Filter outer diameters

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I'm getting together the stuff I'll need for the latest oil change on the Buick with the 3.8 engine, the first I've done on it myself. A Purolator Pure One PL10111 is ready to go on. My plan was to use the oil filter cap wrench I already had, which fits the Purolator perfectly. However, the cap, I found when I crawled under the car, is too loose on the filter that's on there now. Not sure, but I think that one is a Wix (it's black, whereas the ACDelco PF47, the stock filter, is blue). I bought another cap wrench last night, though I might be able to pad the original cap wrench with something so it will grip the current filter.

My question is: Is it possible for a filter to fit your engine properly, yet be larger in the outer diameter than another which also fits?
 
I suppose but ive never ran into that problem on my GM cars,usually all pf52/47 style filters have been the same,you need to use a strap type wrench then you'll know it'll fit.
 
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
My question is: Is it possible for a filter to fit your engine properly, yet be larger in the outer diameter than another which also fits?


Possible

if anything, stick a screwdriver through the filter and use it to get the filter off
thumbsup2.gif
 
Yep, had that happen before on my LeSabre. It doesn't matter much to me since with a nitrile-gloved hand the filters come off with a good twist. Putting them on a little past finger-tight with a skim of oil on the seal helps greatly in getting the durned thing off again in 8k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
A Purolator Pure One PL10111 is ready to go on. My plan was to use the oil filter cap wrench I already had, which fits the Purolator perfectly.


If you can get a good grip on the PureONE when you put it on, you shouldn't need a cap wrench to install it, or to remove it when the time comes. The grippy yellow coating works well for hand installation and removal.

I must have 10 different filter end cap wrenches because filters do not follow a standard for the size and flute numbers on the end for cap wrenches. I've even had to by 2 or 3 different ones for the same car depending on what brand filter I use. Now I use the PureONE and don't need any wrenches at all.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: daman
yup the grippy is sweet,just put it on reasonably tight and shouldn't be a bear to get off.


3/4 turn from first base contact is what Purolator says. I don't go any tighter than 3/4 turn and have never had a leak.
 
As long as the thread is right, and the gasket close, a wide range of filters can be used. On GM engines, the bypass is in the block, so unless the filter has a bypass with a lower setting, it won't make any difference. From there, you move on to the dark side of the moon as for as efficiency and dirt holding capacity.

Checking the PF 1177 specified for my truck. Can't find the diameter on the AC site

Wix 51381 3.660''
Champ 2856A 3.8i''
Fram 3950 3.66''
Purolator L10193 3.70''

So I couldn't count on the same socket fitting them all.
 
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
I'm getting together the stuff I'll need for the latest oil change on the Buick with the 3.8 engine, the first I've done on it myself. A Purolator Pure One PL10111 is ready to go on. My plan was to use the oil filter cap wrench I already had, which fits the Purolator perfectly. However, the cap, I found when I crawled under the car, is too loose on the filter that's on there now. Not sure, but I think that one is a Wix (it's black, whereas the ACDelco PF47, the stock filter, is blue). I bought another cap wrench last night, though I might be able to pad the original cap wrench with something so it will grip the current filter.

My question is: Is it possible for a filter to fit your engine properly, yet be larger in the outer diameter than another which also fits?



I am interested to know brand and part number once you get the filter off
 
This is allegedly a bypass filter ..but since you've got an in block bypass valve ...
21.gif


Part Number: 51387
Principal Application: Mitsubishi FE Series Trucks
All Applications
Service:
Media: Paper
Height: 4.354
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 18X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 250
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 6
shocked2.gif


Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.538 2.224 0.200
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
This is allegedly a bypass filter ..but since you've got an in block bypass valve ...
21.gif


Part Number: 51387
Principal Application: Mitsubishi FE Series Trucks
All Applications
Service:
Media: Paper
Height: 4.354
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 18X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 250
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 6
shocked2.gif


Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.538 2.224 0.200


what filter is this G?
 
Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
A Purolator Pure One PL10111 is ready to go on. My plan was to use the oil filter cap wrench I already had, which fits the Purolator perfectly.


If you can get a good grip on the PureONE when you put it on, you shouldn't need a cap wrench to install it, or to remove it when the time comes. The grippy yellow coating works well for hand installation and removal.

I must have 10 different filter end cap wrenches because filters do not follow a standard for the size and flute numbers on the end for cap wrenches. I've even had to by 2 or 3 different ones for the same car depending on what brand filter I use. Now I use the PureONE and don't need any wrenches at all.
thumbsup2.gif


Right; I was unclear when I wrote that. I meant I wanted to use the existing cap wrench on the current black filter. Naturally I'll install the PureOne by hand, and then in October/November, when OC time comes around again, I'll hope I won't have to use the cap wrench to get it off. Though it does fit, as I said.

Your answer, 2 or 3 cap wrenches for the same car depending on the brand of filter, sets my mind at ease. No problem, then. If I can't get the current Wix-or-whatever off using my gloved hand, I'll try (a) wedging another glove, or a scrap of rubber bath mat, into the cap wrench for a tighter fit and more traction; or (b) use the smaller cap I just bought. (Though I'm hoping not to have to employ it, so I can take it back for a refund.)
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
This is allegedly a bypass filter ..but since you've got an in block bypass valve ...
21.gif


Part Number: 51387
Principal Application: Mitsubishi FE Series Trucks
All Applications
Service:
Media: Paper
Height: 4.354
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 18X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 250
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 6
shocked2.gif


Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.538 2.224 0.200


what filter is this G?


It's just one of the x'ref'd filters from Donaldson when I put in 18x1.5M into Donaldson's attribute search. In a Donaldson it's got its own bypass valve. It's listed as a bypass filter there too.

He could probably use it if he wanted to try it. It's probably got enough added holding capacity to compensate for the much higher nominal rate. His in block bypass should cover him ..or so I would reason.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
This is allegedly a bypass filter ..but since you've got an in block bypass valve ...
21.gif





As long as its not restricted in flow like Baldwin or Wix bypass.
 
Most GM's, in my observations (over decades) can run with a totally plugged filter. I've seen SBC's used in anything from the carpet business to whatever that never see an oil change for 20k-30k with just oil added. Not that they aren't probably wheezing and puffing smoke here and there ..and sure they may even have lifter ticks ..

..but the things are seized due to lack of oil flow since the filter is plugged.

If that flushes, then THAT bypass filter (note the designed flow capacity) would merely have a variable filtering level until the in block bypass closed ..if it was involved at all.

I'm not saying that it's good or bad, just that he can entertain the idea. It's a big filter.
 
Update,

I was all set to change the oil just now . . . but none of the filter wrench solutions would work! The older cap, even stuffed with a bit of rubber mat, wouldn't turn the filter, and the new cap is too loose as well. My gloved hand wouldn't budge it. (Yes, I was turning it lefty loosey -- toward the rear of the car.) And there's no way I'd have room or leverage under there to drive a screwdriver through the filter.

Should have known a strap wrench was the way to go. This, I guess, was a dry run. I'll return the newer cap and get a strap.
 
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