How Old Is Your Lawn Mower(s)?? And How Many Hours Approximately?

don't the gcv engines have a timing belt inside the engine and the crankcase splits in half?
They do, but honestly the whole time I've been working on small engines (since 2003 or so) I've never had to split one or replace a timing belt. They are not expensive engines, if one is worn out I'd replace it. I own two GCV190s, one on a logsplitter, and another on a pressure washer. For a Honda lawn mower I'd be tempted to replace a GCV160 with a GXV160 commercial engine.

https://engines.honda.com/models/model-detail/gxv160#Features
 
I have a Honda powered (GCV-160), 21" Craftsman mower. I had an hour meter attached to the handle at one time but the vibrations cracked the case. The mower is +20 years old.

After break-in, it's had nothing but Mobil 1, 10w-30. Upon re-start, the exhaust has a distinctive odor. I think I changed the spark plug once (NGK).

Started it up last month after it has been sitting for ~18 months. Started on the first pull. Filled with E10 and StaBil. I do run the carb bowl empty at the end of each season.
 
Just curious, how old is your lawn mower (and what lawn mower is it)?? Brand? Push mower, walk behind, riding mower?

I‘ll go first: I have a Troy Bilt 430 push mower, bought in 2008 and still going strong after 16 years. I also have a Toro 20330 Recycler walk behind self propelled mower, bought in 2010 and also going strong after 14 years. Both have Briggs and Stratton L-head engines (both about 190 cc “6.75 torque”) and have plenty of power to get the job done. Each gets roughly 20 or so hours of use per year, so about 320 hours on the TB and about 280 hours on the Toro. I use Amsoil synthetic 5W-30 motor oil on both. I try to change the oil every season but wind up not always doing that.
Sears Craftsman push mower from 2002 with a 6.75 Briggs. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 hours per year, so about 800 or so hours.
Oil change a couple of times a year and air filter at least once a year, spark plug every few years. I've never had an issue with plugs though. I keep it clean and greased and it is still in great shape. So far I've had to replace two wheels and the engine brake cable.
 
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< My neighbor is an old lawn mower .
 
I have a Yardman 21" push mower (made by MTD), self propelled with a 6.5hp Briggs and Stratton engine with the "Touch-N-Mow" starter system. I purchased this unit in 1998 so it's 26 years old. The engine needs rings or maybe an overbore and a new piston and rings as it's starting to use oil and smokes a little. Other than ttit works fine. I think I'm on my third or fourth blade as I sharpened them so much they got pretty thin on the ends. It has ~650 hours on it. Our mowing season here is from May to the end of October and I mowed ~ 1 hour per week. The "Touch-N-Mow" starter still works and from what I've heard that is a rarity as the spring that provides the cranking power was prone to breakage after a few years. Briggs and Stratton no longer offer this start system, It has a rope recoil starter as well so if the starter system fails, it can still be started. I changed oil yearly up to a few years back when it started to use oil excessively. I just keep adding oil every use so in a season it gets at least 2 if not 3 oil changes LOL. I have kept increasing the oil viscosity to slow the oil consumption and am currently up to 15W-40, the same as I use in my diesel pickup.
Hey Great White North,

Before you tear into your Briggs engine to check out the rings, there's an easier thing to check first. At about this age, Briggs motors often suffer from a clogged Crankcase Breather Vent. This can cause oil to be sucked into the air cleaner and into the carburetor.

To check for this, take the air filter off and see if there's any oil in it.

If it looks something like this, then there's the problem.

TroyBilt Oil Leak 01 (smaller).jpg


The fix is much easier than a ring job. Locate and remove the Crankcase Breather Vent
(it's behind the muffler).

If it's clogged, it will look something like this:

TroyBilt Oil Leak Dirty Breather Vent (small).jpeg


Just replace it. But before bolting In a new one, inspect the valve spring chamber,
and use shop sir to blow out the little drain hole:

TroyBilt Oil Leak Valve Springs 04 (small).jpeg


Good luck with it all, and post back to tell us how it went.
 
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Hey Great White North,

Before you tear into your Briggs engine to check out the rings, there's an easier thing to check first. At about this age, Briggs motors often suffer from a clogged Crankcase Breather Vent. This can cause oil to be sucked into the air cleaner and into the carburetor.

To check for this, take the air filter off and see if there's any oil in it.

If it looks something like this, then there's the problem.

View attachment 225723

The fix is much easier than a ring job. Locate and remove the Crankcase Breather Vent
(it's behind the muffler).

If it's clogged, it will look something like this:

View attachment 225724

Just replace it. But before bolting In a new one, inspect the valve spring chamber,
and use shop sir to blow out the little drain hole:

View attachment 225725

Good luck with it all, and post back to tell us how it went.
Thanks for the tip. I'll check that when I'm back home this fall as we're currently spending our summer at our RV about 100 miles from our home.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll check that when I'm back home this fall as we're currently spending our summer at our RV about 100 miles from our home.
Hope you are enjoying your RV.

As for the clogged Crankcase Breather Vent, I have often wondered if this is a minor design flaw.

Back in the day, Briggs used little 'muffin' mufflers, or cigar mufflers, and the Breather Vent had clear air around it.

But the current 'Low Tone' muffler covers over the Breather Vent, radiates heat into it, and may be shortening its life. Then again, this problem usually won't show up for several years and hundreds of hours. Lots of folks don't keep a mower that long.

This is the 2'nd time I've put a new Breather Vent on this mower. I'm thinking about putting a little square of heat shielding material between the Low Tone muffler and the Breather Vent, to see if that helps it last longer.

But that's all for now. I'll stop here before I drag this thread any more off topic.
 
I have a 2003 Craftsman riding mower, powered by a Kohler Command I 17 HP engine, that I bought new. I estimate it has around 800-900 hours on it, from 22 cutting seasons of a flat 1 acre yard. I have definitely gotten my money's worth out of it. It is used at my second house at the moment. Normal wear and tear items (belts / blades / filters / battery), as well as deck mandrels, idler pulleys, front rims / tires.

I also have a 2017 Cub Cadet XT1 riding mower, powered by a Kohler Courage 18 HP engine, that I bought used. Its hourmeter shows around 450 hours; the previous owner used it to cut a little over 3 acres. My current yard is only 2/3 acre, but has some slopes. I had to replace the throttle cable shortly after purchase, but so far it is doing the job.
 
Mine is a 2007 John Deere X300 purchased new in the fall of 2007. Just turned 230 hours on it.

My push mower is some Troy Bilt /MTD thing that I picked up on CL about 8 years ago. Cost was $20. It does what is required in its limited role as a trim mower.
 
2023 Toro Titan Max 60 with 26 HP Kohler. The unit has 70 hours on it.
Previous mower I ran for five years was a Gravely ZT HD 52 with Kawasaki engine. The ergos and sticks on the Gravely were superior to the Toro. The sticks on the Toro are quite sensitive so it can be twitchy if you aren't careful. The cut quality, and ability to cut low without scalping goes to the Toro. I do prefer the Kohler over the Kawi so far.
 
My main one I use anymore turned 50 last year.

Lawn Boy 7262, no idea of hours but I probably put 30 on it last year(first year I'd used it as my main). When I bought it, it needed a new ignition coil, or rather I grabbed one off a parts mower(I do have a new one if I ever decide to make that parts mower not-parts). I actually don't think I even touched the carb, although the mower did get a thorough cleaning. I did throw a new blade on it. The one on it was okay, but I prefer the modern single piece design with more lift especially as I find they work better for mulching. As to that end, I threw a mulch fan on also, as even if I'm running side discharge and not the mulch plate, I find that the fan seems to help clear the deck and throw grass a little better(it will throw ~8ft).

This one is a 21" push mower with a magnesium deck. Pretty simple and basic, although it does have electronic ignition.

I have a few other Lawn Boys of this general age around, including 19" models with both the D400 engine(points ignition) and a 19" with a D600 engine. The D400 is a beautifully restored Bricktop that runs great, but I can't bring myself to actually use it. If nothing else, I want to find some used-but-serviceable wheels to put on it, as it currently has NOS never used wheels and I can't bring myself to grass stain them.
I had a 7262 until a couple years ago. That D600 engine is a stout little beast for only being rated at 3-1/2 hp. I also have a 5024 Bricktop. Between the D433 on that and the D600 on the 7262 I used to have, they are simplicity at its finest. Used to have a 5254 unit I gave it away earlier this spring. And I still have my 5277 Vader with the F100 engine. Been honestly thinking about selling my Bricktop and just keeping the 5277. It was built in 1978 and runs great, but I bought all the parts to rebuild/freshen the engine to keep it running even longer.

L8R,
Matt
 
These are my two babies and I alternate between them mowing. A 1975 Lawn-Boy 5024 Bricktop, and a 1978 Lawn-Boy 5277 Vader. Both usually start on the first pull, but are definitely running by the second pull. No telling how many hours are on these. They’re 46 and 49 years old! The Lawn-Boy 5254 on the right is gone. I donated it earlier this spring, but it was still running just fine too.
IMG_3300.webp


L8R,
Matt
 
I had a 7262 until a couple years ago. That D600 engine is a stout little beast for only being rated at 3-1/2 hp. I also have a 5024 Bricktop. Between the D433 on that and the D600 on the 7262 I used to have, they are simplicity at its finest. Used to have a 5254 unit I gave it away earlier this spring. And I still have my 5277 Vader with the F100 engine. Been honestly thinking about selling my Bricktop and just keeping the 5277. It was built in 1978 and runs great, but I bought all the parts to rebuild/freshen the engine to keep it running even longer.

L8R,
Matt
You really can't kill these old Lawn Boys.

The 19" D400 I referenced is a 5024 also. I bought it from another LB collector/user out of Iowa(made a trip last summer and bought a few from him). He'd completely restored the 5024, including putting new old stock "Triangle" wheels on it. It's so pretty I haven't actually mowed with it-I keep meaning to throw another set of wheels on it and go out to use it, as I don't want to grass stain them. I bought a 5273, which is a 19" D600 "Suitcase" from the same guy, and have used it some
IMG_0014.webp
IMG_0015.webp
IMG_0017.webp


I have an ongoing project that I need to finish, too. I bought an NOS 21" deck for a pre-compliance F(I'm drawing a blank on the number). I had a 19" frankenmower meant for a D400 with an F engine, the wrong shroud, and some other weird things going on-I stripped wheels, adjusters, etc off of it to put on the NOS 21" deck. Not too long ago, I bought the correct mounting/exhaust plate to fit the F engine sitting on a shelf in my garage to that deck, but haven't done it yet. I have a few shrouds to pick from to mount on it, but also need to change the way too short starter string and fit a T handle starter(I have some of those too). Just too much to do and not enough time!

I do agree on the D600 definitely being deceptively powerful. In fact the only reason why I want to get the F engine equivalent to my 7262 is because I like to mulch, and the D600 doesn't do so well if I let the grass get a bit long. I wish these pre-compliance mowers went higher than 3", too...
 
I would still have this if it wasn't for a forest fire taking out its parking space in the woodshed 2 years ago...

2002 JD G100


john deere and cart.JPG
 
View attachment 210270

It's from the 90s. Estimate 300-400 hours. Never apart, untouched carb, completely trouble free ownership on e10 it's entire life.

So ironic that a Tecumseh has been the most reliable piece of OPE I've ever owned or used. I'd love to find a new deck for it.
You can always find some genius who bought a brand new mower and ran it without oil and then sells the mower with a blown engine for cheap.
I just put an old beat up mower engine on a brand new deck I bought for $15, a brand-new mower ran without oil.
 
1989 John Deere RX75. I have no idea how many hours, but it was well used when it was given to me 7 years ago. A friend's sister owned it, and the starter wasn't working. My friend had tried a new battery, but she had already bought a new mower so it was gathering dust. When I mentioned that I was moving out of an HOA and needed a mower, he got this one and gave it to me. Turned out the starter pinion was just sticky and needed a new air filter, but I went and replaced all the drive belts and the brake pads. Other than mysteriously shearing the blade bolt one day, it has been running flawlessly. The John Deere dealer always seems amused that I still have one in service if I order a part for it, and he says they were great mowers.
 
You really can't kill these old Lawn Boys.

The 19" D400 I referenced is a 5024 also. I bought it from another LB collector/user out of Iowa(made a trip last summer and bought a few from him). He'd completely restored the 5024, including putting new old stock "Triangle" wheels on it. It's so pretty I haven't actually mowed with it-I keep meaning to throw another set of wheels on it and go out to use it, as I don't want to grass stain them. I bought a 5273, which is a 19" D600 "Suitcase" from the same guy, and have used it some
View attachment 229385View attachment 229386View attachment 229387

I have an ongoing project that I need to finish, too. I bought an NOS 21" deck for a pre-compliance F(I'm drawing a blank on the number). I had a 19" frankenmower meant for a D400 with an F engine, the wrong shroud, and some other weird things going on-I stripped wheels, adjusters, etc off of it to put on the NOS 21" deck. Not too long ago, I bought the correct mounting/exhaust plate to fit the F engine sitting on a shelf in my garage to that deck, but haven't done it yet. I have a few shrouds to pick from to mount on it, but also need to change the way too short starter string and fit a T handle starter(I have some of those too). Just too much to do and not enough time!

I do agree on the D600 definitely being deceptively powerful. In fact the only reason why I want to get the F engine equivalent to my 7262 is because I like to mulch, and the D600 doesn't do so well if I let the grass get a bit long. I wish these pre-compliance mowers went higher than 3", too...
My 5024 with the bagger. Nowhere near as clean as yours. I originally bought it to do a total resto to it, but I just enjoyed mowing with it so much. I knew if I did, I’d end up getting it all scuffed up and dirty again.
20200503_185128913_iOS.webp


L8R,
Matt
 
1989 John Deere RX75. I have no idea how many hours, but it was well used when it was given to me 7 years ago. A friend's sister owned it, and the starter wasn't working. My friend had tried a new battery, but she had already bought a new mower so it was gathering dust. When I mentioned that I was moving out of an HOA and needed a mower, he got this one and gave it to me. Turned out the starter pinion was just sticky and needed a new air filter, but I went and replaced all the drive belts and the brake pads. Other than mysteriously shearing the blade bolt one day, it has been running flawlessly. The John Deere dealer always seems amused that I still have one in service if I order a part for it, and he says they were great mowers.
My (now) wife had a 1988 JD RX75 when we met, using it to cut a 1/3 acre yard. We used it for 15 years, when it was replaced by a Craftsman LT2000. The JD was okay, but its 30" deck wasn't big enough for the next house we had, with a 1 acre yard. The Craftsman replacement had a 42" deck, as well as more HP.

While we had the JD, I had to replace the steering sector gear twice, and both front spindles once. I also had to replace all 4 tires towards the end of ownership. The Kawasaki engine ran great. After we got the Craftsman, we gave the JD mower away to some people we knew.
 
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