Yea I don't recall seeing 10w-30. 10w-30 was just too light! I don't recall Ford recommending 20 but I know GM did.
Engine Damage caused from 0W20/5W20?
- Thread starter EyesofThunder
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Y'all got that history backwards. My 1962 Chevrolet manual recommends 10W-30 (including "for sustained high speed driving when the temperature is above 90°F"), but doesn't even mention 10W-40. I doubt it was common yet.
Agree. I don't think a lot of people cared about what was in the manual.
Just as they don't now, except nobody was blaming CAFE regulations for the fact that in the aforementioned 1962 manual, GM recommended 30 only for temperatures above 90°F.
Very Interesting. I am glad to see documentationFrom a 1968 manual:
Courtesy of: http://www.modifiedcadillac.org/documents/1960s/1968/1968 Owner Manual/
I worked in the business from early 70's through the early 80's at a Mobil and at Atlantic Richfield and really don't
recall carrying anything other than 10W30, 10W40, SAE30 But I also don't recall it being "killer" cold out in the Winter back then.
I'll have to look at meteorological history to confirm that weather perception - It may be youth just not being aware of the cold.
- Ken
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Are the 5W,10W,and 20W recommendations mono grades?Very Interesting. I am glad to see documentation
I worked in the business from early 70's through the early 80's at a Mobil and at Atlantic Richfield and really don't
recall carrying anything other than 10W30, 10W40, SAE30 But I also don't recall it being "killer" cold out in the Winter back then.
I'll have to look at meteorological history to confirm that weather perception - It may be youth just not being aware of the cold.
- Ken
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Funny you say that Ken,have you noticed that when we were kids we were indestructible? We could go outside and play in the snow with shorts and a t-shirt and it didn't phase us at all!!
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Even though I'm a thickie,I don't go hog wild on the viscosity. 5W30 was the original spec for the K24 in the TSX,which is the higher performance version of the K24 Accord,and I've always used either 5W30 or 10W30 in mine. I feel a W40 or W50 would be too thick for a 4 cyl engine. So technically I'm still "in spec" with the oil I chose.
Very Interesting. I am glad to see documentation
I worked in the business from early 70's through the early 80's at a Mobil and at Atlantic Richfield and really don't
recall carrying anything other than 10W30, 10W40, SAE30 But I also don't recall it being "killer" cold out in the Winter back then.
I'll have to look at meteorological history to confirm that weather perception - It may be youth just not being aware of the cold.
- Ken
Being young , we could stand up to most anything. As you also suggested, the weather patterns may have been different then. We go through cold periods and warm periods. If I recall correctly there was a doozy of a blizzard back East in the latter 70’s.
I remember a bad Winter in '65 and a real bad Winter in '78 in the Midwest.
I was out in that in 1978 driving around in my friend 1968 MGB convertible with the top down in Andover, Ma.. Then later in the day it got bad and we finally got stuck and we had to walk home. We couldn't find the car the next day, as they were all covered due to heavy drifting. Had to go around with a broom handle and tap for roofs or trunk lids under the snow. The drifts againts the house were one- story high.
If you were on the highway with a long commute - you were toast!
A lot of discussion to this but i am a thin oil guy and my basic explanation about this is:
oil = thick enough to create and hold an hydrofilm. =engine will be fine for the cars life.
oil = not thick enough and rod bearings will touch metal to metal even lightly= engine is gone in a couple of miles.
I dont think that in a combustion motor there is something like the motor being destroyed but it happens slowly.
If something is really wrong it happens in a couple of miles.
Bmw ran 10w60 in their M model 6, v8 and v10s and i dont think there are any cars who suffer as much bearing failures as those do. (even discussions about being too thick and thus causing failures.)
oil = thick enough to create and hold an hydrofilm. =engine will be fine for the cars life.
oil = not thick enough and rod bearings will touch metal to metal even lightly= engine is gone in a couple of miles.
I dont think that in a combustion motor there is something like the motor being destroyed but it happens slowly.
If something is really wrong it happens in a couple of miles.
Bmw ran 10w60 in their M model 6, v8 and v10s and i dont think there are any cars who suffer as much bearing failures as those do. (even discussions about being too thick and thus causing failures.)
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From what I read,those engines were junk and BMW used a W60 to try to mask the defect (read that here on bitog actually).
wemay
Site Donor 2023
No oil can mask a bad design. Not saying that was the case in the referenced post but as a general rule, oil can't fix these issues.