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No.Would this be along the lines of Overkill running M1 EP (I believe) and then running hpl and it cleaning out all the gunk M1 didn’t clean?
No.Would this be along the lines of Overkill running M1 EP (I believe) and then running hpl and it cleaning out all the gunk M1 didn’t clean?
I'm a bit put-off by what they did with the preview pics there vs the actual results, which do indeed show some cleaning, but nothing like what the video preview would lead you to believe.Tenza Motorsports has a series of videos about RP. He started out using the API version of RP and then he took the valve cover off after 500 miles on RP and was surprised to see how much it cleaned in only 500 miles. He then started using the HPS line and eventually worked up to their XPR line. Right now I am using RP 0w20 XPR in my 2021 Lexus ES300h. The only XPR oil you cant use in a street car is their 0w8 oil because I believe it doesnt have a lot of cleaning agents.
In my defence, I don't have a monetized Youtube channel and I'm not sponsored by HPL Ergo, like @wwillson, I don't benefit financially from sharing my experiences on this forum, which runs quite contrary to most linked Youtube content where claims are made to support an obvious relationship between the product's manufacturer and the person promoting it.Would this be along the lines of Overkill running M1 EP (I believe) and then running hpl and it cleaning out all the gunk M1 didn’t clean?
The lightening of some of the yellow-ish staining on the bearing caps could also just be the fact that the purple dye in RP is cancelling out the yellow tint of the old oil. The way colors react to each other gets real interesting when they are translucent like oil is. If that were the case, the RP didn't clean anything. It was just masking the staining by layering over it. The cosmetics industry uses this trick in some toothpastes and skin-care products. They purposely dye their products purple to cover up yellow colors when applied. Turns the layered areas nearly transparent.Those pics that constitute the preview are grossly misleading, here are some snaps from the actual video:
View attachment 153969
View attachment 153970
Yes, there's some lightening on the intake camshaft bearing caps, but the difference is nothing like the video's preview.
Also, important to note that he's using their XPR racing oil, which says nothing about suitable for street use on their website:
The XPR 5W-40 appears to be 10-22% PAO:
View attachment 153971
With a mix of other lower group bases.
It's possible that this product line has some AN's or esters in it that could do some cleaning, however that does not mean that the other product lines do. Mobil 1 0W-40 is advertised as being able to clean, but that doesn't mean other Mobil grades do.
I do this every time I change my oil. "What is that? Never heard that before?"I recently (500miles ago) changed the oil in my commuter car 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 with 75,000 miles on it. I was using some Castrol Edge High mileage 5w30 and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. Nothing good, nothing bad but did get Slightly higher fuel mileage than with a the previous change. This fill I used Quaker State FS 10w30 for the summer months. The car starts quiet and runs great but when hot, like at a stop light in gear, the engine is noticeably loader. No bad sounds just normal engine sounds amplified. Is this any indication that this engine doesn’t care for this oil or is sound totally inadmissible in the function of the oil?
Simple, ain't it? Go back to the quieter oil. I think noise is a combination of differing viscosities and additives from one oil to another oil. YmmvI recently (500miles ago) changed the oil in my commuter car 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 with 75,000 miles on it. I was using some Castrol Edge High mileage 5w30 and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. Nothing good, nothing bad but did get Slightly higher fuel mileage than with a the previous change. This fill I used Quaker State FS 10w30 for the summer months. The car starts quiet and runs great but when hot, like at a stop light in gear, the engine is noticeably loader. No bad sounds just normal engine sounds amplified. Is this any indication that this engine doesn’t care for this oil or is sound totally inadmissible in the function of the oil?
Foruming on a smartphone sucks, I feel for you. That's why I don't do it...The question wasn’t really directed at you. I couldn’t quote all the ones you did in your other post on my phone. But ty
Nah man, he got Royal Purple for his Euro car because it's *that good*. Most US BMW owners go to Castrol, Liqui Moly, Ravenol, a few to Mobil 1, some to Motul, and some even buy Red Line Oil. But Royal Purple? Not a chance, unless there's something to be gained.In my defence, I don't have a monetized Youtube channel and I'm not sponsored by HPL Ergo, like @wwillson, I don't benefit financially from sharing my experiences on this forum, which runs quite contrary to most linked Youtube content where claims are made to support an obvious relationship between the product's manufacturer and the person promoting it.
Yes color representation and rendition is even harder than sound pressure and frequency measurement.The lightening of some of the yellow-ish staining on the bearing caps could also just be the fact that the purple dye in RP is cancelling out the yellow tint of the old oil. The way colors react to each other gets real interesting when they are translucent like oil is. If that were the case, the RP didn't clean anything. It was just masking the staining by layering over it. The cosmetics industry uses this trick in some toothpastes and skin-care products. They purposely dye their products purple to cover up yellow colors when applied. Turns the layered areas nearly transparent.
Absolutely nothing.I don't know what the oil is quieting
Absolutely nothing.
The HEMI Tick Mandela effect and Red Line Cure placebo are very real, and very laughable.
And for those who don't know, SPL is extremely difficult to measure. I work in a calibration lab and the only way we have found to accurately calibrate sound level meters is to stick the entire calibration set up into a plexiglass vacuum pressurized box and view results with a data logger in an adjacent room. Doing a numerical comparison of dB without whatever you are measuring isolated is inaccurate in my experience.Yes color representation and rendition is even harder than sound pressure and frequency measurement.
I was talking about Red Line and the HEMI tick, per the videos you referenced.Given my own experience with HPL and factory oil I'm going to disagree.
Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.My car ran well on Valvoline Advanced 5W20 when I was breaking it in - other than fuel dilution problems.
Any reason YOU went with 10w30? is your 2.0 Direct injection ?
Try Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or 5W-40 API SP. The additive package will deal much better with the soot and fuel dilution. These low ash ILSAC oils that you're running are intended to work well in perfect situations. Obviously, your engine has some problems.Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.
I don't understand that. Fuel dilution is agnostic to the winter rating, it is nothing but simple dilution. Any 30-grade is going to dilute out of that grade with enough fuel, you would have to step up the grade to combat dilution.Yes it’s a TGDI. I haven’t had a 5w30 sample come back in the 30w range ever. I was trying to see if a 10w30 would.