Engine noise any indication of oil quality?

Tenza Motorsports has a series of videos about RP. He started out using the API version of RP and then he took the valve cover off after 500 miles on RP and was surprised to see how much it cleaned in only 500 miles. He then started using the HPS line and eventually worked up to their XPR line. Right now I am using RP 0w20 XPR in my 2021 Lexus ES300h. The only XPR oil you cant use in a street car is their 0w8 oil because I believe it doesnt have a lot of cleaning agents.
I'm a bit put-off by what they did with the preview pics there vs the actual results, which do indeed show some cleaning, but nothing like what the video preview would lead you to believe.

The HPS oil line is of course not API approved either (which is to be expected) and the additive package appears to look a lot like a Euro A3/B4 one, based on the VOA posted earlier. "Synerlec" is a sulphated ester, but I'm not sure if that lends itself to any inherent cleaning properties.

Additive packages aren't formulated to clean, you need something with high solvency and/or polarity like an AN or ester to provide that capability, which is typically part of the base oil blend, but isn't used in most API oils because then you can't use a pre-approved additive package to yield an approved product. This is why RP's street oils look like Valvoline on paper.
 
Would this be along the lines of Overkill running M1 EP (I believe) and then running hpl and it cleaning out all the gunk M1 didn’t clean?
In my defence, I don't have a monetized Youtube channel and I'm not sponsored by HPL ;) Ergo, like @wwillson, I don't benefit financially from sharing my experiences on this forum, which runs quite contrary to most linked Youtube content where claims are made to support an obvious relationship between the product's manufacturer and the person promoting it.
 
Those pics that constitute the preview are grossly misleading, here are some snaps from the actual video:
View attachment 153969
View attachment 153970

Yes, there's some lightening on the intake camshaft bearing caps, but the difference is nothing like the video's preview.

Also, important to note that he's using their XPR racing oil, which says nothing about suitable for street use on their website:


The XPR 5W-40 appears to be 10-22% PAO:
View attachment 153971

With a mix of other lower group bases.

It's possible that this product line has some AN's or esters in it that could do some cleaning, however that does not mean that the other product lines do. Mobil 1 0W-40 is advertised as being able to clean, but that doesn't mean other Mobil grades do.
The lightening of some of the yellow-ish staining on the bearing caps could also just be the fact that the purple dye in RP is cancelling out the yellow tint of the old oil. The way colors react to each other gets real interesting when they are translucent like oil is. If that were the case, the RP didn't clean anything. It was just masking the staining by layering over it. The cosmetics industry uses this trick in some toothpastes and skin-care products. They purposely dye their products purple to cover up yellow colors when applied. Turns the layered areas nearly transparent.
 
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I recently (500miles ago) changed the oil in my commuter car 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 with 75,000 miles on it. I was using some Castrol Edge High mileage 5w30 and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. Nothing good, nothing bad but did get Slightly higher fuel mileage than with a the previous change. This fill I used Quaker State FS 10w30 for the summer months. The car starts quiet and runs great but when hot, like at a stop light in gear, the engine is noticeably loader. No bad sounds just normal engine sounds amplified. Is this any indication that this engine doesn’t care for this oil or is sound totally inadmissible in the function of the oil?
I do this every time I change my oil. "What is that? Never heard that before?"
It's just your brain playing tricks on you.
 
I recently (500miles ago) changed the oil in my commuter car 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 with 75,000 miles on it. I was using some Castrol Edge High mileage 5w30 and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. Nothing good, nothing bad but did get Slightly higher fuel mileage than with a the previous change. This fill I used Quaker State FS 10w30 for the summer months. The car starts quiet and runs great but when hot, like at a stop light in gear, the engine is noticeably loader. No bad sounds just normal engine sounds amplified. Is this any indication that this engine doesn’t care for this oil or is sound totally inadmissible in the function of the oil?
Simple, ain't it? Go back to the quieter oil. I think noise is a combination of differing viscosities and additives from one oil to another oil. Ymmv
 
The question wasn’t really directed at you. I couldn’t quote all the ones you did in your other post on my phone. But ty
Foruming on a smartphone sucks, I feel for you. That's why I don't do it... ;)
 
In my defence, I don't have a monetized Youtube channel and I'm not sponsored by HPL ;) Ergo, like @wwillson, I don't benefit financially from sharing my experiences on this forum, which runs quite contrary to most linked Youtube content where claims are made to support an obvious relationship between the product's manufacturer and the person promoting it.
Nah man, he got Royal Purple for his Euro car because it's *that good*. Most US BMW owners go to Castrol, Liqui Moly, Ravenol, a few to Mobil 1, some to Motul, and some even buy Red Line Oil. But Royal Purple? Not a chance, unless there's something to be gained.
 
There have been videos posted here on this forum of a 5.7 hemi and the change in engine noise with 2 different oils. I believe amsoil was the noisy-er running hemi, and Redline was the quieter one. I can try and find them back, I actually found this forum through that search result.

I have also experienced less "clacking" by running different oil. Factory oil was noticably more clacky than the HPL I'm running now.

I doubt a sound pressure meter would notice the difference, because it measures amplitude/volume, not a change in a specific frequency. The total engine noise overpowers the clacky frequency so a meter will never pick up that change.

I don't know what the oil is quieting, lifters, valves, who knows, but it definitely makes a difference in my engine.
 
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The lightening of some of the yellow-ish staining on the bearing caps could also just be the fact that the purple dye in RP is cancelling out the yellow tint of the old oil. The way colors react to each other gets real interesting when they are translucent like oil is. If that were the case, the RP didn't clean anything. It was just masking the staining by layering over it. The cosmetics industry uses this trick in some toothpastes and skin-care products. They purposely dye their products purple to cover up yellow colors when applied. Turns the layered areas nearly transparent.
Yes color representation and rendition is even harder than sound pressure and frequency measurement.
 
I don't know what the oil is quieting
Absolutely nothing.

The HEMI Tick Mandela effect and Red Line Cure placebo are very real, and very laughable.

Here are the videos you're thinking of 👇:





This guy illustrates the Red Line Oil "HEMI Honey" placebo effect perfectly👇:





 
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Absolutely nothing.

The HEMI Tick Mandela effect and Red Line Cure placebo are very real, and very laughable.

Given my own experience with HPL and factory oil I'm going to disagree. I'm an audiophile and have a very good ear, I know all about confirmation bias and what people are capable of convincing themselves of; cable lifters and $800 power cords are not my thing but rampant in those circles so again I'm well aware of this effect.

However the difference in sound is very real in my case, I did not change the oil expecting to hear a difference - the sound changed was something I very surprisingly heard but was not even looking for. It's unfortunate that you can find stories of guys getting hung up on RL, that doesn't invalidate other cases where guys aren't as zealous but still noticing differences.
 
Yes color representation and rendition is even harder than sound pressure and frequency measurement.
And for those who don't know, SPL is extremely difficult to measure. I work in a calibration lab and the only way we have found to accurately calibrate sound level meters is to stick the entire calibration set up into a plexiglass vacuum pressurized box and view results with a data logger in an adjacent room. Doing a numerical comparison of dB without whatever you are measuring isolated is inaccurate in my experience.

Lux meters and spectrophotometers are equally difficult. You can send them to 10 different A2LA certified calibration labs and get 10 different results.
 
My car ran well on Valvoline Advanced 5W20 when I was breaking it in - other than fuel dilution problems.

Any reason YOU went with 10w30? is your 2.0 Direct injection ?
Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.
 
Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.
Try Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or 5W-40 API SP. The additive package will deal much better with the soot and fuel dilution. These low ash ILSAC oils that you're running are intended to work well in perfect situations. Obviously, your engine has some problems.
 
Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.
I don't understand that. Fuel dilution is agnostic to the winter rating, it is nothing but simple dilution. Any 30-grade is going to dilute out of that grade with enough fuel, you would have to step up the grade to combat dilution.
 
sometimes we hear that tick and we think it's something metal related or oil related. but people also haven't thought of sometimes it's fuel related to make those noise also whether it be from poor quality fuel, ethanol content, etc.
 
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