Purolator One PL14476 14.8 Hours

[fantastic]

Off Kawasaki 17 HP w/partial rebuild and I bought my first filter cutter so feel like a big boy now.

I ran 9.7 hours on some Diesel Brothers Synthetic Blend (Back when Discovery channel boys were getting fame) then changed the oil to 5w-40 Rotella T6 for the remainder 4.8 hours to equal a total of 14.8 hours on this filter. They say to change the filter after 5 hours after rebuild but I wanted to get my moneys worth.

The end cap was loose but is secured under leaf spring tension so not concerned about it. It should stay in place though. Engine did get at least 250F+ while mowing & was measured on the outside of aluminum motor housing w/ thermal gun. Also, there is a gasket they're putting on the bypass valve which I think is awesome and might satisfy some of us folks that wonder about the light test.

Had to move the x2 cutter wheels down to the other notch since this filter is small.

@Sayjac do you see the black rubber around the outer edge of bypass valve down in the bottom of the can? There is a round gasket sandwiched under the spring pressure. I can do the flashlight test just let me know.

All louvers were perfect. . You can see the outer edge of the black gasket a little better below.

 

[fantastic]

There's some shiny sparkles.

The way it currently sits to dry out. I'll post back when get more media pics.

 

[4wd]

View attachment 232485
There's some shiny sparkles.
View attachment 232486
View attachment 232487
The way it currently sits to dry out. I'll post back when get more media pics.
View attachment 232488

Looks good …
If you pluck the gasket first thing - less drag whilst cutting

 

[cptbarkey]

Filter cutters are a legit and good practice to get insight on the general health of the engine. That looks way better then the B&S oil change I did today on my push mower which looked akin to liquid metal. What went back in?

 

[53' Stude]

Off Kawasaki 17 HP w/partial rebuild and I bought my first filter cutter so feel like a big boy now.

I ran 9.7 hours on some Diesel Brothers Synthetic Blend (Back when Discovery channel boys were getting fame) then changed the oil to 5w-40 Rotella T6 for the remainder 4.8 hours to equal a total of 14.8 hours on this filter. They say to change the filter after 5 hours after rebuild but I wanted to get my moneys worth.

The end cap was loose but is secured under leaf spring tension so not concerned about it. It should stay in place though. Engine did get at least 250F+ while mowing & was measured on the outside of aluminum motor housing w/ thermal gun. Also, there is a gasket they're putting on the bypass valve which I think is awesome and might satisfy some of us folks that wonder about the light test.

View attachment 232469
Had to move the x2 cutter wheels down to the other notch since this filter is small.
View attachment 232470
View attachment 232471
@Sayjac do you see the black rubber around the outer edge of bypass valve down in the bottom of the can? There is a round gasket sandwiched under the spring pressure. I can do the flashlight test just let me know.
View attachment 232472
All louvers were perfect. . You can see the outer edge of the black gasket a little better below.
View attachment 232480
View attachment 232474
View attachment 232475
View attachment 232473

Nice work. Any filter that metal endcap just falls off: FAIL!

Why I never care/d for Puro stuff. What oil and filter in and on?

 

[fantastic]

Delete Edit: weird duplicate of sorts

 

[fantastic]

Looks good …
If you pluck the gasket first thing - less drag whilst cutting

Obvious newby mistake seen a mile away by the professionals.

Filter cutters are a legit and good practice to get insight on the general health of the engine. That looks way better then the B&S oil change I did today on my push mower which looked akin to liquid metal. What went back in?

Please See response below. It's apart right now to fix what I missed during the 1st rebuild on this engine.

Nice work. Any filter that metal endcap just falls off: FAIK!

Why I never care/d for Puro stuff. What oil and filter in and on?

Engine is torn apart right now but have the SuperTech 15w40 Full Synthetic & a SuperTech ST4967 filter on the shelf ready to use.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/digging-back-into-my-john-deere-garden-tractor.385497/

 

[ZeeOSix]

Also, there is a gasket they're putting on the bypass valve which I think is awesome and might satisfy some of us folks that wonder about the light test.

All louvers were perfect. . You can see the outer edge of the black gasket a little better below.

That's not any kind of sealing "gasket" for the bypass valve. That's just the black potting material that seals the gap between the end of the center tube to the end cap. The flat spiral type bypass valve on Purolators is metal-to-metal. Tear it apart and you'll see how it's made.

Same flat spiral spring bypass valve on a Purolator ... metal-to-metal seal.

 

[Sayjac]

Agree that what is seen around the flat spring bypass area is just the potting material, normal Puro construction. Also agree that the seal is metal to metal. That said, having seen how difficult it is to open by hand alone, I'm confident the seal does what it's supposed to, maintain seal. In fact, some folks have thought since it's so tough to open by hand it doesn't function properly. However, a member @AuthorEditor actually tested it HERE and it checked out to spec psi. Fwiw, I thought that practical test was well done.

As for the endcap popper here, what I can see looks to follow what member Jim Allen said years ago about it's occurrence. He said, "If the potting material stays intact, then spring pressure is enough to seal the metal to it and there is no bypass.". What I can see (clean cap potting area) that looks to be the case here. While preferable not to have/see a popper, don't believe it to be a bypass issue here.

As an aside, since dome seal mentioned, purchased an FE7317 and I plan do c&p soon including flashlight to dome seal area. Curious to see if I get the same or different result than WCW.

Thanks for c&p. Nice oil filter cutter.

 

[fantastic]

Agree that what is seen around the flat spring bypass area is just the potting material, normal Puro construction. Also agree that the seal is metal to metal. That said, having seen how difficult it is to open by hand alone, I'm confident the seal does what it's supposed to, maintain seal. In fact, some folks have thought since it's so tough to open by hand it doesn't function properly. However, a member @AuthorEditor actually tested it HERE and it checked out to spec psi. Fwiw, I thought that practical test was well done.

As for the endcap popper here, what I can see looks to follow what member Jim Allen said years ago about it's occurrence. He said, "If the potting material stays intact, then spring pressure is enough to seal the metal to it and there is no bypass.". What I can see (clean cap potting area) that looks to be the case here. While preferable not to have/see a popper, don't believe it to be a bypass issue here.

As an aside, since dome seal mentioned, purchased an FE7317 and I plan do c&p soon including flashlight to dome seal area. Curious to see if I get the same or different result than WCW.

Thanks for c&p. Nice oil filter cutter.

Doh! You're right. Seems to be glue & not a gasket. I thought this was a revolutionary filter.
Yesterday I grabbed a small screwdriver & pushed down on the bypass that does show metal to metal contact. I agree w/your assessment of the strength of bypass. It was pretty tight & took a bit of effort to open up. I will also mention that the pleats on this filter are quite hard to spread apart. Not sure if that's typical or not but I'll know more when I finish drying the media out.

Good information on the end cap no longer sticking to the glue. The glue does appear to be intact and even. Before I cut the media I'll do the WCW light test. I have a newer bright DeWalt style LED work flashlight that will find a crack. LOL It may be hard to see if there is very little light coming through though since there seems to be a wider plate on the inside bottom of the can (bottom of adbv). I'll wait patiently to see your FE results. Thanks for the cutter comment. It was not the most robust one but I wanted one I could drill a hole in easily if needed to cut a fuel filter with end nipples.

 

[fantastic]

I didn't see a peep of light come through the bypass. Definitely need a more precision flashlight . This one too big and put out a glow on the picture but it was pitch black inside.

@Sayjac no revolutionary "gasket" as I thought.

Red silicone gasket maker made it's way into the filter.
I used it on the oil pan but I'm not going to do that again. There was sparkly metal visible just about everywhere. 14.8 hours of motor knock tends to do that I see. Parts are on order to fix this engine right this time around. Can't wait to tear into the Super Tech once I run it for 15 hours or so next round.

The way it sits in the pan right now ready to show the wife. Funny when I wanted to show her the new filter cutter as she seen it in action she exclaimed " it's just like a can opener". Yes honey just like a can opener.

 

[GW.]

Nice cutter!!

 

[53' Stude]

View attachment 232606
I didn't see a peep of light come through the bypass. Definitely need a more precision flashlight . This one too big and put out a glow on the picture but it was pitch black inside.
View attachment 232607View attachment 232608
@Sayjac no revolutionary "gasket" as I thought.
View attachment 232609
View attachment 232612
View attachment 232613
View attachment 232614
Red silicone gasket maker made it's way into the filter.
I used it on the oil pan but I'm not going to do that again. There was sparkly metal visible just about everywhere. 14.8 hours of motor knock tends to do that I see. Parts are on order to fix this engine right this time around. Can't wait to tear into the Super Tech once I run it for 15 hours or so next round.
View attachment 232615
The way it sits in the pan right now ready to show the wife. Funny when I wanted to show her the new filter cutter as she seen it in action she exclaimed " it's just like a can opener". Yes honey just like a can opener.
View attachment 232616

Good work Justin. You are the prince of filter cutting. BrendanC is the king. Glad filter caught stuff

 

[RichR]

What is the manufacturer of the oil filter cutter?

 

[fantastic]

What is the manufacturer of the oil filter cutter?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B19GH2KZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Kira]

"... the wife..... exclaimed " it's just like a can opener". Yes honey just like a can opener."
BINGO. Now you have someone to cut 'em open FOR you.

Seriously, great, detailed autopsy.

 

[Fair enough]

Good review. Purolator and even more so Fram need to look on this site. The synthetic Boss uses a beige colored glue that there hasn’t been any issues with as far as I know. At least the black glue conforms to the cap. It may be vibration causes it. It wouldn’t be rocket science if they looked at the pictures of end cap not sticking and said let’s change the glue.
Good side view of the bypass valve. I wonder what the parts look like taken apart.

 

[Kira]

I wonder what the parts look like taken apart.

Or line up these valve parts from filters with varying bypass pressures.

Ahhhh...a new debate! Metal vs plastic bypass valves.

 

[Fair enough]

The Purolator is metal on metal. The GM block bypass valves must be metal on metal. Cartridge filters must be metal on metal in there somewhere. Maybe the bypassing by the bypass pro and con wars can be reignited.
Actually some may be plastic on metal looking online at the cartridge filters bypass.

 

[bullwinkle]

The Purolator is metal on metal. The GM block bypass valves must be metal on metal. Cartridge filters must be metal on metal in there somewhere. Maybe the bypassing by the bypass pro and con wars can be reignited.
Actually some may be plastic on metal looking online at the cartridge filters bypass.

The Champs & Frams are nylon on metal-and their leaf springs are permanent bypass ripples on metal!