Ferrari 812 Superfast Oil Consumption

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27,159
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PNW
it doesn't, I haven't had my morning coffee yet.

but it's all a bit mood, as the manual actually states a minimum oil consumption of 1l/1000 km...
So AEHaas didn't post the correct info? So the manual actually says 1L/1000 km ???... if so, that equates to 1.06 qt per 621 miles. Or 1 qt per 658 miles.
 
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5,715
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the canyons
Doh ... yeah. But still 1,000 km is 621 miles ... so it's basically 3 qts per 1,836 miles, not 1,000 miles.

And the first post said "These cars have been out for 3 years and it seems many are reporting up to 3 quarts of oil usage per 1,000 miles. This is “normal” according to the owners manual." 1,000 miles, not 1,000 km.

Actually, it's 1 liter per 310.5 miles or so is acceptable, according to the manual.
 
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27,159
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PNW
the page out of the manual has been posted
Got it - thanks. So worse case per the manual is 2.01 L per 1000 km = 2.12 qt per 621 miles = 1 qt per 293 miles = 3 qts per 879 miles.

So if he's burning 2 qts in 500 miles then it's a bit worse than the worse case spec.
 
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2,201
Location
WA
The better the base stock, the more resistant to oxidation it is, so it burns worse than a simple Group I base oil & will likely result in more deposits, not less.

Good to know. I was under impression that in general, a good syn oil leaves or causes less deposits and gunk, etc. and that more resistant to oxidation is a good thing.

Does it mean that for example a car that burns oil is better off using conventional oil as oppose to syn assuming the same Noack numbers.
 

Zee09

Site Donor 2021
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4,818
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Fairhill Maryland
It was designed that way hence the 14 qt. oil pan. Consumption varies
based on the brand of oil. Experiment with different brands.
 
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80
Good to know. I was under impression that in general, a good syn oil leaves or causes less deposits and gunk, etc. and that more resistant to oxidation is a good thing.

Does it mean that for example a car that burns oil is better off using conventional oil as oppose to syn assuming the same Noack numbers.

This is one of those things that oil formulators, probably should know the answer to but no one ever bothers to definitively check.

That said, I have a very vague recollection of Wankel engines specifying Group I engine oil because it's easier to burn. Wankel rotors are fundamentally more difficult to seal than conventional pistons so the 'burnability' of oil is a much more relevant issue.

So yes, IMHO, if you have an engine that burns oil & have the choice of two oils with the same Noack, you should always opt from the Group I one; not something made from Group II/III/IV or V (or GTL).
 
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163
Location
Australia
How did you break in the engine? How does the Ferrari state you should break-in the engine?

A lot of folks believe the first 50 miles are crucial for allowing the rings to seat, which often requires a good amount of engine load.
Surely such exotic engines are ‘broken-in’ on a test bench before being installed..if only for the protection of the manufacturer
 
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2,201
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WA
@son
Surely such exotic engines are ‘broken-in’ on a test bench before being installed..if only for the protection of the manufacturer

I watch Ultimate Factories on TV and one show was about Lamborghini or Ferrari. iirc, they took the car out of the factory and straight to the race track for the final test.
 

AEHaas

Thread starter
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1,397
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Sarasota, Florida
I went to my car after viewing the parts diagram. The oil stick MIN mark is actually a little bit above one of the vapor lines. Oil over this mark just pours and is sucked into it. The very bottom of the stick should be the real MIN mark and the line on the stick marked as the MIN line now should be the MAX line. Completely ignore the stick's MAX mark. The stick is no more than a foot long and the marks are in the middle of it.
 

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