For you Redline users, do you like it?

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quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
RL is a wonderful engine oil. Absolutely superb in a turbo. But soooooooooooo expensive. Bumping $100 a case.

Perhaps in my S60R . . . perhaps. But never in the wife's Chrysler (M1 10w-30 is more than enough).


Depending on what your using or considering using it may not be that more expensive. Look at the price of Amsoil 2000 0w30. I see post where Amsoil seems to be the cheap alternative or Mobile 1/EP. I'm not saying cheap/alternative like they are second best, they may be better. I don't know. After spending around 5 dollars or more per quart, what's a couple more bucks if you truely think it's worth the investment.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
RL is a wonderful engine oil. Absolutely superb in a turbo. But soooooooooooo expensive. Bumping $100 a case.

Perhaps in my S60R . . . perhaps. But never in the wife's Chrysler (M1 10w-30 is more than enough).


You know, lots of ChryCo engines are reputed to not have good longevity (not talking about the older V-8s.). That makes me wonder.. Is RedLine worth it in those engines? IOW, does RL improve longevity in such engines?
 
At $8 or $9 a quart, in a six quart sump, cost "can" become a factor. Including a filter, an RL oil change suddenly costs near $60.

The issue is to use a less expensive synthetic (M1) with more frequent changes, or keep the RL in there for all it's worth. I appreciate the value of an oil change for its other benefits. I know if I ran RL, I wouldn't leave it in for more than 5k - and I know that's wasteful.

But I'm seriously toying with it, especially if mods push the R's HP past the 350 mark.

In our Chrysler 3.2, there's no reason the engine can't go at least 200k with prudent maintenance. The 2.7 was the problem variant of that family. I expect it can run indefinitely on the M1.
 
It just seems like Redline is such a good oil but man, $8/qt and according to James Fitch's book, POE's don't like a moisture enviorment. I don't know what I'm talking about,,,,AR
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
In our Chrysler 3.2, there's no reason the engine can't go at least 200k with prudent maintenance. The 2.7 was the problem variant of that family. I expect it can run indefinitely on the M1.

I didn't mean being sludge-prone, I just meant longevity. Specifically, though, the 2-liters see quite a number of cases of piston slap. If you can get the dealer to tear it down, there is/are cylinders worn out of round and out of spec. I saw 1 dealer report of seized oil rings. There are many explanations offered, but to me it seems like a possible lubrication problem/failure. That could easily make RedLine worth the money if the engines running RL didn't start to slap, but those running M1 with short OCIs did.
 
I've only had great experience with Redline.

Engines have run quiet and smoother, oil temps lower, great UOA's.

Have used in BMW 325es, Acura Integra, Subaru Outback, Passat GLX at 8K intervals.

I also use Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance....but if I think I'm going to drive the car hard, then I'd use Redline.

Redline Gear Lubes have been outstanding.

Redline is a great company and I like nearly every product they offer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tuong:
what does "GC" stand for???

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quote:

Originally posted by boxcartommie22:
i agree, redline is the very best!!!

Since boxcartommie22 is in Littleton, CO and I'm in Vail, CO...we are at opposite ends of the I-70 corridor from Denver.

If boxcartommie22 drives I-70 West out of Denver he might be able to vouch for the fact that our engines really get a workout during the climbs up Floyd Hill and up to Eisenhower Tunnel, and Vail Pass.

That's when I'm glad I've got Redline in an engine, or Mobil 1 at the very least.

But Redline is signigicantly better for this type of driving, and the oil temp gauge, engine sounds, and engine life agree.

Since I have a fairly large family and quite a few drivers, I'm really glad that there are good synthetic oils and longer OCI's.

Years ago when the conventional oils weren't as good as they are now, I'd always see cars broken down on uphill sections of this highway. I can imagine how many sludgebuckets were created.
 
I would definately give RL a go, BUT, the price is so high here that is is not really sensible except in race situations.

I do use it in driveline where due to the small volume the price is more manageable.

Last I looked it was about $36AUD per qrt.
 
It comes to $27 per quart???
You guys are being raped.
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It costs you 4 times more than in the US!!!
 
quote:

Originally posted by theguru:
I would definately give RL a go, BUT, the price is so high here that is is not really sensible except in race situations.

I do use it in driveline where due to the small volume the price is more manageable.

Last I looked it was about $36AUD per qrt.


As much as I like Redline, at the prices in your market I'd be looking at Mobil 1, , Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0W-40 and 10W-60, or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

How much are they?
 
http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html

>>Polyol esters can extend the high temperature operating range of a lubricant by as much as 50 - 100?C due to their superior stability and low volatility. They are also renowned for their film strength and increased lubricity which is useful in reducing energy consumption in many applications. The only downside of polyol esters compared to diesters is their higher price; they are generally 20 - 70% higher on a wholesale basis.

The major application for polyol esters is jet engine lubricants where they have been used exclusively for more than 30 years. In this application, the oil is expected to flow at -54?C, pump readily at -40?C, and withstand sump temperature approaching 200?C with drain intervals measured in years. Only polyol esters have been found to satisfy this demanding application and incorporating even small amounts of diesters or PAOs will cause the lubricant to fail vital specifications.

Polyol esters are also the ester of choice for blending with PAOs in passenger car motor oils. This change from lower cost diesters to polyols was driven primarily by the need for reduced fuel consumption and lower volatility in modern specifications. They are used in 2-cycle oils as well for the same reasons plus biodegradability.
<<
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thatwouldbegreat:
As much as I like Redline, at the prices in your market I'd be looking at Mobil 1, , Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0W-40 and 10W-60, or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

How much are they?


Mobil 1 5W-50 = A $65/5 litres
" 10W-30 = A $80/5 litres
" 0W-40 = A $80/5 litres
Delvac 1 5W-40 = A $70/5 litres
Castrol Formula R 0W-40 = A $65/5 litres
Castrol Formula R 10W-60 = A $60/5 litres
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 = $55/5 litres

Those are the prices at my local auto parts store.
 
I've been running Motul 300v which was $39.95 per 2 litres and has recently gone to $46.95. Managed to get 4 bottles recently for 25% off but it was all they had left. Still cheaper than RL.

Both oils are not that easy to get here, however Repco (a national chain) have started to stock Motul. Unfortunately not in 5w-30, which is what I want.

GC is not available here.
 
I use RL in the trans/diff in my Outback and will run MT90 I have already purchased in my Mazda trans after it's rebuild (2nd gear syncro gone). I used RL 5W30 in the Outback 4cyl and the quietest and best economy of any oil. Can't afford the engine oil now but will stick with the gear oils or get some Specialty Formulations stuff fom Kule..s
 
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