Lately I've been heavily researching redline and becoming quite fond of it. Minus all the marketing stuff, I'm not letting that convince me of anything. I'm thinking of trying me some and just curious to see for those of you who use it, do you like it?? Please, no bashing. Thanks,,,,,AR
For you Redline users, do you like it?
- Thread starter oilpan49
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As you've probably seen, RL has a "love it or hate it" reputation on here. It's reputation is second to none among the racing crowd. I know on the Honda forums, those that use Redline always love the way their cars run on this oil. Very low friction with their oils. I'd go for it. I'm considering their 5w-20 in the future as a plan B to M1 EP.
I like it, but it is too expensive to run all the time on my short intervals for my car. I wish I could run it more than I do. It does have very low friction, when I ran 10w-40 on my car it felt as free spinning as 10w-30 viscosities of other oils and fuel economy was just as good too.
So why not just run it longer? I think they claim it is good for 1 year or 10-18,000 miles in a properly running engine.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
What makes Red Line so expensive? What's in it that makes it twice as expensive as Mobil-1?
I'm considering trying it, but I won't if I feel I'm being ripped-off. The only time I see it cheap is when an auto-part store is discontinuing it.
I'm considering trying it, but I won't if I feel I'm being ripped-off. The only time I see it cheap is when an auto-part store is discontinuing it.
I can give some great testimonials on it's use in motorcycle racing, but for my personal everyday drivers I choose not to afford it.
Redline uses a group V base oil. All other synth oils, including Mobil 1, are group IV or III.
I use Redline in my motorcycle. I know that terry has recommended Redline to quite a few people for many air cooled motorcycle applications. I alos know that Redline seems to hold up to fuel dilution better than just about any other oil out there. I have never used it in a car engine.
My previous oils (M1 5W-30, Saab LL 0W-30)seemed to have "viscosity issues" when pushed (sustained 3,300-3,500 RPM) Not so with RL 10W30
-Thomas
'03echo
-Thomas
'03echo
I've had a hankerin' to try a Mobil 1/RedLine blend since I've read a few UOAs that looked pretty good. Supposedly someone at RedLine said it shouldn't cause any problems too. I'm thinking a 80% Mobil 1 10w30/20% RedLine 10w30 might improve the lubricity of Mobil 1. Any comments?
If you guys have Advance Auto Parts in your area, ask them if they'd like to make a deal if they have any remaining Redline in stock. You may luck out!
I wanted an oil that could run 10m OFL with no problems in our JEEP Cherokee XJ L6-242. REDLINE was recommended (10W-30), and a low-restriction, extended-service oil filter (BALDWIN B2-HPG). FP60 in fuel tank.
The request was made to run without the use of LC20. LUBE CONTROL simply completes the picture.
Haven't run a UOA since changing (JEEP, now totalled), but engine performance, fuel mileage, throttle response, idle quality, etc, etc, etc lead me to believe that REDLINE was a good choice.
First round was after UOA's (two, see under member number), and oil was darkened somewhat. Later changes oil didn't darken nearly so much, most barely at all. Ran it for about 50m.
Recently drove some other JEEPS (identical) and none, but none, had the throttle response "driveability" despite having 60m odo miles versus 95m.
Am now running RL 5W-40 in the Ram (after ARX, Molasoak, etc), and with LC20 truck idle is nicely smooth. Will UOA after intake plenum gasket replaced and see if this formulation or the 10W-30 is "better".
Recommend REDLINE. Get the best filter (BALDWIN, DONALDSON or FLEETGUARD in extended-service/heavy-duty, low-restriction, synthetic media) and go for the 10,000-mile OFL. My requirement is engine performance as good as new, NOT deteriorated, for at least 150,000 miles. Annual ARX, FP60, LC20 and RL/Baldwin simply too good to beat, IMO.
Good luck.
The request was made to run without the use of LC20. LUBE CONTROL simply completes the picture.
Haven't run a UOA since changing (JEEP, now totalled), but engine performance, fuel mileage, throttle response, idle quality, etc, etc, etc lead me to believe that REDLINE was a good choice.
First round was after UOA's (two, see under member number), and oil was darkened somewhat. Later changes oil didn't darken nearly so much, most barely at all. Ran it for about 50m.
Recently drove some other JEEPS (identical) and none, but none, had the throttle response "driveability" despite having 60m odo miles versus 95m.
Am now running RL 5W-40 in the Ram (after ARX, Molasoak, etc), and with LC20 truck idle is nicely smooth. Will UOA after intake plenum gasket replaced and see if this formulation or the 10W-30 is "better".
Recommend REDLINE. Get the best filter (BALDWIN, DONALDSON or FLEETGUARD in extended-service/heavy-duty, low-restriction, synthetic media) and go for the 10,000-mile OFL. My requirement is engine performance as good as new, NOT deteriorated, for at least 150,000 miles. Annual ARX, FP60, LC20 and RL/Baldwin simply too good to beat, IMO.
Good luck.
I wish I could run Redline longer, but my warranty calls for 3,000 mile oil changes, 5,000 is the maximum under "optimum conditions", but for the most part they want 3,000 miles. I switch to Redline when I do road course events, my UOA's come out similar to a normal daily driving intervals in terms of wear, so Redline really does protect in harsh driving conditions. Not so sure if you really see the benefit of it in normal daily driving, it likely doesn't get tested to it's max under such conditions, but it shines in racing conditions. I have also done the Mobil1/Redline brew with good success in daily driving conditions, 4 L Mobil1 to 1 L Redline to help boost the AW's, Redline provides the Moly and extra cleaning and anti-foam properties, while Mobil1 provides Boron, I think it's a good mix.
I use RedLine in one of our cars and I really like it. For me, I think it ought to be drained after a somewhat shorter interval at least the first time, then start extending. My first UOA of it in my SAAB (don't have that any more) was at 8 or 10k miles, and it needed to be replaced (TBN of 1.8, not Blackstone's method). To its credit, the interval covered the time I was tuning the wastegate and computer and there was fuel dilution. Still wasn't chewing the motor up, but it needed to be drained (slightly elevated lead according to the lab; may not have been from abrasive wear given what is discussed about RL here).
We don't have any of the noises that so many Neon owners report as piston slap. It's difficult for me because I have no objective way to say it's better for us. I guess time will tell. Current budgetary constraints are really the only factor in its continued use in our car; we'll see how it goes.
We don't have any of the noises that so many Neon owners report as piston slap. It's difficult for me because I have no objective way to say it's better for us. I guess time will tell. Current budgetary constraints are really the only factor in its continued use in our car; we'll see how it goes.
I used Redline until I discovered GC.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Quote:
I used Redline until I discovered GC.
================================================
There's no GC on store shelves to discover.
It came
A few bought
Now it's gone
I used Redline until I discovered GC.
================================================
There's no GC on store shelves to discover.
It came
A few bought
Now it's gone
I discovered over 50 quarts. The new GC is also on shelves. I discovered 5 quarts of that recently.
I've used the RL 5w20. For normal driving,its a total waste of money. I,ve switched to Mobil 1 0w20 (stockpiled a whole bunch) and it is just as good,not to mention cheaper. In my opinion,RL makes absolutely no sense unless you are really driving your car hard and pushing it to the limits,otherwise,it's overkill (unless you want the cleanest engine in town).
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