canister oil filter question

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Apr 7, 2004
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I just did my first oil change and the oil filter canister is in a tough spot. I normally torque my oil canisters to factory spec but cannot get the torque wrench in there to use. I did it by hand and took it for a spin of about 5 miles keeping an eye on oil pressure which was normal. My question is if I didnt tighten enough would it leak slowly at first or can the canister fall off quickly. Canister oil filters have a different kind of seal than regular spin on filter and wondering if the O-ring would prevent leaks until filter falls off.
 
By canister oil filter I am assuming that you mean a Hengst type.....usually have plastic or composite cap with O ring at edge.

The ones that I have seen leak were only finger tight. As long as you tightented it to reasonable level, then you are probably good to go. Also if it is any consellation, I have never tightened one with a torque wrench.
 
It should. If it's like my Benz, the o ring is more of a sliding seal, torque does not impact it's sealing ability. The correct torque is stated to prevent loosening, or breaking the housing, which is plastic these days.
 
If it gives you any comfort - never torqued the ones in our Cruze (100K+ miles) or two Cobalts (40K+ miles each worth of changes). Only time I have ever had weeping is if I have removed the filter and not replaced the ring. Even then it was not significant.
 
By canister oil filter I am assuming that you mean a Hengst type.....usually have plastic or composite cap with O ring at edge.

The ones that I have seen leak were only finger tight. As long as you tightented it to reasonable level, then you are probably good to go. Also if it is any consellation, I have never tightened one with a torque wrench.
Yes that type which takes a cartridge oil filter. The car is a '21 Cayman S. I could barely get my ratchet on it to tighten. I just purchased a 22mm ratcheting combination wrench that I will use to slip on the oil filter wrench so clearance shouldnt be an issue next time around
 
All you have to do is tighten the housing enough to deform to o-ring to design specs. Running it up hand tight should be more than enough to affect a seal.
 
"Canister" is an ambiguous confusing term best avoided, because it means different things to different people. I assume you're referring to a cartridge filter.

Once the flange on the cap is fully (or even almost) seated against the housing, increasing torque has zero effect on sealing.
 
I put 314k onto my VW, so that was 25 or more changes with a plastic housing. Departed Camry, that was 236k and so probably 25 changes on that plastic housing. Tundra, that was maybe 10 more, again plastic housing. No torque wrench ever. I just stopped once I felt it seat. The o-ring has so much drag that it would never back out. When I would change the oil it would have the same resistance coming out. I had no worries about it.

I take that back: one time I planned poorly and didn't have an OEM filter, so I used a Supertech, and used the o-ring that came with it. When I changed the oil later, that o-ring had gone square. I don't think the housing was going to back out any time soon but I never bought another ST filter for that car after that. Quality o-rings matter I guess.
 
"Canister" is an ambiguous confusing term best avoided, because it means different things to different people. I assume you're referring to a cartridge filter.

Once the flange on the cap is fully (or even almost) seated against the housing, increasing torque has zero effect on sealing.
I think it would be better to be even more specific than that. I like the term "Hengst type" though cartridge type should work. Possibly use "spin on" filter for the, well, spin on type.
 
On the more popular Mercedes and BMW boards a common recommendation is to put a witness mark on the cap and housing for repeatability without a torque wrench.
 
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