Excited About Wife's New 4Runner

JTK

Messages
13,287
Location
Buffalo, NY
I don’t doubt what you say about the practicality of a minivan for people hauling.

But one of the main reasons we went 4Runner was the traditional design - BOF construction with RWD and longitudinal-mount engine...

You did good either way John. Even if you decide you don't want/need the 4Runner some years down the road, it will still be worth a ton. Some of the driveline components should be easier to service given the BOF design. I know I dread changing the T-case oil on my 2019 Pathfinder. It's a royal pain laying on your back, scraping your arms all up giving it a reach-around w/ 2ft worth of socket extensions cobbled together.
 
Messages
5,618
Location
the canyons
You did good either way John. Even if you decide you don't want/need the 4Runner some years down the road, it will still be worth a ton. Some of the driveline components should be easier to service given the BOF design. I know I dread changing the T-case oil on my 2019 Pathfinder. It's a royal pain laying on your back, scraping your arms all up giving it a reach-around w/ 2ft worth of socket extensions cobbled together.

The 4Runner T-case is very easy to service, even laying on the ground. But it's irrelevant as the OP is buying a 2wd.
 

john_pifer

Thread starter
Messages
3,580
Location
Nashville, TN via Memphis
CF8DCCE0-C7CB-4A91-A149-30A386B57F74.jpeg
94F368A0-7AEB-4275-8248-A461D368AD78.jpeg
C9050BB1-6A5F-48AC-A0E9-0D7DD87661EE.jpeg
BE0387D0-5DBC-4E43-8754-7B0DFAE0BBA4.jpeg
 

john_pifer

Thread starter
Messages
3,580
Location
Nashville, TN via Memphis
I took it out of Overdrive a few times on the drive back, and tried to vary my speeds as much as I could. Total of over 2 hrs. Also did some engine braking. Makes it easy to do with the ”Sport-Shift” feature.
 
Messages
638
If I was to replace my 2005 Silverado with something newer, the 4 runner is one of the top contenders. I love the look of them with a bit of lift and nicer wheels, lots of good aftermarket parts for them. Unfortunately every time I look at prices I can't imagine upgrading.

I just saw an 04 Silverado with 350k original miles for $7000 Canadian. Everything is way overpriced, from parts trucks to brand new.
 

Astro14

$100 Site Donor
Staff member
Messages
12,546
Location
Virginia Beach
Very nice looking truck, John! I'm certain it will serve you well.

You spotted the same bit of verbiage/dissembling in the owner's manual that I did about higher viscosity. I run PUP 5W30 and call it a day. There hasn't been any adverse impact on MPG, and I am happy.

Cheers,
Astro
 
Messages
1,931
Location
South Central PA (Fulton Co)
We had a new 2016 2WD SR5 , traded it for a new 2020 Limited Nightshade. FYI : Do get the correct oil filter tool and use the anti-seize each oil change.

Yup. The Motivx one is VERY well made. Our Camry takes the same filter/housing and can be a bear sometimes, even with lubing the o-ring. This is the one.

 

Astro14

$100 Site Donor
Staff member
Messages
12,546
Location
Virginia Beach
I have that MotivX tool.

I also replaced my original composite plastic oil filter housing with an aluminum one from a Highlander, or something. OEM Toyota part, made from aluminum.

Just felt better about the durability of aluminum after seeing how incredibly tight the dealer “technicians” installed the oil filter housing. Took a breaker bar, yes a breaker bar, to get my filter housing off after the dealer serviced the truck.

25 ft lbs was the spec. I reckon they were up around 100. Housing held up, but I felt better about a new housing. I had to swap over the center tube in the housing, as the Tundra has a longer filter, but it was an easy job.

 
Messages
737
Location
Connecticut
I use the MotivX tool for the Avalon oil changes. Well made and useful.

I have tried anti-seize vs a light coating of oil on the threads and O-ring. Can’t tell a difference between the two. The housing is really tight after 5,000 miles.
 
Messages
3,047
Location
Cincinnati
I have that MotivX tool.

I also replaced my original composite plastic oil filter housing with an aluminum one from a Highlander, or something. OEM Toyota part, made from aluminum.

Just felt better about the durability of aluminum after seeing how incredibly tight the dealer “technicians” installed the oil filter housing. Took a breaker bar, yes a breaker bar, to get my filter housing off after the dealer serviced the truck.

25 ft lbs was the spec. I reckon they were up around 100. Housing held up, but I felt better about a new housing. I had to swap over the center tube in the housing, as the Tundra has a longer filter, but it was an easy job.


I was SO happy I bought the proper filter housing removal tool. Can't do this job without it.
And DARN mine was tight! Good thing I'm the only one doing this job moving forward. It's actually an easy job provided you do it correctly.
 
Messages
5,618
Location
the canyons
I was SO happy I bought the proper filter housing removal tool. Can't do this job without it.
And DARN mine was tight! Good thing I'm the only one doing this job moving forward. It's actually an easy job provided you do it correctly.
Yep, the reinforced plastic cap is fine, if some ham-fisted hack hasn't grossly overtightened it. Put the O-ring in the right spot, lube it and the threads with oil, and it will tighten to it's 18 ft-lb spec, and come off easily with an appropriate tool.
 

john_pifer

Thread starter
Messages
3,580
Location
Nashville, TN via Memphis
Very nice looking truck, John! I'm certain it will serve you well.

You spotted the same bit of verbiage/dissembling in the owner's manual that I did about higher viscosity. I run PUP 5W30 and call it a day. There hasn't been any adverse impact on MPG, and I am happy.

Cheers,
Astro
What OCI are you running the PUP?
 

john_pifer

Thread starter
Messages
3,580
Location
Nashville, TN via Memphis
I ordered the MotivX socket. Thanks to all who recommended it!

Its first OCI will be M1-AP 5W-30 that I got during the AZ clearance @ $2/qt last year.

I‘m trying to decide how long to leave the FF in. Any opinions?

I left the Tacoma FF in until 3000 miles, but that was also 5W-30, whereas this is 0W-20. Not too concerning considering the cool ambient temps we‘re having.

Regardless of when I drain the FF, I’ll do the first OC @ 10K and then every 10K thereafter. And just rotate the tires every OCI. Makes it easy to remember.

Might try the Edge EP at some point. Going 10K on an OCI, I do feel better about oils that specifically allow long drain.

There’s also an Amsoil 10W-30 that is interesting because it has almost zero VM added. I saw it in Gokhan’s spreadsheet.
 
Top