OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
20W would be a 20 Winter grade (which does exist as a monograde). 20 grade or xW-20 would be the correct way to reference the use of a 20 grade while remaining ambiguous on whatever the Winter grade it carries is.
Awaiting new Hyundai Theta II Engine Install
- Thread starter snail415
- Start date
what break-in oil? just a steady diet of brick and mortar oil will do you. I had a 1998 F-150 with a re-built engine the mechanic recommended a 500 mile oil change then afterwards said resume as normal, what is Hyundai recommending? Just follow what Hyundai has listed for this engine is it a 5W-20 or 30? and I would personally use the Hyundai/Kia filters I ran those on my 2008 Sonata they're good, stout filters. most importantly I would try my best to accelerate easily and keep RPM's under 4,000 if you did have to accelerate for a highway merge do this for at least the first one - two oil changes. I stuck with a 4,000-5000 mile oil change back in 2008-2011 until I traded the car in and used a synthetic blend that was then now today the cost difference it doesn't pay not to use synthetic. SuperTech is great oil if that's your choice.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
EL-OH-EL indeed chuckles.
There's a whole post that I wrote on the subject, because it's so commonly misunderstood, that's stickied at the top of the forum:
When you buy a quantity of oil, probably the first thing you look for is the SAE grade. But what do these numbers represent; what do they mean? In this post we will explore the fundamentals of SAE J300, which is the standard under which these grades are defined and often a point of considerable confusion.
At its simplest, a multigrade oil is identified by two numbers:
1. The Winter grade, this is the number BEFORE the W
2. The SAE grade, this is the number AFTER the W
These numbers are not related.
Both numbers (grades) represent clearly defined ranges, outlined as...
At its simplest, a multigrade oil is identified by two numbers:
1. The Winter grade, this is the number BEFORE the W
2. The SAE grade, this is the number AFTER the W
These numbers are not related.
Both numbers (grades) represent clearly defined ranges, outlined as...
Besides being needlessly combative and attempting to drag me, what have you contributed lately?
It's self righteous jerks like you that remind me why I walked away from this forum for so long to start with.EL-OH-EL indeed chuckles.
There's a whole post that I wrote on the subject, because it's so commonly misunderstood, that's stickied at the top of the forum:
When you buy a quantity of oil, probably the first thing you look for is the SAE grade. But what do these numbers represent; what do they mean? In this post we will explore the fundamentals of SAE J300, which is the standard under which these grades are defined and often a point of considerable confusion.
At its simplest, a multigrade oil is identified by two numbers:
1. The Winter grade, this is the number BEFORE the W
2. The SAE grade, this is the number AFTER the W
These numbers are not related.
Both numbers (grades) represent clearly defined ranges, outlined as...
Besides being needlessly combative and attempting to drag me, what have you contributed lately?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
My first reply to you was polite and in no way self-righteous. You made the choice to make this interaction negative.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Exactly. I wrongly conflated KRL with the Kurt Orbahn test the other day, which are two totally different tests used for effectively the same purpose (testing shear stability). I was politely corrected by another member and I thanked them, because that's the reasonable thing to do. I suppose I could have got all haughty and asked him if he was the shear police, but what would that have achieved?
