Awaiting new Hyundai Theta II Engine Install

[donnyj08]

I wonder if even a 5K mile OCI is too long for these Hyundai / Kia Theta II engines ? Valvoline wants 4K miles to maximize a fill of VRP for cleaning , so that would be my OCI in these engines .

I would say yes. With the dilution they have 3k miles is sadly probably ideal.

 

[MParr]

I would say yes. With the dilution they have 3k miles is sadly probably ideal.

The manual states 3,750 for severe service and 7,500 for normal service. 5,000 puts you right in the middle.

 

[goblin]

The manual states 3,750 for severe service and 7,500 for normal service. 5,000 puts you right in the middle.

The thing is - driving in any major city is severe service.
Suburbia dream might differ, but city is severe service no matter what.

 

[Prison_Mike]

I wonder if even a 5K mile OCI is too long for these Hyundai / Kia Theta II engines ? Valvoline wants 4K miles to maximize a fill of VRP for cleaning , so that would be my OCI in these engines .

Doubtful. In the end it mainly came down to them not fully flushing the engine out once it was machined leaving bits of metal that clogged the crank bearing journals. No oil will fix a situation where it can't reach to begin with. I wish when it happened to mine I'd asked what exactly caused it to fail. It wouldn't even crank a millimeter, so the main bearings were definitely shot. Just wondered if they took the time to take it apart or just sent it back to be scrapped.

 

[ChrisD46]

Hi all,

First post here on the forum. I have a 9 year-old Hyundai Sonata (2017) that I purchased new. It only has 50k miles at time of this post. While I changed oil every 5k miles, I never had to research all of the gremlins this engine is known-for. It’s been a solid car for most of our time with it, and it saw nothing but short trips and not even work commutes. Given the low mileage, I’m assuming we just got lucky for nearly a decade and were due for the inevitable. Thank goodness it’s still under warranty.

For the first time ever last week, the car went into limp-mode. I confirmed it threw the 1386 code (crank sensor). Car is now at the dealer, and so-far the service department is signaling that a new motor is likely.

If it pans-out that way, I’d appreciate recommended break-in oil types/viscocity/schedules specific to this type of engine (modern, poorly-assembled GDI) and circumstance (might only getting a new long-block). If you’re experienced with this engine and any successful mitigation strategy, I’d appreciate your take. We need this car to last as long as possible.

As an aside, I’m a fan of Super Tech synthetic oils and wonder if anyone could weigh-in on the utility of using their conventional variant before migrating to FS (for break-in). If I’m simplifying the matter, or if this has been covered at-length, please forgive my ignorance. I’d like input and perspective as current as possible. Thanks in advance.

Quick Question : Did you use 5W20 as stated on the oil cap for your 5K mile oil changes or 5W30 (also allowed per the Hyundai / Kia 2017 owners manual) ?

 

[ChrisD46]

The Hyundai / Kia Theta II loose internal debris issue during manufacturing was to be resolved with the Theta II after 2015 . I believe the Theta II 2016 - 2018 suffers from soft metal rod bearings as well .

 

[Prison_Mike]

Quick Question : Did you use 5W20 as stated on the oil cap for your 5K mile oil changes or 5W30 (also allowed per the Hyundai / Kia 2017 owners manual) ?

Not who you replied to, but I've used 0w20 since I bought the car 3 years ago. I got a good deal on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum through Amazon a while back, so that's going in my Kia and the wife's Odyssey. When those run out I think I'm just going to run Mobil1 ESP 0w30 from here on out in mine at least. Wife's is timing belt driven and NA port injected. It'll run on anything really.

 

[snail415]

Quick Question : Did you use 5W20 as stated on the oil cap for your 5K mile oil changes or 5W30 (also allowed per the Hyundai / Kia 2017 owners manual) ?

I used 5w-20 up until these issues occurred (so from 2017-present), and went up-to 5w-30 after receiving the car back from the dealership. I intend to stay at that grade unless there are other recommendations for colder times of the year.

 

[Brigadier]

My 2017 SantaFe SE 3.3L Lambda 2 has 123k on it. Never burned a drop of oil. I bought it with 28k on the clock and have been using QS UD or PP 5W30 with Hy-Per Lube Zinc Replacement Additive[pure ester] due to flat tappet camshafts, and Hyundai or Wix filters every 4k since. I also use 92 octane top tier gas and every third fill up or so is 92 octane ethanol free fuel from Cenex. It's amazing how that ethanol free fuel wakes that engine up. I also add Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant every other fill up.

Due to the Hy-Per Lube ZRA being discontinued and impossible to find, I switched to RedLine 5W30 and plan on sticking with that. So far, so good.

My commute is 22 miles each way, 60% freeway speeds, so no fuel dilution to speak of. The only issue I have ever had was the oil pressure sender quit tripping the oil pressure light and had to be replaced. They bury that thing under the intake manifold, so while that was off, I had the plugs replaced. That was at 92k miles. Tickled pink that my engine warranty was extended by Hyundai to 15/150k just in case.

IMO, regular Gp III oils are no match for some of these GDI engines. They need help like the aforementioned ZRA, or a real synthetic PAO/Ester based oil.

 

[tired]

My 2017 SantaFe SE 3.3L Lambda 2 has 123k on it. Never burned a drop of oil. I bought it with 28k on the clock and have been using QS UD or PP 5W30 with Hy-Per Lube Zinc Replacement Additive[pure ester] due to flat tappet camshafts, and Hyundai or Wix filters every 4k since. I also use 92 octane top tier gas and every third fill up or so is 92 octane ethanol free fuel from Cenex. It's amazing how that ethanol free fuel wakes that engine up. I also add Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant every other fill up.

Due to the Hy-Per Lube ZRA being discontinued and impossible to find, I switched to RedLine 5W30 and plan on sticking with that. So far, so good.

My commute is 22 miles each way, 60% freeway speeds, so no fuel dilution to speak of. The only issue I have ever had was the oil pressure sender quit tripping the oil pressure light and had to be replaced. They bury that thing under the intake manifold, so while that was off, I had the plugs replaced. That was at 92k miles. Tickled pink that my engine warranty was extended by Hyundai to 15/150k just in case.

IMO, regular Gp III oils are no match for some of these GDI engines. They need help like the aforementioned ZRA, or a real synthetic PAO/Ester based oil.

Good data point. Thanks.

Are you going to continue 4k OCIs with the Red Line?

 

[Mainia]

The thing is - driving in any major city is severe service.
Suburbia dream might differ, but city is severe service no matter what.

Driving a new Hyundai Kia off the lot, instantly makes your car into a "Rough Service" protocol car/suv/truck.

 

[Mainia]

My 2017 SantaFe SE 3.3L Lambda 2 has 123k on it. Never burned a drop of oil. I bought it with 28k on the clock and have been using QS UD or PP 5W30 with Hy-Per Lube Zinc Replacement Additive[pure ester] due to flat tappet camshafts, and Hyundai or Wix filters every 4k since. I also use 92 octane top tier gas and every third fill up or so is 92 octane ethanol free fuel from Cenex. It's amazing how that ethanol free fuel wakes that engine up. I also add Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant every other fill up.

Due to the Hy-Per Lube ZRA being discontinued and impossible to find, I switched to RedLine 5W30 and plan on sticking with that. So far, so good.

My commute is 22 miles each way, 60% freeway speeds, so no fuel dilution to speak of. The only issue I have ever had was the oil pressure sender quit tripping the oil pressure light and had to be replaced. They bury that thing under the intake manifold, so while that was off, I had the plugs replaced. That was at 92k miles. Tickled pink that my engine warranty was extended by Hyundai to 15/150k just in case.

IMO, regular Gp III oils are no match for some of these GDI engines. They need help like the aforementioned ZRA, or a real synthetic PAO/Ester based oil.

Even as myself being a X-Redline Performance user, why not just buy Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 and save some money? That version still is pao/ester based. If I was back in my day of using boutiques, I would go HPL, as if you buy it in 5 gallon bucket, you save $4 Qt over Redline Performance. And you are "just daily driving" a non tuner car, so your abuse is almost zero. Other then just owning a Hyundai/Kia is Rough Service. Added note, Group 3 Euro A40 cert oils are easily up the challenge for a Hyundai/Kia engines even if thrashed on.