2024 Buick Envista: Best oil for GM 1.2 LIH and Continental Belt In Oil compatibility.

[MSCH]

Or like me they spend money on upgrading the same car and making it better, rather than just buying a new one. My car hasn't stayed the same over the years I have had it. It's evolved, become more powerful, faster, better handling. It has nearly double the stock horsepower. I would like to add a second car, but I wouldn't get rid of the Subaru either, I quite like that car and selling it to someone else it would probably end up in a junkyard within a year, because the new owner lacks the knowledge of what parts were used to replace what, what was custom made or modified, and even what cars the parts came from. I know how everything on that car works, but it's all in my head, there is no manual or parts list. There is no wiring diagram, no written specs for that engine the way it is configured. Essentially I am the manufacturer, the warranty provider, the engineer, the mechanic, and the parts supplier.

I keep em a long time too, but after spending most of my life as a mechanic I've come to acknowledge the idea that " stock is best" is true... now if it was a toy vehicle I might not care if I changed things but if it is a user vehicle I figure the guys at the engineering department know why they did what they did..

 

[79Subaru]

In my case it's a 79 Subaru. Many parts are no longer available but are so similar to other parts that they can be interchanged with little to no modification. Internally the engine is a factory engine, just not one that was intended for street use. It's an EA71S, from an FJ1600 (old Japanese equivalent to a Formula Ford car). Originally I just had to deal with it because it was the only car I had, and didn't have money for a different one. But eventually it became so reliable that I figured I should just keep it. At this point I have put over 180,000 miles on the engine in its current configuration. I have encountered no major issues with the engine or electrical system. The transmission leaks oil but that is typical for that transmission (1972-73ish 1300G dog gear 5 speed). I rarely encounter any issues beyond a minor coolant leak or a wire that popped off of something. Occasionally a set of exhaust gaskets if I run it really hard. It's been driven on the highway for the most part, but also off road (vintage rally racing) and on the track. The engine has run at 6500 RPM nearly continuously for 12 hours, maintaining an oil temp of 130°C. It has also run at a continuous 4000 RPM in very hilly terrain for nearly 3 hours, with the outside temperature being around 106 degrees Fahrenheit. I can get in it in the morning, pump the accelerator pump a couple times, and it starts right up. I don't know too many cars I could do that to. Eventually I will add a second car because I would like to have a lightweight RWD car as well and learn about fuel injection tuning, so I am thinking a Cosworth Vega because it uses standard size injectors and doesn't have ridiculous amounts of emissions equipment. Plus I have experience with the regular 2300 engines and some experience with a carbureted Cosworth in a Chevette. I think that engine really deserves a modern ECU, knock sensor, wideband O2, and coil per cylinder ignition. And you can still find them in fair shape, running and driving for $5000-7000. As in bad interior, crappy paint, but no rust. A genuine Cosworth engine for that price is a steal I think, even with the head gasket issues they have (Not like Cometic can't make a custom MLS one anyway like they did for my friend's 5.7 diesel). But I understand the keeping a car stock, in my situation it wasn't possible at the time, and through luck or skill I ended up with an insanely reliable car that drives great and gets good gas mileage.

 

[hemitom]

Why in God's name would you want to drive anything to 400K, if you have the resources to replace it at 200k

Maybe you should read post #1 again .

 

[JGmazda]

She did get the warranty extension, 100,000 miles, and will probably get to that mileage in 3 years or so, so we will see. I figured that if the engine blows up within warranty, it will get replaced for free, and if it blows up outside of warranty, it looks very easy to change and low mileage 1.2s from crashed Trailblazers are fairly cheap and common even now. Around $1000 is the average price for one without a turbo, $1500-1800 for one with everything included. And the engine looks quite easy to remove and swap. Certainly easier than doing a timing belt or HPFP on her current TDI, of which the timing belt is a $2700 job. So we will see how reliable it ends up being, and if there are problems, we will see if they get fixed. At this point I am more confident than I have been in other GM GDIs like the 1.4 or 1.5T. Just based on design of the parts I can find pictures of, and comparisons to other TGDIs, and the fact that currently used engines are cheap, for a newly released engine, and widely available. That tells me there aren't many failures, because the only ones broken down into parts are from flood cars. Compare that to the 1.0 Ecoboost for example where it is impossible to find a used engine and they are extremely expensive. I will post pictures when the car arrives, probably a few UOAs because this is a new engine design so I am curious, and will post if there are any issues. So far the only widespread issue I have heard about is the Evap purge pump and that may have been fixed at this point. Not a big deal. And it's an issue shared on all of the new CSS architecture GM engines. 1.2, 1.3, 2.0, 2.7. If it breaks it gets replaced under warranty, no big deal. I am recommending that once she is out of warranty she only run premium fuel, and try midgrade or premium if she hears any knocking noises on acceleration. Oil at this point will probably be Mobil 1 EP, I may still try the Ravenol at some point just to see how it works, this engine does like a thinner side 5w30/0w30 from what I have heard, and there are no timing chain wear concerns or shearing from the timing chain. So it might work OK in this engine. But Mobil 1 EP is easy to find, not very expensive, and available at the same stores as the FE12060 filter, so that works out. Easy enough to run an oil analysis and see how it does. The new engine I expect to see problems with is the 1.3 in the Trailblazer. The pistons are a much less robust design than the 1.2 ones. They look like the 1.4 pistons. I think that engine was designed first, and the 1.2 came after. GM also got outside engineering help with the 1.2, not sure about the 1.3. The only thing that worries me about this one really is the timing belt, but if it ends up being problematic it will probably be pretty fast like the PSA engines that had the issues at around 40k miles, and will be replaced under warranty. I seriously doubt it though given this engine is using the expensive German made Continental belt, same as the 3.0 Duramax oil pump belt with an even higher interval. Attached is a picture of the actual replacement belt.View attachment 183899

Thanks for this info and the pic! I look forward to seeing your pictures when you can. I suspect most every manufacturer has engine "issues"... I just get a little queasy with belts in general, especially in high heat areas. I know they are cutting costs. We'll see. Thanks for your posts.

 

[79Subaru]

Here are a couple more pictures of a USED belt that I managed to find. And a comparison picture to a deteriorated Peugeot belt. The GM/Continental belt came out of a 2020 Buick Encore GX by the way, with 35K miles. The Peugeot belt not sure but it is one of the later versions, post 2018, so probably not that much older

So what I notice right away is that GM has been using the same exact belt for the past 3 years in the US, while Peugeot has changed theirs countless times since they came out with their engine in 2012. It also doesn't look very deteriorated in comparison to the deteriorated wet belts I have seen. Maybe this car had all highway miles, but I seriously doubt it with only 35K on a 3, almost 4 year old car. The belt also looks to be made of different material using different construction techniques than the Peugeot/Dayco belt. This is what made me more confident in this belt, the fact that Continental manufactured it. Because think about it, Peugeot 505s and other older French cars from the 1980s have a wet belt for the injection pump or sometimes oil pump. Most belts for those have historically been made by Continental. I've worked on quite a few 505s, I have replaced the fuel pump belts, and I can't say I have ever seen one that was super deteriorated. So the technology has been around for a long time, just that it was in unusual cars most people didn't work on. I hope this belt works out the same way, because if it works well, I don't hate the design, compared to a typical timing belt. A lot more space to work on it, easy to inspect, not much stuff besides the serpentine belt on the front of the engine, and just an overall better design for a transversely mounted engine, as long as it lasts. If there are huge problems with it I wouldn't be surprised if they come out with a chain drive rather than a belt, it's not like much has to be changed for it to be converted. If it lasts well though, I suspect we will see a lot more of these in more and more engines. The advantages over a chain in a GDI are just too big to pass up. Not just cost savings, because the belt isn't that cheap, but elimination of chain wear from soot, compatibility with all viscosities of oil, and ability to use a conventional roller tensioner and idler pulley. I guess we will see, GM is selling so many Trax's that if there is a big issue, we will certainly hear about it. It remains to be seen.

 

[AngryScientist]

Cant say another Made in China buick thrills me though.

Can't say ANY Buick, ever, other than the Grand National ever thrilled me. I'm surprised GM hasnt killed off the brand yet.

 

[JavierH19]

m1 ep non hm would be my guess. It could do 10k intervals but with a dohc turbo engine I'd never try it just to be safe. I do more than 10k with my old non vvt, non afm, non gdi OHV v8's though. 336k on the original internals and it still runs like new. Do spill and fill the trans about every 20k. No need to do multiple spills and filter changes. Just a simple spill every 20k and a filter every 100k. I'm getting ready to do the first spill on my 21's 10 speed.

 

[c502cid]

Can't say ANY Buick, ever, other than the Grand National ever thrilled me. I'm surprised GM hasnt killed off the brand yet.

They didn't kill off the brand because it is a very popular brand in China.

 

[JGmazda]

Outside the mechanical and power train concerns, I've always like Buick's styling. In fact, it is my favorite of the GM bunch.

 

[Corollaman]

I just bought a 2024 Trax with the 1.2, so I'm interested in the subject. I'm planning on 6 month, 5000 miles oil changes.

 

[pbm]

I like the look of the new Envista .
I just don't see 400000k in the future of a 1.2 turbo , keep us posted on how it goes !
i'm curious to see how reliable they are,

I had the 1.4T in my 2011 Chevy Cruze and I think it's related to this 1.2T. My question is why would they make this engine even smaller displacement? Another thing is the MPG isn't that much better than a NA engine of 1.8 or 2.0 especially when it goes into 'boost' which I would assume is very often in a heavier SUV.