My F150 owners manual doesn't even specify a change requirement.If rear diffs didn´t need to be changed, then they would all be advertising lifetime oil in rear diffs.
My F150 owners manual doesn't even specify a change requirement.If rear diffs didn´t need to be changed, then they would all be advertising lifetime oil in rear diffs.
Only my Jeep - but I find the GM gaskets good enough to back off bolts until they leak - then go gather oil - once nearly drained - give it a couple ounces of new oil to flush the bottom - torque and fill …You guys with drain plugs make me jealous![]()
My 2017 Nissan Titan says “inspect” the differential, but change every 20k miles if towing a trailer or driving in dusty areas. Out of curiosity I checked the manual for my dad’s 98 Chevy and it said for a locking diff change it at the first oil change and then every 15k miles. I’m 99% certain that wasn’t done.
Is any Chevy driver actually changing their differential oil every 15k miles? I guess it’s time for me to start. Of course the rear locker on this truck doesn’t have a drain so I guess I’ll be sucking it out or buying a new gasket.
My Canyon has to be on a lift for me to get to the fill plug. GM offered a couple different pumpkins on these & I got one that is a complete PITA with the fill plug too high & tucked up out of the way to get to until on a lift. I know I should be thinking if it's already on a lift just take the time to pull the rear cover & clean it correctly but I'd really like to be lazy on occasion with a drain plug lol. If I'm breaking the seal on the rear cover, I don't want to take the chance on the darn thing leaking when zipping it back together. If the fill plug was in a better place I'd try to use my vacuum pump to suck it out warm & just refill. Grrr.Only my Jeep - but I find the GM gaskets good enough to back off bolts until they leak - then go gather oil - once nearly drained - give it a couple ounces of new oil to flush the bottom - torque and fill …
(clean the magnet on fill plug removed at the start) …
If you’re rarely towing, why use the SVG?I use Amsoil SVG and assume that gear oil will handle anything I can throw at if. But my pickup rarely tows a trailer.
Same. Use Amsoil SVG 75/90 in both the Canyon & Bronco.I use Amsoil SVG and assume that gear oil will handle anything I can throw at if. But my pickup rarely tows a trailer.
The number of QT in the differential is only a few, changed not very often so the extra cost is negligible.If you’re rarely towing, why use the SVG?
I see.The number of QT in the differential is only a few, changed not very often so the extra cost is negligible.
My feeling is if you go to the hassle of getting Amsoil products why not get the best ones.
I buy their SVG gear oil and their best ATF.
This is reality. They aren’t a complex item. Though some can get whiny I suspect due to insufficient maintenance.Most differentials never get their oil changed and go to the junkyard on their factory fill![]()
That’s just it. It’s not motor oil, no exposure to fuel or combustion byproducts, or severely oxidizing conditions. It can oxidize, can gain moisture, can disperse metal particulates, etc.Diff fluid on its own will likely last forever, but the fluid will get fully of micro metal particles that can only be removed if drained. IMHO.
I'd guess the lack of gear oil will be the COD of that rear. The rear pumpkin cover is probably rusted paper thin with pinholes.I hadn’t been under the rear end of the Chevy in a year or so. Somehow I don’t think differential lubricant is the likely failure point of this vehicle.
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If rear diffs didn´t need to be changed, then they would all be advertising lifetime oil in rear diffs.
I think those spring mounts will probably snap off first. This truck gets driven mostly off-road now.I'd guess the lack of gear oil will be the COD of that rear. The rear pumpkin cover is probably rusted paper thin with pinholes.
I agree the lubrication of the differential is much less demanding than motor oil on an engine but I have seen the gear oil come out pretty black looking from the rear differential case.This is reality. They aren’t a complex item. Though some can get whiny I suspect due to insufficient maintenance.
That’s just it. It’s not motor oil, no exposure to fuel or combustion byproducts, or severely oxidizing conditions. It can oxidize, can gain moisture, can disperse metal particulates, etc.
Old high mileage doffs will get a nice coating of gunk on the outsides. This likely also affects heat transfer. Here’s a Dodge Ram Dana 70 with 445k.
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Absolutely. And murky from the front one if it doesn’t get hot enough often enough.I agree the lubrication of the differential is much less demanding than motor oil on an engine but I have seen the gear oil come out pretty black looking from the rear differential case.
I hadn’t been under the rear end of the Chevy in a year or so. Somehow I don’t think differential lubricant is the likely failure point of this vehicle.
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