Yes, the pan on the 1.4 TSI is steel.
First oil change on Jetta today
- Thread starter gregk24
- Start date
EA211 is steel, while EA888 3G is plastic (as well as current Porsche 911 and some Ford)
(EA113 was cast aluminum, EA888 1G/2G was steel)
To be more precise, EA888 3G oil pan is a two-piece design. The upper part is aluminum,
while the lower and bigger part is glassfibre reinforced nylon. A steel drain plug would
likely damage the plastic pan, so the plug needs to be plastic as well. It uses an O-ring
and is a very nice to use bajonet style.
What about the EA888 3G factory fitted drain plug? Any different too? I didn't notice any
differerence, but that doesn't necessarily mean a thing.
.
(EA113 was cast aluminum, EA888 1G/2G was steel)
To be more precise, EA888 3G oil pan is a two-piece design. The upper part is aluminum,
while the lower and bigger part is glassfibre reinforced nylon. A steel drain plug would
likely damage the plastic pan, so the plug needs to be plastic as well. It uses an O-ring
and is a very nice to use bajonet style.
What about the EA888 3G factory fitted drain plug? Any different too? I didn't notice any
differerence, but that doesn't necessarily mean a thing.
.
The factory plug has a captive steel spring washer that is supposed to be one time use.
This plug is available and is the one that at least a 2019 Jetta 1.4t calls for the the ETK, Yes the pan is steel.
A lot of dealers will give you a plug without a captive washer and a crush washer. At least one dealer claims there is a TSB that says replace the plug with captive washer with the one without, but no one has produced said TSB for me as yet.
If it's a steel drain plug it's probably fitted with a non-removable washer and VW wants to sell you a new plug. A $6 drain plug earns them more profit than a $0.50 washer. Just cut off the washer and use a new copper or aluminum washer from your local AP store.
Cut it off? That’s a lot of work when you can buy a new one for next to nothing. Again, ECS sends you a new plug and washer with each oil change kit.
I think it’s meant to tellIn the Speedometer, there is a green indicator that is illuminated……what does that represent.
You to put foot on brake then shift to drive
Do you own a pair of cutting pliers? It is very easy to do.
Cutting off the washer takes a second with side cutter pliers. One quick snip and a twist or two quick snips is all it takes. Why throw away a perfectly good drain plug? I don't buy oil change kits.
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I'm not sure y'all understand the washer, admittedly I have not tried but I don't think you are going cut off this particular drain plug washer with side cutters...
They are usually a couple bucks, in fact were I so inclined i could be out of the local dealer for under 48 bucks for 4 litres of oil, a plug and a filter.
FWIW, the plug without the washer and the one with are not the same length either.
They are usually a couple bucks, in fact were I so inclined i could be out of the local dealer for under 48 bucks for 4 litres of oil, a plug and a filter.
FWIW, the plug without the washer and the one with are not the same length either.
*snip*I'm not sure y'all understand the washer, admittedly I have not tried but I don't think you are going cut off this particular drain plug washer with side cutters...
They are usually a couple bucks, in fact were I so inclined i could be out of the local dealer for under 48 bucks for 4 litres of oil, a plug and a filter.
FWIW, the plug without the washer and the one with are not the same length either.
I don't see how drain plug length matters. If you use an oil temperature sensor drain plug it will have a different length and thread count.
The longer one is from an Atlas, washer removed. Part number N90813202.
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Thanks for sharing. I am planning to do it at 5000 kms (3300 miles), 3 times till I hit the official 10k maintenance, then at every 5k afterwards. I was wondering if you check the oil level before draining it. Also I'm stuck with OEM 508.00, as we have very limited number of alternatives here.
I'm at 200 miles right now and found that the oil level was just a little bit under the full mark (0.1-0.2 qts), I wasn't sure if they didn't fill it up to full level or if it's burning oil. I'll definitely monitor it closely going forward.
It was down a bit by 1000 miles, maybe 0.2 quarts. The 1.4 TSI is known to consume a bit, especially during break in. I'm not worried. My mother in law goes 10K between changes on hers and it stays in range.
The 1.4t already has an oil temp sensor.
I don't really see how the length matters (within reason) either, but I prefer to do things correctly and using the correct parts, as far as I can verify the plug with the captive washer is correct. If anyone can produce the TSB stating otherwise I would love to see it.
As far as oil consumption - IIRC mine burned on the order of 500ml in the first 9500 miles, also there is a fairly specific checking procedure and a "safe" zone, if it is in the safe zone you're fine.
I changed the oil early on my new WRX a couple weeks ago..... You beat me by one mile! 971 miles.
With the one-time use drain plug you won't have to check if the old washer is stuck on the pan and you won't forget to put a new washer on the drain plug.
With the one-time use drain plug you won't have to check if the old washer is stuck on the pan and you won't forget to put a new washer on the drain plug.
I would do that anyway, because it is the right thing to do.
I must say I don't appreciate what seems to be your flippant and dismissive attitude toward a reasonable discussion of whether there is in fact a bulletin specifying one or the other drain plug and my desire to use the correct parts.
They certainly should come up with a TSB on the drain plug.
I don't care if you buy a new drain plug every time. I find it silly, but I'm not telling you what to do. I'm surprised you feel slighted over my opinion on a drain plug washer. I'll go back to sensitivity training. 
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