Ford Fusion

supton said:
3FAHP07Z17R148483


My thoughts. My concern is, I'm buying for my daughter, who's a teen driver. I have high confidence in her becoming a good driver, but... teen drivers are teen drivers. I'm after "safe" cannon fodder for her. If I can get several years out of it, all the better.

What would be nice to find, but I don't think it's worth paying extra for, is adjustable pedals. I literally could not climb into my wife's car after my daughter adjusted everything so she could drive...
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This platform of car seems to be friendly to the shorter driver
When I bought my sister the Milan, she said it was much easier to get comfortable in than her old Taurus
I'm 6'2, she's about 5'2, shorter people have an interesting battle of not crowding the steering wheel, but still being able to reach the pedals
 
No red flags on the Fusion. Two things I would check into- corrossion, vehicle has lived its life in the NE, and the vehicle is priced to sell- why, in this market?



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michaelluscher said:
It was recently serviced at Ford dealers in Cranston, RI and East Greenwich, RI
Check front and rear subframes for rust, same with rockers
Your prospect is a Gen 1, with the 2.3 Duratec, and the Mazda derived FNR5 5AT
If it's not too rusty and worn, it'll make a decent first car
MY07 has side airbags standard, good for safety 🦺
It will need this that and the other thing, but parts are fairly cheap and they seem easy enough to work on
If it hasn't had a throttle body and a purge valve, set aside a $100 bill for those, easy to swap

I've got two Gen 1.5, a 2010 Milan and a 2010 Fusion
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Thanks, I haven't pulled Carfax yet, dithering if I want to get a 3 pack and get ready for my next vehicle purchase (I need 5 vehicles like an extra hole in the head, but my daily driver is old enough now to have a college degree).
 
GON said:
No red flags on the Fusion. Two things I would check into- corrossion, vehicle has lived its life in the NE, and the vehicle is priced to sell- why, in this market?
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Thanks for looking!

I don't know why on price. It's a wholesale lot. Maybe that is their business model? They buy from auction, or get dumped onto from dealerships, but they don't want to do more than just flip? Not bothering with a garage, not bothering with inspections or temp plates... Maybe they think they can cater to a certain crowd? like those who want to avoid a dealer lot and are ok with less desirable vehicles? *cough*

In a different thread macrose indicated that dealers know what auctions to take what vehicles to. Maybe this is just a place for certain vehicles. Beats me!
 
dnewton3 said:
The 2.3L was backed by a 4 spd auto, not a 5 spd. In 2010 it went to the 6spd (and 2010 and 2011 they had a few issues with the "new" 6spd, which were sorted out be 2012).

Generally the 2.3L with 4A/T is gonna be a tad slow by today's standards, but overall a fairly reliable package. If the car is solid and decent shape, would be a good DD.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 6 and thought that would be the same platform? Not sure. Mine has 2.3L and 5AT in any case.
Slow, because that 5AT is smooth but sluggish, and in my opinion tuned for more fuel economy than reactivity. Again, that's my only AT so maybe I don't have a good comparison point.

The engine is smooth and is eager enough to rev, but that 5AT kills all the fun. My Mazda has a little over 200K and I only did basic maintenance with a few preventive things like water pump and thermostat before they were due, and recently injectors. It's comfortable and makes a good cheap DD, if corrosion is in check.
 
Be prepared to change the valve cover gasket if it hasn't been done already. You'll know if it's leaking when you go to change the spark plugs because that's where they tend to leak after 90 or 100K miles (the center of the gasket leaks into the spark plug holes). They are a very good car for what they (used to) cost used.
 
Finally open, so I called (why is this so nerve wracking?). Not inspected so I can only drive in the dealer's lot? not on the road?
 
Blinker said:
Red flag
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Yep. I suspect, not sure, they probably flip to whoever can tow off their lot, do whatever work is necessary, then slap their own sticker on. BHPH feeder? Not sure. My guess is, it might *might* need struts, tires, the usual. But do I kick the tires, take the gamble, pay the cash and go home to register, so as to bring home in a few days?

Now is it worth $5k more (or much more!!!!) for me to hit a better lot, one where it comes with a temp plate and valid sticker?
 
Some professional ahead of you, with more knowledge than you, diverted this car to an as-is lot instead of putting a small amount of work into getting it inspectable.

Bring your code reader, see if the I/Ms are all set. They won't be, and there'll be a dubious story.
 
eljefino said:
Some professional ahead of you, with more knowledge than you, diverted this car to an as-is lot instead of putting a small amount of work into getting it inspectable.

Bring your code reader, see if the I/Ms are all set. They won't be, and there'll be a dubious story.
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*smack my head* why didn't I plug in my android and get it ready for reading codes already? using torq that is. what was I thinking? thank you for the reminder of the obvious!
 
A $10 spacer would bring the catalyst monitor into submission
Transmission or PCM issues, could be a different manner
Check the interior door handles, they like to break
Only like $10 each tho

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Look at the front seat rail, photo 11, seems like the rust is a little more than I would expect so investigate a little more for flood damage. Photo 8 shows a panel hanging down, that might be a clue of a wiring issue.
Even if it's only on his lot go drive around for about 20 minutes just to be sure no overheating issues.
Get some kind of agreement on the transmission shifting normally being your limited in test driving.
I don't mind the price if everything is next to perfect as can be, but trust your gut if it's telling you no, there's sure to be other similar deals.
 
dnewton3 said:
The 2.3L was backed by a 4 spd auto, not a 5 spd. In 2010 it went to the 6spd (and 2010 and 2011 they had a few issues with the "new" 6spd, which were sorted out be 2012).

Generally the 2.3L with 4A/T is gonna be a tad slow by today's standards, but overall a fairly reliable package. If the car is solid and decent shape, would be a good DD.
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The 6 speed (6F35) continued to have some issues, up through maybe 2015 or so? Mostly a harsh/slow 2-3 shift. My 2013 does it.

The 2.5 is a good engine, though. The 1.6 turbo on the 2nd gen had some issues with blocks.

I got my 2013 for cheap because the seller was honest enough to disclose issues with the electric power steering. Really, it steered fine but made some clunks when you turned it lock-to-lock and occasionally the steering angle sensor would quit, making the turn signals and stability control fail to work. So after driving it for a year, I finally put in a junkyard rack and that fixed the steering.

I like the gen 2 chassis, it looks better and is probably stiffer and roomier and all that. But the second gens are more expensive.

I think this 2007 is a good configuration because it was before the troublesome electric power steering and the 6F35 transmission (2010 for both of those, I think). Not that everyone with those years will have issues.
 
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