Expert recommendations for 2.0 ecoboost

My 2.3 doesn't 'make oil' either, plenty of them do, but not mine.
Mine doesn’t either. I’m on a 5k OCI schedule with good full syns anyway.

Ford is not on the right path letting clueless owners run to the OLM on a syn blend. It will get out of warranty but….

The UOAs I have seen on an EcoBoost on syn blend the oil is beat to snot, barely in 20 grade if that. 😱
 
That oil is popular for good reason, but it is neither API SP or Ford 961-A1 both of which the OP’s manual specifies.
I agree
Plus, the higher Calcium / lowered Magnesium numbers of Euro-L 5w30 contributes more carbon.
Those SN Euro oils are far-from Carbon Neutral. Even SN Plus ILSAC / GF5 was short-lived.
SP at least points us back on the right track and away from derailment. Dexos 1 Gen 3 even more-so.

Worried highly about dilution?...... thicker SPs are out there. One doesn't have to settle for 10cst@100.
My Amsoil 0w30 Euro is SP and travels in the 12.3cst@100 lane. Walmart has the Quaker 5w40 Euro SP and also Mobil-1 Euro 0w40 SP. My most recent purchase from Auto Zone on sale (Castrol Edge Syn 5w40) is SP too.

If any of those 5w40s come-in over 13cst@100, I'll blend-in a quart of Castrol Edge EP 0W20. One can do the same using Quaker State Syn 0w20 with their Euro 5w40. That'll drop the cst back inside the 12s.

My goal is low 12s with the Castrol Edge sale oils I just recently bought.

These higher csts are all good dilution fighters and more eco-friendly than Euro-L by Pennzoil..
 
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Two major things to be concerned with regarding GTDI engines in general, and one in regard to the 4cylinder EB engines in particular.

First, pretty much all GTDI engines will perhaps have potential issues with:
- fuel dilution... No engine oil can stop this, and really can't even mask the effects to any large degree. Once dilution affects wear rates, there's nothing an oil can do to stop it; not really even dissuade it. Generally I think oil selection in regard to dilution is grossly over-blown. We've seen plenty of data that shows low and moderate dilution doesn't seem to affect wear rates. And when dilution gets bad enough to affect wear, the oil can't knock the dilution off its evil path. So to a large degree, oil selection in regard to dilution is moot. People often look at a UOA and stare at the fuel %, and then make a decision; that's not the right method to make a judgement. Rather, people should look at the wear rates; if they go unaffected, the fuel % is moot. If the wear rates are affected, then it's become a problem. It is literally that simple. The oil you choose isn't going to greatly affect this one way or another.

- intake valve fouling,,, Here, a high quality oil with a very low NOACK score (or pragmatic equivalent) will help reduce vapors leaving the crankcase which are bound for reintroduction to the intake tract. I do believe that using a high-quality oil in this regard may have some positive residual effects (pardon the pun). This is one area where oil selection can make a significant difference. There are a few products which have very good NOACK scores; some of the Mobil1 and Pennzoil products for example (some, but not all). But, I believe that the brand of oil most likely to reduce this concern to a very low level of risk is HPL; their lubes are nearly off the chart (in a desirable way) in controlling evaporative vapors because of the base stocks, additive selection, etc. I have decided to run HPL lubes in my two GDI engines because of this concern. Some OEMs have gone to a dual-fuel-injection scheme; this helps. But again, that's a mechanical solution to the problem, not an oil related one.



- 4cyl EB engines themselves... They have a design where the cylinders were not fully siamesed and the head gasket surface area between cylinders is VERY thin; so much so that this has caused problems with eventual gasket seal failures in many engines. Ford did improve the design a few years back, slightly, by altering the design to provide coolant cross-flow via a drilled path rather than a sliced cut. But, NO ENGINE OIL is going to solve this problem, so it's a moot point in regard to your question.


That's my non-expert take, anyway.
I also had some questions at least partially answered by @Tom NJ on the IVD topic, that an oil that contains esters “may” keep the valves cleaner, because not only does any oil coming past the guides carry esters onto the valves, so will the PCV circuit.

Of course, that’s just an educated guess; but if I ever get a bug up my rear to pull my 3.5EB intake, we’ll see how it is doing… but mine is dual-injected. Other than 1 dealer-induced OCI on Motorcraft and about 2k miles on Pennz Euro 0w40, my truck has had ester-containing oils since 24k miles (now at 79.5k).

Honestly on the EBs, I think probably the most telling area of how well the oil protects will be to examine the turbo passages and bushings for particulate accumulation and wear. Other than the phasers and timing chain guides, this area was the #1 reason I switched to HPL, specifically the No VII. Is it necessary? Absolutely not. But it will certainly never be a concern for protection, and allows me to run 15k OCIs without worry.
 
That’s interesting. The TDS for PUP 5W-30 does not list the Dexos 1 certification nor does it list the newest Ford specification. I emailed Pennzoil and asked if PUP met the newest Ford spec for 5W-30 and they said yes, they just haven’t “updated” the TDS. That was well over a year ago. I used to be head over heels for PUP before I joined this forum, now my thoughts have shifted and I have learned a lot about oil. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with PUP at all, but I don’t see what makes it so special either. Meets the same specs as every other API SP GF6 5W-30 oil on the shelf at Walmart or the parts store. Pennzoil doesn’t really make any claims to it being superior to regular PP other than it being “race trusted” whatever that means. Not worth the price difference over PP imo.

The 5w-30 ULTRA is listed for O.E.M. Specification of DEXOS 1 .

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Here's the ULTRA Specifications for FORD ( pics below ) . The list was cut off at G.M.. Scroll down and CLICK on SPECFICATIONS . Hope this helps .


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Go here for the PLATINUM application for FORD . Scroll down and CLICK on SPECIFICATIONS .

 
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Extreme cold was not initially mentioned, but I would agree that if extreme cold (well below zero F on a routine basis) is a concern, then you'll want to concentrate on a fairly "thin" lube with few if any VIIs; HPL does have a product for that as well. Not that HPL is the only answer, but it's good to be one of the first considered.
I checked the site out. Looks like
I'd choose a 5W-30 full synthetic and change on the 5000 mile mark, 10k, 15K, 20K, you get the idea. However, I would, at least in winter, not pick an oil formulated with an AN base stock. As AN's make truly great lubricants, but don't flow quite as well as, for example a PAO based oil, in extreme cold conditions, which Michigan can sometimes have. No problem at 10 or15ºF, but well below zero, AN's don't flow like conventional synthetics.

One fairly reliable way to know is to look at the pour point of the oil. If the pour point is -33ºF, it is likely an AN based synthetic.

By way of comparison, the pour point of M1 5W-30 EP is -33ºF, while HPL's 5W-30 (no viscosity index oil) is -76ºF
The M1 is a spectacular oil and I use it regularly in FL in my EB engine and supercharged Jag. I would not choose it in Alaska.

NOTE: There are some here on this forum who will correctly note that pour point is meaningless with regard to an oil's performance in general use. However, in my travels, I've found that some oils really don't work well in extreme cold. Michigan can occasionally get extremely cold weather.

I'd choose a 5W-30 full synthetic and change on the 5000 mile mark, 10k, 15K, 20K, you get the idea. However, I would, at least in winter, not pick an oil formulated with an AN base stock. As AN's make truly great lubricants, but don't flow quite as well as, for example a PAO based oil, in extreme cold conditions, which Michigan can sometimes have. No problem at 10 or15ºF, but well below zero, AN's don't flow like conventional synthetics.

One fairly reliable way to know is to look at the pour point of the oil. If the pour point is -33ºF, it is likely an AN based synthetic.

By way of comparison, the pour point of M1 5W-30 EP is -33ºF, while HPL's 5W-30 (no viscosity index oil) is -76ºF
The M1 is a spectacular oil and I use it regularly in FL in my EB engine and supercharged Jag. I would not choose it in Alaska.

NOTE: There are some here on this forum who will correctly note that pour point is meaningless with regard to an oil's performance in general use. However, in my travels, I've found that some oils really don't work well in extreme cold. Michigan can occasionally get extremely cold weather.
Thankyou, for the help. I weighed everything you said and all the other experts. I finally did it, I put Mobil 1 5w30 esp in with a Fram endurance filter. it easy to find and seems to be very highly regarded here and everywhere else. It's now rated SP so it should be perfect if not overkill for the edge and its not priced bad either. I will still do short oci too since the ecoboosts are hard on oil. The pour point is pretty good too. better than the -32 on the Valvoline restore & Protect that I returned. I'll let others be the guinea pig on the new Valvoline. Some people did not like my multiple posts so thanks for the patience to those that responded and shared their knowledge.
 
I would toss some oil catch cans on this too ...the Pvc system is the weak link of the 2.0 Ecoboost plus they are prone to cracking heads
 
Did you pick an oil yet? I suggest taking a rubber dart to Walmart and picking an oil by throwing the dart with your eyes closed.
 
One inline with the pcv valve and the other on the breather from the head to intake hose
Even on Focus RS I service, the catch can on the upper breather never catches anything. If you must install a catch can on a 2.0/2.3 EcoBoost, only install one on the PCV side. But personally I wouldn’t bother with one at all
 
Went from 96 miles a day round trip for work all highway to 15 miles one way now on my 2.0L EB maverick. Was doing 7.5K intervals with full synthetic now dropping down to 5K. Took one sample on a 7.5K interval and black stone said the fuel % was a lil high but I was 1200 miles over thier average they had on my motor and not to worry because the other wear metals looked good. 32K trouble free miles. Also oil change is supposed to be 5.5Q but I only do 5 and it does rise over the oil interval.
 
Found these at the PENNZOIL site . The ULTRA looks to be CERTIFIED Dexos 1 the same as the PLATINUM . Just not on the bottles like that of the PLATINUM . The U.O.A.s below that I discovered are ULTRA so they should help the debate for using it for D.I. due to L.S.P.I , catalytic converter damage and being a benefit to fuel dilution .

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2016 PRIUS w/ E.F.I. (?)

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U.O.A. below is from this site , https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-ultra-platinum-5w20-2014-mazda-6-8k-miles.358908/ . It's Direct Injection .

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I wonder why it doesn’t show up on the dexos licensing website?
 
Just digging up an old post here.
Just days ago I took delivery of a brand new 2024 Lincoln Corsair.
This vehicle has the 2 l EcoBoost. I'm just looking for some oil recommendations.

Is there any reason why I should run a 0W30 as opposed to 5W30? I will likely go with a full synthetic. Castrol Edge or Mobil1.
Being a brand new vehicle Is there any reason I would want to change the oil early like 1,000 miles for the first oil change?
I work on a massive construction site right now. Parking is chaos. To get a decent parking spot you have to be there plenty early. Traffic is chaos leaving. Right now early morning before start of shift and leaving the vehicle has extensive idle time.
Should I worry about fuel dilution? I probably would not exceed 5,000 mi between oil changes based on current conditions.
Ford seems to like Castrol oil and their products.
 
Just digging up an old post here.
Just days ago I took delivery of a brand new 2024 Lincoln Corsair.
This vehicle has the 2 l EcoBoost. I'm just looking for some oil recommendations.

Is there any reason why I should run a 0W30 as opposed to 5W30? I will likely go with a full synthetic. Castrol Edge or Mobil1.
Being a brand new vehicle Is there any reason I would want to change the oil early like 1,000 miles for the first oil change?
I work on a massive construction site right now. Parking is chaos. To get a decent parking spot you have to be there plenty early. Traffic is chaos leaving. Right now early morning before start of shift and leaving the vehicle has extensive idle time.
Should I worry about fuel dilution? I probably would not exceed 5,000 mi between oil changes based on current conditions.
Ford seems to like Castrol oil and their products.
You should start a new thread with these multiple new questions. Although I will say that the subject of a 0W vs. 5W winter rating has been pretty well beaten to death in numerous ways.

That and the early oil change.
 
Just digging up an old post here.
Just days ago I took delivery of a brand new 2024 Lincoln Corsair.
This vehicle has the 2 l EcoBoost. I'm just looking for some oil recommendations.

Is there any reason why I should run a 0W30 as opposed to 5W30? I will likely go with a full synthetic. Castrol Edge or Mobil1.
Being a brand new vehicle Is there any reason I would want to change the oil early like 1,000 miles for the first oil change?
I work on a massive construction site right now. Parking is chaos. To get a decent parking spot you have to be there plenty early. Traffic is chaos leaving. Right now early morning before start of shift and leaving the vehicle has extensive idle time.
Should I worry about fuel dilution? I probably would not exceed 5,000 mi between oil changes based on current conditions.
Ford seems to like Castrol oil and their products.

Definitely a full syn. There is no advantage to an 0w30 over 5w30 unless you live where it is truly cold. Idle time counts for a lot, if you have a lot of idle time 5k OCIs are probably too long. I’d try 3k with a quality full syn and UOA.

Congratulations on the new Lincoln. 😎
 
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