Engine break in.

Dealer told me to run the factory fill until the 5000 mile mark(recomended interval anyway).
To help things along, I added a 'break in additive as soon as I got home from buying.
 
I doubt very many Toyota Corollas get a first oil change at 500 miles and I seriously doubt it would make any difference in a Toyota 4 cylinder in terms of engine life.
Bought a 2003 Corolla brand new. Did oil change per dealership schedule, recall it was north of 7,000 km. Today the car has 285,000 km and has no issue related to thee engine.
 
The ppm of wear metals found in samples taken from the first few thousand miles are never at alarming levels, that's why I don't get overly concerned about early oil changes on newer cars. It is true that the first oil will contain the highest concentration of break-in metals, but the levels are never high enough IMO to justify dropping it at 500 miles. It can't hurt, but don't think it's necessary personally.
 
I like to know my engine has a 20 micron filter for the first OCI since there is a high percentage of metal at an unknown micron cut - so I just change the oil early too …
 
Changed at 450. Went with RP 0w20. Oil had a little bit of fuel smell to it. Checked the rear diff today and the fill plug had a ton of shavings. I'm a believer in early initial changes.
 

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Changed at 450. Went with RP 0w20. Oil had a little bit of fuel smell to it. Checked the rear diff today and the fill plug had a ton of shavings. I'm a believer in early initial changes.
My Dana diffs made glitter for 20k - so just went back to cheap Valvoline until that was over with - followed what CarbonSteel saw with his JLU …
 
Did a 4x4 service on her yesterday. It's amazing that the book says to wait until 15k to do front and rear gears and 60k for t case. When you re gear axles you suppose to change oil after 500 miles to get out the coating and break in metals.

I would not want all that debris lubricating the bearings that long. Noticed all my temps came down 10 to 15 degrees. Royal Purple is good stuff. Truck felt much smoother too And the motor idled a little lower. Even buying higher priced synthetic it's still cheaper than taking to a dealer plus you don't have to worry about the jughead putting in whatever that dealer is using that day.
 

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Did a 4x4 service on her yesterday. It's amazing that the book says to wait until 15k to do front and rear gears and 60k for t case. When you re gear axles you suppose to change oil after 500 miles to get out the coating and break in metals.

I would not want all that debris lubricating the bearings that long. Noticed all my temps came down 10 to 15 degrees. Royal Purple is good stuff. Truck felt much smoother too And the motor idled a little lower. Even buying higher priced synthetic it's still cheaper than taking to a dealer plus you don't have to worry about the jughead putting in whatever that dealer is using that day.
I just used the drain plug - Dana’s make metal for a while …
 
One thing is FCA doesn't know you use red locktite on things you plan never to touch and you don't need a tube per bolt. PSA please use blue Jeep if you are worried about things working lose. Took me a while to clean out bolt holes and bolts. Could not hardly thread out by hand.
 
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Reactions: 4WD
Sometime after 2022 no more drain plugs not sure why. Even my old 08 JKU had plugs.
Would Lubelocker have reusable gaskets ? On my GM’s - have always backed off until they leak and go do something else - never had one leak … poured a cheap quart through as a flush before the synthetic went in …
 
I agree that there is definitely the need to drain an axle due to the break in debris that is inevitable. It’s good folks take the time to do that service. How many on the road now towing, hauling, and generally used as work and utility vehicles that have the factory fill? 98% I’d say….
 
I agree that there is definitely the need to drain an axle due to the break in debris that is inevitable. It’s good folks take the time to do that service. How many on the road now towing, hauling, and generally used as work and utility vehicles that have the factory fill? 98% I’d say….
Absolutely. You might get lucky and never have an issue especially during warranty but if your not trading in within two to three years it's cheap insurance. Rear end rebuilds are 700 to 1000.00 minimum. You'd have to change the oil alot to equal that.
 
In the grand scheme of things changing it early or at the first scheduled interval probably won't change the lifespan of the engine one way or the other. That being said, it always makes me feel good to do an early first oil change. On my Corvette I did the first change at 1100 miles and the oil analysis results came back showing 2% fuel dilution (probably from all the cold starts during shipping) and the oil had thinned out from a 5w30 to a 5w20. So I was glad that I changed it early, even though I was not driving the car too hard at first.
 
Did a 4x4 service on her yesterday. It's amazing that the book says to wait until 15k to do front and rear gears and 60k for t case. When you re gear axles you suppose to change oil after 500 miles to get out the coating and break in metals.

I would not want all that debris lubricating the bearings that long. Noticed all my temps came down 10 to 15 degrees. Royal Purple is good stuff. Truck felt much smoother too And the motor idled a little lower. Even buying higher priced synthetic it's still cheaper than taking to a dealer plus you don't have to worry about the jughead putting in whatever that dealer is using that day.
I waited until 18k for the diffs. I probably should have done it sooner.
 
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