First oil change on Predator

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I recently bought a new Predator 5.5hp engine to repower my Honda powered Craftsman push mower. When should I change the oil for the first time? I’m running ST full synthetic 10w30 currently. Also the manual says the change the oil monthly? That doesn’t seem right.
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I would run it about 10 hours and change the oil. After that every year or 20 hours. Once a month seems like total nonsense especially if you only run it 5 hours a month.
 
Probably a few hours & no more than 5. Stagger it from there. So, 2, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, etc. Every 25 would probably land you about once or twice a year?
 
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I go to Walmart and buy a quart of the cheapest non synthetic oil I can find that meets the spec of the engine.

I run the motor no load for a minute or two them put a load on it and run it like it will be used for about an hour.


Then I drain the oil and put in more of the non synthetic oil - run it for a few hours more and then after draining - use any remaining non synthetic that is left and top it off with whatever oil I will be using - usually synthetic.

Then I will go about 1/2 way to the oil change interval I will be using - usually 25 hours so after about 12 I would change it again.

Running the engine for a few hours synthetic has no advantages over non synthetic -

The problem I had last time I broke in an engine - Walmart did not have any non synthetic oil except stuff that was $10 a quart.

So I ended up with SuperTec synthetic blend.
 
When I bought my generator I looked through a lot of posts on a go-cart forum that use these Chinese engines for go-kart racing. The generally accepted procedure there was run 1 hour on the initial fill, then one hour on a clean fill, then change again and run whatever OCI you like or OEM recommends.

I followed their directions. First drain came out loaded with metal. The fluid itself was also a milky color, I assume from the assembly pre-lube.

Second fill came out with a fair bit of wear material but not bad.

I only run the generator a few times a year, but after a couple hours use I drained again just to check, and it was perfectly clean.
 
The Predator manuals you can pretty much throw right in the garbage. Useless. I'm not sure if it is a language barrier when they are translated or what, but every piece of Harbor Freight equipment with a gas engine the manuals make no sense and leave a lot to be desired.

I've done tons of Predator engine swaps over the years for customers. You generally want to change the break-in oil after a couple hours, and do that a few times because they seem to shed material for a little while. By the third oil change I usually stop seeing so much metal. You can run pretty much anything for oil as long as you keep it full, I prefer a HDEO like Rotella 15w40, but 10w30 PCMO is more than fine.

The one thing I do recommend is change out the "Torch" factory spark plug with an equivalent NGK. The Torch plugs have a high rate of failure. So high that I now incorporate an NGK plug into my re-power cost for customers, because I occasionally had no-start come backs with the Torch plugs.
 
The Predator manuals you can pretty much throw right in the garbage. Useless. I'm not sure if it is a language barrier when they are translated or what, but every piece of Harbor Freight equipment with a gas engine the manuals make no sense and leave a lot to be desired.

I've done tons of Predator engine swaps over the years for customers. You generally want to change the break-in oil after a couple hours, and do that a few times because they seem to shed material for a little while. By the third oil change I usually stop seeing so much metal. You can run pretty much anything for oil as long as you keep it full, I prefer a HDEO like Rotella 15w40, but 10w30 PCMO is more than fine.

The one thing I do recommend is change out the "Torch" factory spark plug with an equivalent NGK. The Torch plugs have a high rate of failure. So high that I now incorporate an NGK plug into my re-power cost for customers, because I occasionally had no-start come backs with the Torch plugs.
Spoken like a man who has crossed that bridge many times... And completely true IMO.
 
All chinese engines should have factory fill drained in 1 hour, then 2 on the next and make an assesment on the metal shavings. I often see these require a few 2 hour changes to get the sparkle out. Then you can go to seasonal or 25 hrs. Do not exceed 25 hrs even with excellent expensive oils as there is no oil filter.

Ideally this works most of the time, 1 hr, then 2hr, then 5 hr, then 25 thereafter.
 
My new Honda 160cc (5-ish hp?) lawnmower manual said to change the oil after 5 hrs and then every 100 hours. After the first mow (about 1 hour) the oil was very glittery. So I changed it after the first mow and the metallic glitter was very evident in the oil pan when in the sun light.

I changed the oil a second time after a few more mows (a few hours), more glitter. After a few more changes in the first 20 hours the oil stayed clean. Now I change it every two years (about 60hrs run time) and it comes out still looking rather clear and amber.

I used regular inexpensive automotive 10W-30 for the first few changes. It has been running on Mobil1 10W-30 for the last 18 years and still going strong.
 
First oil change ought to be around 3 to 5 hours max, do that at least twice and no more than 50 hours max after. Even with minimal use you probably want to change it about every 2 years max due to oil anti oxidents breaking down.
 
First oil change ought to be around 3 to 5 hours max, do that at least twice and no more than 50 hours max after. Even with minimal use you probably want to change it about every 2 years max due to oil anti oxidents breaking down.
Pretty much my thoughts on the subject. Interestingly, these engines are known to be fairly well made and do hold up.
 
Just remember the owners manual is the MINIMUM you need to do -

It doesn't mean every XXX hours is the best OCI and it also does not mean 10W30 SL or whatever is the best oil.

If you pay hundreds of dollars - sometimes a lot more than that and you scrimp on changing the oil so you save $4 a year that seems like a poor solution.

I recall a commercial when I was a kid that said - pay me now or pay me later




Main bearing job $200!!! OMG 1972 prices are the bomb.

BTW I used Fram oil filters back in 1972 - but no way I put that on anything I drive now.
 
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