Dodge/Chrysler 2.4L engine owners...

[WobblyElvis]

[/quote]
4-cyl engines for all four manufacturers were ALL manufactured at the same Dundee Engine Plant in Dundee, MI by the same employees using the same materials and production machinery (economy of scale), although each of them had some minor "tweaks" that the individual manufacturers required. The plant is now owned exclusively by FCA and all of it's current 4-cyl engine models are manufactured there (Hyundai now manufactures it's engines in Alabama). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dundee_Engine_Plant[/quote]

I just think the above statement is a little misleading.

 

[Skippy722]

Originally Posted by wag123
Your 2.4L aluminum block 4-cyl started life as one of the the joint Chrysler/Mitsubishi/Hyundai-Kia Global Engine Manufacturing Alliance engines. This was originally a Hyundai designed 2,360 cc "Theta/Theta II" engine and has been plagued with early engine failures that continue to this day. Chrysler's newer "Tigershark" version of this engine is closely related and uses what is essentially the same block but has a different head and VVT design. To answer your question, it is not considered to be "robust". It has also been known to have sludge problems if oil change intervals are too long.


Chrysler did not start using WGE until 2005.

 

[dummyoil1]

I would like to thank all of the most resent responders. Doing a bit of research has shown me that my particular (I'm not sure of the manufacturer country) engine is the same engine used up until model year 2010.

A YouTube search hasn't yielded any YouTuber that has rebuilt the same type engine that is used in my 06 dodge stratus sxt. I have seen many youtube vids about the 2.7 dodge engine and it's issues.

I agree with the poster who said it won't win a drag race but it will go the extra mile.

Again, thanks all who have replied.
dummyoil...

 

[StevieC]

Yeah my Journey was gutless. Always a trade-off.

 

[VNTS]

my 2.4 Turbo in my PT GT just turned 175k miles, dynoed it back in the day on a dynojet, put 227whp and 254TQ stock, engine made in Saltillo mexico

 

[DweezilAZ]

The engines built by Hyundai in AL are the ones with the machining problems

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

My Mother has an 02 caravan with a 2.4l only 90k miles, but it didn't receive much in the way of oil changes the first 60k miles. Since I have been doing them its getting oil changes at least every 5k. It had possibly gone 20k to 30k miles and almost 4 or 5 years on mobil1 synthetic/ mobil one filter combo with no ill effects. I had changed it for my parents and I had asked my dad a few time if he had done any oil changes since then, he always told me yes. However I the next time I changed it the oil was filthy looking and it had a very rusty mobil 1 filter on it.

I put plugs and wires on it at around 70k miles/13 years old and they did not look too bad. The wires were fine as well.

It has plenty of power IMHO and is a smooth pleasant sounding engine IMHO.

The timing belt broke due to my late fathers run to failure method of maintenance. Luckily no damage was done and it is still chugging along just fine. IIRC it was about 10 years old with roughly 60k when the belt broke.

The engine is not a piston to valve interference engine, it is however a valve to valve interference engine. Luckily the belt stripped at the crank and the cam timing stayed together.

I love this engine and have driven many cloud cars and neon/cruisers with this engine.

I have a soft spot for it.

 

[StevieC]

That's a different 2.4. The ones we are talking about have timing chains. But your 2.4 was also a good engine. I had that engine in my beater neon and I wasn't easy on it and it laughed at what I put it through with my lead foot. It was standard and a ton of fun to drive.

 

[dummyoil1]

Originally Posted by StevieC
That's a different 2.4. The ones we are talking about have timing chains. But your 2.4 was also a good engine. I had that engine in my beater neon and I wasn't easy on it and it laughed at what I put it through with my lead foot. It was standard and a ton of fun to drive.


Hello StevieC, we're not all talking about the one's with timing chains. My particular dodge 2.4 dohc has a timing belt. The belt and H20 pump were replaced at approx 115,000. I bought my car used and PO was auto rental company per the Carfax. Is my engine also good?

Thank you,
J

 

[StevieC]

Doesn't matter they are both good. Belt or chain. I've worked on both. The belted one was in my Neon and the chain was in my Journey but there is 2 version of the chained one. One is the Multi-Air and one is the non-multi-air as is the one in my Journey.

 

[dummyoil1]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Doesn't matter they are both good. Belt or chain. I've worked on both. The belted one was in my Neon and the chain was in my Journey but there is 2 version of the chained one. One is the Multi-Air and one is the non-multi-air as is the one in my Journey.


Hello StevieC, thanks for clearing this up. On another note, I'm changing plugs and wires and replacing valve cover gasket and spark plug gasket rings on my 2006 stratus. 2 of the spark plugs had oil on the top of them, 1 had oil that went all the way up the plug wire 1/2" (1.27 cm). I'm not a mechanic and would like to take a peek at the timing belt that was replaced 50k+/- miles ago. I do not have many tools. I think I can just remove the top/front timing belt cover. Maybe 2 bolts hold it on. Funny thing, I noticed that the top of the cylinder head has "made in Mexico" stamped on it

J

 

[StevieC]

Yes you can take the top part of the cover off to inspect. Rotate the engine over and check the belt in all areas, specifically the teeth and look for cracking / dryness / fraying.

The belt should be replaced at 60k miles and I would reccomend that but I have seen belts go much longer. I wouldn't do this if you don't need to but I understand finances sometimes get in the way.

It's common to find oil in the spark plug when the seals or old or there is a lot of miles on the engine. These can be replaced when you have the valve covers off.

 

[dummyoil1]

I'd like to be able to rotate the engine over but do not understand/know how to do that without battery and causing fuel to be pumped into dead cylinders. They are "dead" as I have plugs and wires removed

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by dummyoil1
I'd like to be able to rotate the engine over but do not understand/know how to do that without battery and causing fuel to be pumped into dead cylinders. They are "dead" as I have plugs and wires removed

It will spray fuel in the cylinders in that engine so you need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump before hitting the key briefly to turn it over. Or you can use a breaker bar with a socket on the crank pulley and turn it over manually that way. (But you said you didn't have tools)

 

[dummyoil1]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by dummyoil1
I'd like to be able to rotate the engine over but do not understand/know how to do that without battery and causing fuel to be pumped into dead cylinders. They are "dead" as I have plugs and wires removed

It will spray fuel in the cylinders in that engine so you need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump before hitting the key briefly to turn it over. Or you can use a breaker bar with a socket on the crank pulley and turn it over manually that way. (But you said you didn't have tools)



Ahh, ok. I can pull the fuel pump fuse. I don't have many tools but I do have a breaker bar and socket

Thanks much StevieC,
J

 

[StevieC]

PM me if you need any more help, in case I miss it in this thread...