Does Magnatec do what all oils do?

I'd have no problem running SN+ in a tuned eco-boost. The + in SN if for LSPI control, which is what should be used in turboed engines.

Good to know!

I considered his "tuned eco-boost" question above my pay grade and referred him to his owner's manual.

I know enough about oil to be dangerous. lol
Wasn't sure if there is a better ACEA or Ford spec oil for his engine or not.
 
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Good to know!

I considered his "tuned eco-boost" question above my pay grade and referred him to his owner's manual.

I know enough about oil to be dangerous. lol
Wasn't sure if there a better ACEA or Ford spec oil for his engine or not.
He said in post #26: "Yeah I stupidly stocked up on Magnatec in 2019 when I got a new car ..."

Even if the car was bought new in 2019, the OM won't specify SP because SP wasn't even out then ... it probably specifies SN+, or the Motorcraft oil spec that equates to SN+.
 
I’be said it before here but the value for money with magnatec isn’t all that great. A 5 quart jug of the warren clones are 12 to 15 bucks at most and edge vanilla can be found for 22.
*So , what about running 4 qrts. Supertech Synthetic + 1 qrt. Magnatec in a 5 qrt. sump or even up the Magnatec to 2 qrts. and get the best of both worlds ?
 
I would follow the owner's manual recommendation. Is it specifying anything higher that SN+?
I don't think the owner's manual recommends aftermarket tuning so that ship has sailed. But if we ignore that and just look at oil specs...it's still tricky.

Which model year owner's manual for the same engine do you go by?

On the one hand there is the manual for the model year vehicle I own, which is SN+. But the same engine in an older model year is only SN, so SN should be good right? But also, the newest model years, of the same engine, now spec SP.

What does it tell us that the moment SP became officially available, manuals were changed to require SP?
 
He said in post #26: "Yeah I stupidly stocked up on Magnatec in 2019 when I got a new car ..."

Even if the car was bought new in 2019, the OM won't specify SP because SP wasn't even out then ... it probably specifies SN+, or the Motorcraft oil spec that equates to SN+.
The question applies equally to two 'high output' EcoBoost engines, one in a model year 2019 and the other in a model year 2020.

In both cases the manual for my model year specs SN+, as that's all that was available at the time, HOWEVER, the current owner's manual for the exact same engine in the 2021 model year, specs API SP.

And of course SP was pretty much created and tested, seemingly, with heavy Ford involvement and literally EcoBoost test engine(s) for known issues with TGDI engines like the Ecos.


If the owner's manual is gospel, I am supposed to let my OLM run its course to 10,000 mile oil changes on Motorcraft oil and filter...that's what's best for the engine and there's no reason to do anything beyond that...? Yeah I don't think so
 
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The question applies equally to two 'high output' EcoBoost engines, one in a model year 2019 and the other in a model year 2020.

In both cases the manual for my model year specs SN+, as that's all that was available at the time, HOWEVER, the current owner's manual for the exact same engine in the 2021 model year, specs API SP.
That's becaue SP superceded SN+ and was out before the 2021 manual was released ... no other reason. If SP never came out, that same engine in 2021 would specify SN+.
 
That's becaue SP superceded SN+ and was out before the 2021 manual was released ... no other reason. If SP never came out, that same engine in 2021 would specify SN+.
Yes, it would

And if these engines had never come out I'd be happy with our old version that took probably 4 seconds longer to go 0-60, but, thankfully, our products make progress and do the job better...


That's okay, I have a plan. My dad has a 2020 that specs SN Plus that is and will remain stock, whenever it's here I'll put some Magnatec in it (oil pan and/or just put it in the back and when he finds it later be like oh yeah, put that in there next time)
 
Yes, it would

And if these engines had never come out I'd be happy with our old version that took probably 4 seconds longer to go 0-60, but, thankfully, our products make progress and do the job better...

There's always the option of throwing displacement at it. The TRX and Trackhawk are both port injected monsters.
 
I don't think the owner's manual recommends aftermarket tuning so that ship has sailed. But if we ignore that and just look at oil specs...it's still tricky.

Which model year owner's manual for the same engine do you go by?

On the one hand there is the manual for the model year vehicle I own, which is SN+. But the same engine in an older model year is only SN, so SN should be good right? But also, the newest model years, of the same engine, now spec SP.

What does it tell us that the moment SP became officially available, manuals were changed to require SP?

I feel your pain. lol

I have one car that I try to go above and beyond the manufacturer spec and the rest of the cars are treated with "oil is oil " mentality and I experiment with ... well, kind of, as long as the oils are on the better side of oil is oil.
Most likely it's all in my head but I'm aware my OCDs. :unsure:

When in doubt, use thicker oil and change frequently! :)
 
I feel your pain. lol

I have one car that I try to go above and beyond the manufacturer spec and the rest of the cars are treated with "oil is oil " mentality and I experiment with ... well, kind of, as long as the oils are on the better side of oil is oil.
Most likely it's all in my head but I'm aware my OCDs. :unsure:

When in doubt, use thicker oil and change frequently! :)
See now in my OCD-ness I'm also sitting on some Castrol Euro formula A3/B4 0w40 but it's only SN...and I have a 5* tune so technically I have warranty coverage from them (bought their warranty with tune, it was brand new truck) but only if Ford denies factory warranty 'because of the tune', if I were to somehow lose warranty for wrong oil I'd be SOL.

First world OCD problems
 
See now in my OCD-ness I'm also sitting on some Castrol Euro formula A3/B4 0w40 but it's only SN...and I have a 5* tune so technically I have warranty coverage from them (bought their warranty with tune, it was brand new truck) but only if Ford denies factory warranty 'because of the tune', if I were to somehow lose warranty for wrong oil I'd be SOL.

First world OCD problems

I recently got some Castrol Euro 0W40 a3/b4 SN. I would have bought either but store was out of M1 Euro 0W40. Pretty impressive approval list (MB, Porsche, VW, etc.) for the price!

No disrespect to API but when I see ACEA a3/b4 and that approval list, I don't pay attention to anything else.
 
What will be your parameters to determine if Magnatec is better?

Apologies on being late in the responses.

Engine feel, engine responsiveness, noise level.

No scientific testing, if that's what you're getting at...
 
Hi OP, most of your questions have been discussed before over the years, but they would be hard to track down as often the conversation went that way, and it may not be obvious in the thread title. Plus auto spell correct turns the word to “magnetic“, hiding it from Magnatec searches.

Anyway the general consensus is that yes all oil clings to the engine metal surface to some degree, just pull the cover on a junkyard engine that has been sitting for years, and it will be oily.

But where as most other oils do this by the way, it’s often not their primary design job, even in high ester oils like redline, where the oil base may have been selected for cold flow properties and oxidation stability etc.

Magnatec is a Group III synthetic (nothing special there) with a good but fairly standard inorganic add pack (various UOAs & VOAs here), however it does have a small amount of a Group V highly polar organic molecule added to the oil with the primary design purpose of attaching to the metal surface to resist drain down when the engine is off and protect on a cold start, while not interfering with the other oil additives in the execution of their primary duty.

This is probably the difference between Magnatec and other oils, the primary design purpose of the organic add, as opposed to a secondary effect in many (but probably not all) other oils.

Some guesses here, I would suspect that the polar (“intelligent”) molecules in Magnatec may be significantly more viscous than a regular Group V used as a general base in other full synthetic oils. As I suspect that Valvoline has something similar going on, as their UOAs often show a light inorganic add pack, but excellent wear protection results.

A few people here have contacted Castrol directly and asked if they still get the “intelligent” Magnatec molecules if they buy the higher tier Edge product. Castrol always comes back with a solid yes, Edge in a similar grade has all the good Magnatec stuff plus some extra Edge only stuff (their fluid strength technology - whatever that is, it doesn’t generate nearly as many threads).

Bottom line, Magnatec isn’t the “best” oil in the world for every application, but it is probably one of the best bang-for-your-buck oils that most of us can easily find and afford.

I am very happy I was able to come back and check replies..

And you addresses my very next question.. was going to be, "Wait, so an additive can be of a different Base Stock?"


Yes, I have been BLOWN AWAY by the performance of Redline oils (I understand some on here hate that oil as much as Royal Purple. Hey. That's not the purpose of this thread.) And that it was Group V. And that Group V.. clings as well.

I'm thinking about giving it a try.. I WOULD give M1 a try (0W-30) but that's $25... I can get oil in the store for $14.. Magnatec is I think in the middle... cost less than I thought. Closer to the $14 than $25..

My Redline purchases average about $11-$12 a quart, since a part of me just *has* to buck the trend with oil.. cars in the sig, I have liberty on two of them..

So this is excellent info.

Thank you!
 
Thank you!
No worries.
Whether it’s called a base or an add is almost a matter of semantics, what’s really most important is it’s chemistry and how it supports the mechanical engineering of the engine. Yep Group V / esters / polar molecules have certain advantages over PAO and Group III.

If you run the Redline and the Magnatec back to back, please report in as I would be interested to hear your feedback of the two, even a buttdino view of the two.




(BTW, yes I know Group V is all “other stuff” and so it’s not exactly synonymous with esters or polar molecules, but merely includes them as a subset. )
 
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No disrespect to API but when I see ACEA a3/b4 and that approval list, I don't pay attention to anything else.

Same here, ACEA all the way.
I‘m lucky as in Australia we get a full synthetic Magnetic 5W30 which is rated A3/B4. I have some lined up in my stash from when it was on sale.
 
No worries.
Whether it’s called a base or an add is almost a matter of semantics, what’s really most important is it’s chemistry and how it supports the mechanical engineering of the engine. Yep Group V / esters / polar molecules have certain advantages over PAO and Group III.

If you run the Redline and the Magnatec back to back, please report in as I would be interested to hear your feedback of the two, even a buttdino view of the two.




(BTW, yes I know Group V is all “other stuff” and so it’s not exactly synonymous with esters or polar molecules, but merely includes them as a subset. )

Buttdinos are what I have to offer!

AND... dare I say it.. I'd try a 50/50 RL/Magnatec? Or is that a bad idea (do Group Vs mix?)

That car is a science experiment anyways. Got my Fumoto valve coming.. LETS!
 
He said in post #26: "Yeah I stupidly stocked up on Magnatec in 2019 when I got a new car ..."

Even if the car was bought new in 2019, the OM won't specify SP because SP wasn't even out then ... it probably specifies SN+, or the Motorcraft oil spec that equates to SN+.

Drive drive drive 🚗
 
I am very happy I was able to come back and check replies..

And you addresses my very next question.. was going to be, "Wait, so an additive can be of a different Base Stock?"


Yes, I have been BLOWN AWAY by the performance of Redline oils (I understand some on here hate that oil as much as Royal Purple. Hey. That's not the purpose of this thread.) And that it was Group V. And that Group V.. clings as well.

I'm thinking about giving it a try.. I WOULD give M1 a try (0W-30) but that's $25... I can get oil in the store for $14.. Magnatec is I think in the middle... cost less than I thought. Closer to the $14 than $25..

My Redline purchases average about $11-$12 a quart, since a part of me just *has* to buck the trend with oil.. cars in the sig, I have liberty on two of them..

So this is excellent info.

Thank you!
Buttdinos are what I have to offer!

AND... dare I say it.. I'd try a 50/50 RL/Magnatec? Or is that a bad idea (do Group Vs mix?)

That car is a science experiment anyways. Got my Fumoto valve coming.. LETS!

You are doing it again... Getting distracted by all the wild and wonderful wizardry and losing track of the fact that you have far more pressing issues to attend to and limited means with which to do so. Did you manage to source the new air intake tract plumbing per your PM to me about what you had being held together by lipstick and bubble gum?

Listen, I'm all for experiments with expensive boutique products if they are in the budget. When I had that beater Focus I ran Redline 5w-30 in it because I bought all of it when Canadian tire was blowing it out and we wanted to see if it would have any impact on the heavy varnish that engine had. I made a thread on here about it. But that's oil I already had on-hand, I didn't go out and buy $100 worth of oil to put in a $500 car.

Focus man, FOCUS!
 
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