https://photos.app.goo.gl/pbiRtCvF5JCGGLiL7
Since they discontinued the bypass filters for the old housings, I decided fooey, I will make my own TP roll filter design. I bought a 1940's 8N oil canister, and figured out how to make this function. Oil comes up the center tube, and goes out the drain at the bottom, which this earlier canister did not have, had to drill and tap for a fitting. Some later models did have the drain.
I set this up to use a great value Walmart TP roll.
The double tube design, the inner tube holds down the outer sealing tube by way of the spring in the cover.
The inner SS screen is a cut off piece from a vegetable steamer, cost me 49 cents at thrift store. It need a bottom support for the TP filter so it wont collapse.
Ford tractor 8N oil canister converted to TP filter
- Thread starter sdowney717
- Start date
I made the outer tube from an old brass bathtub drain tube and cut the threaded fitting off the overflow drain. Screwed it into the brass tube. Then used a thick steel washer beveled and ground to fit into the other end and soldered it together.
The other tube end, I used a Tomato past can. Soldered on and left about 3/8" to dig into the TP to help seal the top end of the roll.
Designing a functional central tube arrangement was the hardest part of this job.
Simple tin snips was able to cut the strainer to the right diameter.
What I found amazing, the old rubber washer was like new in the canister. The screen goes in first, then the rubber washer and the outer tube's bottom end seals the incoming oil flow. Oil flows in at the bottom center, moves up the tube and flows out over the top of the TP roll, then oil must flow thru the TP roll to exit thru the strainer bottom and is collected at the canister drain, from where I plan to put it into the valve cover of the truck.
I took just a few unwraps of the TP roll to be enabled to force it into the canister.
Originally Posted by walterjay
I don't understand...why a toilet paper filter?
Nifty!
Don't forget to restrict flow so the TP can do the job, and keep oil pressure up.
And... BTW, it almost looks like coreless TP would have been a perfect fit over that original center tube.
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the rod tube post of the filter canister has a tiny hole through which oil will pass. I have 4 similar canisters, and they all use the same tiny hole design.
scroll down to see a roll filter meant for a diesel.
now they want $60 for a refill. My idea is to use this canister on my Ram diesel truck in bypass mode, and a lot cheaper cost, and be just as good.
I first bought the canister, then found out they no longer make the depth bypass filters, which is sad.
https://insanediesel.com/amsoil-bypass-oil-filter-inspected-vs-insane-diesel-review/
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You can get creative with bypass filters trying to get the magical nirvana of contaminate control.
TP is cheap and works and there are several different new and old manufacturers. The new Frantz Oil Refiner looks really nice.
Oil Refiner
Cool idea the OP had for a DIY.
Fact is, unless extending OCI, the benefit is nil. Contamination control, either filter or replace the oil. Most will replace before contamination becomes an issue.
If you can live with 5 micron, look into a spin on head and Luberfiner LFP777XL, Donaldson P550777, or AC Delco P940F
Filter Head
P940F
Originally Posted by beanoil
You can get creative with bypass filters trying to get the magical nirvana of contaminate control.
TP is cheap and works and there are several different new and old manufacturers. The new Frantz Oil Refiner looks really nice.
Oil Refiner
Cool idea the OP had for a DIY.
Fact is, unless extending OCI, the benefit is nil. Contamination control, either filter or replace the oil. Most will replace before contamination becomes an issue.
If you can live with 5 micron, look into a spin on head and Luberfiner LFP777XL, Donaldson P550777, or AC Delco P940F
Filter Head
P940F
Album of finished project.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pbiRtCvF5JCGGLiL7
I wanted to add a bypass canister filter. I chose a Ford 8N tractor for the part. Seller even sent me the metal lines, which with some bending actually fit. I prefer steel lines instead of rubber. Of course its harder to fit, but its more durable and saved me money. This Ford oil canister filter is from the early 1940's, amazing it still is in fine shape.
These canisters take a C3P cartridge filter, but since they redesigned and no longer make them as good bypass filters of 2 to 5 micron anymore, I setup this filter to use a roll of Toilet paper. If it is a tight fit then it filters well. TP filters send the oil up the center and oil flows out on the top, then percolates down and drains out the canister bottom.
I already am running the BD7317 venturi combo filter, and this one just will help clean the oil some more.
I shaped some aluminum plate to hold the filter and backed it up with a support so it wont shake itself to death and crack off due to vibration.
Oil drains back to engine through the secondary turbo oil drain block hole. Seemed silly to spend money, (rubber hoses and special fittings) and have it pump up to the oil cap, which would mean the cartridge would never drain completely when I go to change it.
Nice setup, here's the setup my sister has on her Cummins:) Puradyn MTS-24 and MotorGuard M100.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/05/full-69152-32728-img_6683.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/05/full-69152-32729-img_6684.jpg)
Its tough to find room under the 2005 Ram hood. Her truck had some available space.
I have a Motor Guard on my 94 Buick Roadmaster Wagon. I ran Mobil one for at least 25,000 miles, but I think thats hard on the additive package, I did not change the filters often. The Motorguard continued to warm up, but when it got slow to warm up, I changed it. I must have over the years changed the roll 4 times in at least 10 years, and only changed the oil twice in that time. Engine still runs good, has 245,000 miles. The paint on the car is going. I had to rebuild the 4L60E, and resela the intake manifold as it was pumping oil out the back. Those have been the only mechanical failures on the car.
One thing I like about the Ford 8N, I used metal lines, better than rubber ones. Filter is well supported on the engine, so they should last. I may improve my center tube with some rubber orings. I may also make another tube to use the Scott 1000 rolls which use the 1.6 inch tube. These Walmart Great Value rolls are a lot bigger tube.
Another nice thing, I can take off the top of the canister and see the top of the paper roll. I noticed it has already relaxed downwards in the can.
The 8N canister has a slight roll in on the top edge where it meets the lid. But I was still able to stuff in a TP roll. It is a thick steel construction, and the lid is twice as thick as the canister. Very solidly built.
Originally Posted by Lubener
Interesting. I am a little leary of that fiber washer under the bolt holding up to the higher pressures.
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I am going to make a second center tube to fit a Scott 1000 size roll. I noticed they feel much denser. BUT every TP roll in the past for me in a Motor Guard filter housing has eventually plugged with no flow so you know they clog up, which meas it is filtering out small particles anyway. There was another brand Charmin that felt very similar.
My thinking, seeing how the TP has reacted, it sort of collapses down on itself closing tighter as hot oil passes thru it, even the looser wound rolls do that. I was also able to pack the roll in tight which is good.
In my M100 I'm running mostly Kirkland brand rolls and Scott 1000's, I find the Scott 1000 will last a little longer before pugging compared to the Kirkland brand.
Today I renewed the bypass filter in the Ram 3500
I had to remove it to work on the turbo and exhaust manifold.
It was very black oil slimy feeling oil on the paper surfaces and basically I had to pull it and unroll it from the center.
The new filter paper is packed tighter this time, still had to unroll a bunch to force into the housing.
Oil enters the bottom center, flows up and out over the top, then filters down through the TP and drains out the bottom.
The smaller tube keeps the spring pressure down on the big center tube, which has a washer on the bottom. The TP roll is a tight fit. The bottom of the big tube has a 3/8 tall spacer to exactly fit the inner paper roll. I can barely blow thru it from inlet to outlet
I had to remove it to work on the turbo and exhaust manifold.
It was very black oil slimy feeling oil on the paper surfaces and basically I had to pull it and unroll it from the center.
The new filter paper is packed tighter this time, still had to unroll a bunch to force into the housing.
Oil enters the bottom center, flows up and out over the top, then filters down through the TP and drains out the bottom.
The smaller tube keeps the spring pressure down on the big center tube, which has a washer on the bottom. The TP roll is a tight fit. The bottom of the big tube has a 3/8 tall spacer to exactly fit the inner paper roll. I can barely blow thru it from inlet to outlet
Very nice, very similar to my Frantz filter.
Nobody makes the filter? There are still zillions of those tractors around. My case takes a spin on. So far I have been able to order one. Maybe I should stock up on them?
I would seriously avoid the tp oil filter. Last summer I bought a 64 galaxie that had a frantz tp oil filter installed since the 70s. When I tore the engine down for rebuild, which was all original and never touched it wasn't super dirty but the bearings were very worn out for the mileage and looked like they had a lot of debris go through them. The crankshaft even had a groove worn on the mains. I had oil change records for most of its life and it got 2000 to 2500 mile oil changes. Really doubt the TP filter did it any favors. I've torn apart much nastier and higher mileage fe engines that had better bearing using a spin in filter. I took that thing off immediately.
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