Documenting my experience with ARX(stuck rings?)
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Same as my 325CI. I'd add that other half bottle. I have 2 2/3rd bottles in my same size sump and coming up to 10,500 kms/6.500 miles clean phase and rinse now due.
Definitely sounds like ring cleaning to me.
random thoughts on the subject FWIW: previous owner(s) driveway tuned the motor with a HyperTech, and richened up the mixture = black smoke and contributing to increased ring/cylinder wear.
Trav any easy way to see if the computer is set to anything but stock settings?
Steve
Trav any easy way to see if the computer is set to anything but stock settings?
Steve
Hard to say.Pulling the cover to check the chip would be one way but if it was a software flash done with something like shark injector then usually not without having access to a tool that can read the software version.
One possible give away is the black smoke under WOT.I don't know what year they started with wideband O2 sensors in U.S. models but if it has them then it remains in closed loop under WOT and should not produce WOT black smoke which would be the sign of going rich,OEM generally produce no visible black smoke.This is not applicable to non wideband O2 sensor equipped vehicles.
U.S. version M engines generally produce less HP than Euro versions depending on model and year so there are dozens of chip tuners and software makers selling their wares hoping to entice drivers with getting at the "hidden HP" some work better than others some actually produce less than stock.
Turner Motorsport in MA has all the info and go faster BMW parts including scales and dyno for chassis tuning.
One possible give away is the black smoke under WOT.I don't know what year they started with wideband O2 sensors in U.S. models but if it has them then it remains in closed loop under WOT and should not produce WOT black smoke which would be the sign of going rich,OEM generally produce no visible black smoke.This is not applicable to non wideband O2 sensor equipped vehicles.
U.S. version M engines generally produce less HP than Euro versions depending on model and year so there are dozens of chip tuners and software makers selling their wares hoping to entice drivers with getting at the "hidden HP" some work better than others some actually produce less than stock.
Turner Motorsport in MA has all the info and go faster BMW parts including scales and dyno for chassis tuning.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Hard to say.Pulling the cover to check the chip would be one way but if it was a software flash done with something like shark injector then usually not without having access to a tool that can read the software version.
One possible give away is the black smoke under WOT.I don't know what year they started with wideband O2 sensors in U.S. models but if it has them then it remains in closed loop under WOT and should not produce WOT black smoke which would be the sign of going rich,OEM generally produce no visible black smoke.This is not applicable to non wideband O2 sensor equipped vehicles.
U.S. version M engines generally produce less HP than Euro versions depending on model and year so there are dozens of chip tuners and software makers selling their wares hoping to entice drivers with getting at the "hidden HP" some work better than others some actually produce less than stock.
Turner Motorsport in MA has all the info and go faster BMW parts including scales and dyno for chassis tuning.
This is an interesting theory. I don't know about the wideband o2 sensors for this car, but I'll try redlining it today and see where the redline is at. If its above stock levels, then that would be indicative of the shark injector's software being present. AFAIK, there really isn't any other way to "chip" an obdII m3. In the case of my model year, there were significant differences between the US and Euro model cars that no chip could hope to get near, just like no magic in a can is going to fix worn rings
One theory my mechanic suggested was that the motor was overheated, thoughts?
Hard to say.Pulling the cover to check the chip would be one way but if it was a software flash done with something like shark injector then usually not without having access to a tool that can read the software version.
One possible give away is the black smoke under WOT.I don't know what year they started with wideband O2 sensors in U.S. models but if it has them then it remains in closed loop under WOT and should not produce WOT black smoke which would be the sign of going rich,OEM generally produce no visible black smoke.This is not applicable to non wideband O2 sensor equipped vehicles.
U.S. version M engines generally produce less HP than Euro versions depending on model and year so there are dozens of chip tuners and software makers selling their wares hoping to entice drivers with getting at the "hidden HP" some work better than others some actually produce less than stock.
Turner Motorsport in MA has all the info and go faster BMW parts including scales and dyno for chassis tuning.
This is an interesting theory. I don't know about the wideband o2 sensors for this car, but I'll try redlining it today and see where the redline is at. If its above stock levels, then that would be indicative of the shark injector's software being present. AFAIK, there really isn't any other way to "chip" an obdII m3. In the case of my model year, there were significant differences between the US and Euro model cars that no chip could hope to get near, just like no magic in a can is going to fix worn rings
One theory my mechanic suggested was that the motor was overheated, thoughts?
More o'heated BMW engines then you could imagine due to expansion tank failure, but I thought M3's had a different cooling system design?
I think on the U.S. 97 M model year a software flash was the only way to change any of the ECM parameters. The wide band O2 can be identified with its 5 wire connector.
As you point out the difference between Euro and U.S. engines is a lot more than the ECM but many companies prey on the unknowing selling them on there is additional HP to be had by just changing the ECM parameters at no cost to engine reliability.
I remember rear cyl overheating issues on the Euro 6cyl cars in the 90’s.On 6cyl engines we looked down #5 and 6 looking for damaged walls as this was a common sign of prior overheating. Many of these issues were caused by improper bleeding, small bore return line blockage to the expansion tank on non self bleeding tanks, clutch /electric fan problems (type depending on model), the usual culprits, hoses, belt etc.
As you point out the difference between Euro and U.S. engines is a lot more than the ECM but many companies prey on the unknowing selling them on there is additional HP to be had by just changing the ECM parameters at no cost to engine reliability.
I remember rear cyl overheating issues on the Euro 6cyl cars in the 90’s.On 6cyl engines we looked down #5 and 6 looking for damaged walls as this was a common sign of prior overheating. Many of these issues were caused by improper bleeding, small bore return line blockage to the expansion tank on non self bleeding tanks, clutch /electric fan problems (type depending on model), the usual culprits, hoses, belt etc.
Lack of basic maintenance really. Yes I spend way to much time on BMW forums around the world, good for info though.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I think on the U.S. 97 M model year a software flash was the only way to change any of the ECM parameters. The wide band O2 can be identified with its 5 wire connector.
As you point out the difference between Euro and U.S. engines is a lot more than the ECM but many companies prey on the unknowing selling them on there is additional HP to be had by just changing the ECM parameters at no cost to engine reliability.
I remember rear cyl overheating issues on the Euro 6cyl cars in the 90’s.On 6cyl engines we looked down #5 and 6 looking for damaged walls as this was a common sign of prior overheating. Many of these issues were caused by improper bleeding, small bore return line blockage to the expansion tank on non self bleeding tanks, clutch /electric fan problems (type depending on model), the usual culprits, hoses, belt etc.
It was the frontmost cylinder that overheated. Not sure what the specific situation might have been, but the E36 M3 had a plastic radiator neck that was known for breaking. I saw some labels on the current radiator stating it was made in '06, so its possible that that was when the motor was overheated, not positive here. Next two tanks of gas I got 20mpg each, no substantial improvement yet, and still getting all the old symptoms. Given the situation, I don't really suppose I could have expected auto-rx to do much, but it was worth a shot, I'll keep my eye on it.
BTW, ran the car to redline and it still has its factory 6700 redline, so I doubt the car was shark injected.
I think on the U.S. 97 M model year a software flash was the only way to change any of the ECM parameters. The wide band O2 can be identified with its 5 wire connector.
As you point out the difference between Euro and U.S. engines is a lot more than the ECM but many companies prey on the unknowing selling them on there is additional HP to be had by just changing the ECM parameters at no cost to engine reliability.
I remember rear cyl overheating issues on the Euro 6cyl cars in the 90’s.On 6cyl engines we looked down #5 and 6 looking for damaged walls as this was a common sign of prior overheating. Many of these issues were caused by improper bleeding, small bore return line blockage to the expansion tank on non self bleeding tanks, clutch /electric fan problems (type depending on model), the usual culprits, hoses, belt etc.
It was the frontmost cylinder that overheated. Not sure what the specific situation might have been, but the E36 M3 had a plastic radiator neck that was known for breaking. I saw some labels on the current radiator stating it was made in '06, so its possible that that was when the motor was overheated, not positive here. Next two tanks of gas I got 20mpg each, no substantial improvement yet, and still getting all the old symptoms. Given the situation, I don't really suppose I could have expected auto-rx to do much, but it was worth a shot, I'll keep my eye on it.
BTW, ran the car to redline and it still has its factory 6700 redline, so I doubt the car was shark injected.
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When you finish all this up, you might consider a day or two long piston soak with one of the strong solvents such as b-12 or seafoam. There is a chance that they may be able to unstick things. What's it going to hurt, right?
2,500 miles isn't following instructions and is about half what it should be. your money I guess.
I'm going to do something pretty rare and agree with sprintman here. If you hope to see any results at all you have to run it the recommended distance in the instructions at absolute minimum. Preferably more. It's your money, you might as well at least give it a chance.
If you want auto-rx to work you are going to have to run it at least 5000 miles, the reason is that the Application Instructions seem to change over time. Back in the day it was 500 miles for the Clean Phase, then 1000 miles, then 1500 miles, and now it is 2500 miles for the Clean Phase during the Basic Application Instructions.
I did the Powersteering Application which calls for putting in about 2 ounces of arx and driving 1000 miles, it did some cleaning, so I did another Application and ran it another 1000 miles and then changed the fluid, not much cleaning and my powersteering still made some noises. I finally decided to do another Powersteering Application and I kept the arx in there for a year, and I racked up 12,000 miles. The powersteering fluid came out very dark, I added new powersteering fluid and now my Powersteering Pump works effortesly and does not make any more noises.
I would recommend just changing your oil filter and topping up on the oil and run another 2500 miles.
I did the Powersteering Application which calls for putting in about 2 ounces of arx and driving 1000 miles, it did some cleaning, so I did another Application and ran it another 1000 miles and then changed the fluid, not much cleaning and my powersteering still made some noises. I finally decided to do another Powersteering Application and I kept the arx in there for a year, and I racked up 12,000 miles. The powersteering fluid came out very dark, I added new powersteering fluid and now my Powersteering Pump works effortesly and does not make any more noises.
I would recommend just changing your oil filter and topping up on the oil and run another 2500 miles.
Originally Posted By: c3po
I would recommend just changing your oil filter and topping up on the oil and run another 2500 miles.
And use SuperTech. This seems to be Key in letting Auto Rx work.
5000 mile OCI should be fine for it too.
I would recommend just changing your oil filter and topping up on the oil and run another 2500 miles.
And use SuperTech. This seems to be Key in letting Auto Rx work.
5000 mile OCI should be fine for it too.
Any ester free oil.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
When you finish all this up, you might consider a day or two long piston soak with one of the strong solvents such as b-12 or seafoam. There is a chance that they may be able to unstick things. What's it going to hurt, right?
Please elaborate on this...are you suggesting to pour sea foam down the spark plug holes?
When you finish all this up, you might consider a day or two long piston soak with one of the strong solvents such as b-12 or seafoam. There is a chance that they may be able to unstick things. What's it going to hurt, right?
Please elaborate on this...are you suggesting to pour sea foam down the spark plug holes?
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