canister and the mount anyway so all you need is that the canister wont't shake/vibrate loose.

The canister on my camry turns on medium easy and then suddenly stops turning. I can't feel and change as I tighten it. And it's difficult to remove. I use a 1/2 inch ratchet from HF and it works well.
 
Messages
5,869
Location
the canyons
Hhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahaha HOMERUN.

I forgot to mention: One of bolts for the skid plate was NOT factory!!

Sorry to hear it. I wish I could say I'm surprised. It's an all too common story. Most likely stripped the threads, and jammed in an oversized bolt with the help of their trusty impact wrench...

We got a new 4Runner late last year. I just recently did it's first oil change myself. It will never see the dealer again if I can help it. No stripped threads, no problem getting the canister cap off or on. No issues. Period.

Like many of the members here, I'm a former mechanic. Worked at a Toyota dealer and various other shops. I can't stand incompetence.
 

Pablo

Thread starter
Messages
47,951
Location
Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
Sorry to hear it. I wish I could say I'm surprised. It's an all too common story. Most likely stripped the threads, and jammed in an oversized bolt with the help of their trusty impact wrench...

We got a new 4Runner late last year. I just recently did it's first oil change myself. It will never see the dealer again if I can help it. No stripped threads, no problem getting the canister cap off or on. No issues. Period.

Like many of the members here, I'm a former mechanic. Worked at a Toyota dealer and various other shops. I can't stand incompetence.

I checked. They didn't foul the threads. Just a different style bolt. I even used that bolt in a different location. Factory are black with decent size captive washer, this was zinc with smaller (almost too small captive washer) - I HIGHLY doubt it came from the factory that way.
 
Messages
416
Location
CA
Have you considered converting to a spin on? I think Baxter has a few options for the Toyota. I do know if I ever get a vehicle with one I'll convert it. I messed with those cartridge filters on Isuzu generators for almost 11 years. Too much hassle IMO.

As far as antiseize I see no problem using it and would encourage you to continue. It woks really well on dissimilar materials. I use it on my oil plugs to aluminum pan and most threads that are exposed to high temps.
 
Messages
2,114
Location
South Central PA (Fulton Co)
Gonna go out on a limb and say the lube tech did not over-tighten the canister. Our Camry has the same style and is a total bear everytime. Even tightened with a torque wrench it's super tight to get off. I also lube the o-ring every time. I use the Motivx 2320 tool that has the ability to use a 27MM 1/2" socket for removal. It's a little spendy, but worth every penny.

On the flipside the canister for my GTI and cap on the Mercedes is super easy to remove as long as it's torqued correctly. Never had an issue with removing them after a dealer change.
 
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