Drive hard, syn or dino?

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On a 5K OCI, if you must use a synthetic, I would use QSUD; there is no reason to go with a more expensive oil for such a short OCI. However, I would want to know if there was fuel dilution happening and would run a UOA or two. If there is fuel dilution, then it would not matter if you are using conventional or synthetic, the only way to solve fuel dilution is to change the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
One big advantage of syn' oils particularly high VI oils is that they are much lighter on start-up and during the warming up period vs mineral oil even in the summer months.
That is the single main reason why I like them. I'm not one for waiting around driving gently for 20 minutes or more until the oil has thinned out sufficiently before using full power and maximum rev's. If you're going to take the engine to maximum rev's the closer the oil's viscosity is to optimum the easier it is on your engine.


The oil viscosity ratings are what count for how thin and at what temperature . Who cares about the VI for these characteristics? And 20 minutes before stepping on the gas?
 
What viscosity ratng are you refering to? The car is spec'd for a 20wt oil. If you don't care about the advantages of a high VI oil that's fine, but the OP would benefit from one with the way he drives. At the very least I think he should try the Toyota 0W-20 at least once and form his own opinion.
 
IMO, the Valvoline 5W20 you're running now is fine for your Accent. It's an economy car with 100HP. Unless you're at a dedicated track, there is nothing you will do on the street, in this car, that necessitates a special oil.

I've towed my Jeep and trailer across the country with 5W20 dino and my Ford did fine. That includes pulling over the Rockies.

My $.02.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
IMO, the Valvoline 5W20 you're running now is fine for your Accent. It's an economy car with 100HP. Unless you're at a dedicated track, there is nothing you will do on the street, in this car, that necessitates a special oil.
I've towed my Jeep and trailer across the country with 5W20 dino and my Ford did fine. That includes pulling over the Rockies.
My $.02.

I agree with particular emphasis on the fact that this is "an economy car will 100HP".
But hey, if he wants to mess around with engine oil (that's why he's a BITOG member) and optimize his viscosity choice for the way he drives, "lots of city driving and short trips", then more power to him.
So yes he would benefit from the ultra light on start-up Toyota 0W-20 as would most economy car owners. The oil's not expensive and is a more efficient engine lube than a 5W-20 dino.
That said, I think it's about the only oil where he may even notice the difference.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I agree with particular emphasis on the fact that this is "an economy car will 100HP".
But hey, if he wants to mess around with engine oil (that's why he's a BITOG member) and optimize his viscosity choice for the way he drives, "lots of city driving and short trips", then more power to him.
So yes he would benefit from the ultra light on start-up Toyota 0W-20 as would most economy car owners. The oil's not expensive and is a more efficient engine lube than a 5W-20 dino.
That said, I think it's about the only oil where he may even notice the difference.


In his application, this seems like an oxymoron. He's not going to use the economy benefits of the 0W20 and I highly doubt we would find any measurable difference in wear between the two.

If he wants to try it, that's cool, I may try it someday in my new 5.0L. I just don't believe he's going to get any extra protection in a stock tuned economy car over a modern 5W20 dino.
 
Well, I think I should look for moly, right? Pennzoil yellow bottle i think would be a great choice. I think it can beat some of the syn on the market, but not sure about this.

Kinda lost in making a choice, wanted to try castrol syntec.
Some people said tahy could feel that extra pep from a syn, true? Dunno? Pyb is worth the price, with oil change every 5k km.
 
wolf_06 you seem to have some sort of adversion to the 0W-20 grade? Why is that?
If you can still get the SM Toyota 0W-20 it contains about 600 ppm of moly, 50% more than PYB. The SN version is lower put is claimed to be the tri-nuclear type of moly so it may be as good.
The Honda 0W-20 contains about 700 ppm of moly but it is more expensive than the Toyota oil at $7.50/L.
 
Originally Posted By: johnachak
Originally Posted By: chiks
Try motorcraft synthetic blend 0w-20


I thought they only made the syn blend in 10w30 and 5w20?


I think it's only full syn in the 0W-20 IIRC. I know they make a full syn 5W-20...
 
I liked the full syn 5w20 but it was expensive and hard to find. I found out (thenks to BITOG) that is is made by Conoco. I use their Kendall full syn now.
 
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