Fleet oil intervals to save money?
- Thread starter Todd00000
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Originally Posted by dogememe
You're using AMSOIL SS which is rated for 15K miles for severe duty and 25K miles for regular use.
Extend your oil changes to 15K miles and ditch the oil analysis and you'll be saving a lot of money.
As for all the people complaining about your choice of a commuter car, screw them. You get better fuel economy than my 4 cylinder Escape and I'm sure you enjoy your commute far more than I do.
Exactly!
You're using AMSOIL SS which is rated for 15K miles for severe duty and 25K miles for regular use.
Extend your oil changes to 15K miles and ditch the oil analysis and you'll be saving a lot of money.
As for all the people complaining about your choice of a commuter car, screw them. You get better fuel economy than my 4 cylinder Escape and I'm sure you enjoy your commute far more than I do.
Exactly!
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Mad_Hatter said:
It sounds like a good scenario for M1 AP which is good up to 20k or EP which is good up to 15k. You mentioned your engine uses 1.5 quarts in 10k. That would have to be figured in. This is assuming that this is a port injected engine and not a GDI.
Of course, consider the warranty first before making changes.
Of course, consider the warranty first before making changes.
Originally Posted by Todd00000
I commute in a 2019 Mustang 5.0 it currently has 14K miles. It holds 10 quarts of syn and I'm putting 10K miles on her every 3 months, changing 10 quarts of syn every 3 months is too expensive.
Here's what I'm thinking of doing. Next oil change will be Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 and their filter. I'm currently using close to 1.5 quarts every 10K miles.
I will change the filter every 3 months and each time send an oil sample for analysis. I will change the oil when the analysis says to.
Bad idea? OK idea but needs some modifications to be a good idea?
Thanks for your comments.
Todd
Sounds like a great plan to me; one thing I would change is to use the Amsoil filter longer since it is rated for 25,000 miles.
If the added expense of the bypass system (mentioned previously) is not a stretch, that will help as well.
I commute in a 2019 Mustang 5.0 it currently has 14K miles. It holds 10 quarts of syn and I'm putting 10K miles on her every 3 months, changing 10 quarts of syn every 3 months is too expensive.
Here's what I'm thinking of doing. Next oil change will be Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 and their filter. I'm currently using close to 1.5 quarts every 10K miles.
I will change the filter every 3 months and each time send an oil sample for analysis. I will change the oil when the analysis says to.
Bad idea? OK idea but needs some modifications to be a good idea?
Thanks for your comments.
Todd
Sounds like a great plan to me; one thing I would change is to use the Amsoil filter longer since it is rated for 25,000 miles.
If the added expense of the bypass system (mentioned previously) is not a stretch, that will help as well.
So if you want to save money, your owner's manual states the oil needs to meet Ford specification WSS-M2C946-B1. Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil meets that spec and is under $20 for five quarts at Walmart. That will go the interval as specified in your owner's manual for your driving conditions. Since the oil is also API SN Plus it will work just as well for any other vehicle in your fleet that requires that license.
There is no need for Amsoil, nor a bypass filter, nor UOA, all of which will increase your costs, not decrease them.
There is no need for Amsoil, nor a bypass filter, nor UOA, all of which will increase your costs, not decrease them.
Get two 6 quart boxes of Havoline. Use the extra 2 quarts for the 1.5 quarts you're using. Get a Wix filter. All of this is $50 bucks.
Originally Posted by Ignatius
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
[censored], does anyone read anymore?
I'VE DONE THE MATH.
A one year interval can save me $450 a year, plus time.
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
[censored], does anyone read anymore?
I'VE DONE THE MATH.
A one year interval can save me $450 a year, plus time.
Originally Posted by kschachn
So if you want to save money, your owner's manual states the oil needs to meet Ford specification WSS-M2C946-B1. Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil meets that spec and is under $20 for five quarts at Walmart. That will go the interval as specified in your owner's manual for your driving conditions. Since the oil is also API SN Plus it will work just as well for any other vehicle in your fleet that requires that license.
There is no need for Amsoil, nor a bypass filter, nor UOA, all of which will increase your costs, not decrease them.
Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger
Get two 6 quart boxes of Havoline. Use the extra 2 quarts for the 1.5 quarts you're using. Get a Wix filter. All of this is $50 bucks.
I've considered this COA, but my OCD won't let me. LOL
So if you want to save money, your owner's manual states the oil needs to meet Ford specification WSS-M2C946-B1. Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil meets that spec and is under $20 for five quarts at Walmart. That will go the interval as specified in your owner's manual for your driving conditions. Since the oil is also API SN Plus it will work just as well for any other vehicle in your fleet that requires that license.
There is no need for Amsoil, nor a bypass filter, nor UOA, all of which will increase your costs, not decrease them.
Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger
Get two 6 quart boxes of Havoline. Use the extra 2 quarts for the 1.5 quarts you're using. Get a Wix filter. All of this is $50 bucks.
I've considered this COA, but my OCD won't let me. LOL
Well that's fine, but in accordance with your first post that's the answer.
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Ignatius
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
[censored], does anyone read anymore?
I'VE DONE THE MATH.
A one year interval can save me $450 a year, plus time.
Dude, this is just bizarre. You want to do 40k oil changes on a brand new performance car that is still under warranty? I mean I get the warranty will be over after another year but I wouldn't want to toss it away before I was over in mileage either.
Originally Posted by Ignatius
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
You need to get a commuter is what you need to do. I don't get how all of a sudden it's "too expensive" only 14k miles into ownership. Sounds to me like you bought the wrong car... good luck.
It's a base GT, only cost 35K. I don't want a boring commuter car. I also was shopping the Civic Type R but couldn't find the one I wanted. I get 25mpg when I use cruise control.
So it sounds like your intention was to buy a car that you (hopefully) knew would have a higher cost of operation and now you don't want to pay for that higher cost of operation.
The solution you propose is buying some of the most expensive oil available and overpriced oil filters as well as paying extra to get UOAs done?
I would like to offer advice but I think it might be better for you to simply take responsibility for the results and consequences of you decisions. That's life
[censored], does anyone read anymore?
I'VE DONE THE MATH.
A one year interval can save me $450 a year, plus time.
Dude, this is just bizarre. You want to do 40k oil changes on a brand new performance car that is still under warranty? I mean I get the warranty will be over after another year but I wouldn't want to toss it away before I was over in mileage either.
Dude, this is just bizarre. You want to do 40k oil changes on a brand new performance car that is still under warranty? I mean I get the warranty will be over after another year but I wouldn't want to toss it away before I was over in mileage either. [/quote]
Never said I was going to violate it.
Never said I was going to violate it.
Originally Posted by Todd00000
Dude, this is just bizarre. You want to do 40k oil changes on a brand new performance car that is still under warranty? I mean I get the warranty will be over after another year but I wouldn't want to toss it away before I was over in mileage either.
Never said I was going to violate it. [/quote]
So, like fake receipts or something? Because without receipts you have no warranty...
Anyway, I do think 40k changes with 10 quarts and all freeway is doable with the right oil and a few filter changes, but I wouldn't do it until after warranty and in that car, it just doesn't make any sense. Fuel and depreciation alone are way, way greater factors than a few bucks in oil.
Dude, this is just bizarre. You want to do 40k oil changes on a brand new performance car that is still under warranty? I mean I get the warranty will be over after another year but I wouldn't want to toss it away before I was over in mileage either.
Never said I was going to violate it. [/quote]
So, like fake receipts or something? Because without receipts you have no warranty...
Anyway, I do think 40k changes with 10 quarts and all freeway is doable with the right oil and a few filter changes, but I wouldn't do it until after warranty and in that car, it just doesn't make any sense. Fuel and depreciation alone are way, way greater factors than a few bucks in oil.
go buy motor oil on clearance or send in rebates.. usually syn under $3/qt
You want to chance early death and or other engine issues to save 250$ over 5 years?.. but wait you are spending a large chunk of that on oil analysis and amsoil.
makes no sense.. if you want to save money go get some m1 EP and send in rebate.. it would cost half as much as the amsoil and skip the oil analysis.
You want to chance early death and or other engine issues to save 250$ over 5 years?.. but wait you are spending a large chunk of that on oil analysis and amsoil.
makes no sense.. if you want to save money go get some m1 EP and send in rebate.. it would cost half as much as the amsoil and skip the oil analysis.
I think Todd had a good question and came to the right place to ask it. We've given him some good advice and now he can decide where to go from here.
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